Electric issue with chest freezer

[Hiphop]

Hey all, I came across a small issue while turning my chest freezer into a keezer. I current have an older stand up fridge that I turned into a kegerator this past year. I quickly found out that the stand up freezer only fits four kegs which is not enough space for how much I brew so I bought a 15 cubic ft chest freezer on Craigslist. The issue that I have is I plugged it in and you could here it turn on and start to run. After about 5-10 seconds it sounds like a switch flips in the freezer. Almost like it popped a breaker. I went throughout my entire garage and unplugged literally everything but the freezer and tried again. Same thing. I currently have it plugged into a Temp controller that I had for my kegerator set for around 40F. I’m not an electrician so I don’t know know enough about standards for garage outlets. The freezer says 115volt on the label. Any thoughts on a fix for this?

 

[Vale71]

Sounds like a defective thermostat. Since you bought it new I'd just return it and get a replacement.

Edit: Sorry, missed the Craigslist reference. Looks like the freezer wasn't worth what you paid for it.

 

[tll77]

I would look at the thermal overload protector.
Try plugging it in without the temp controller. does the same thing happen?
The thermal overload protector is mounted on top of the compressor and will open if the compressor gets too hot.
it should look something like this

The overload protector could be bad and replacing it is an easy fix.
It could be low or out of refrigerant which would cause the compressor to get too hot also.
Do you have a multimeter?

 

[Hiphop]

I unplugged it from the temp controller and tried again straight from the wall. Same thing. Click on. 5 seconds then click off like it popping a breaker. I have a multimeter. Attached is photos of the compressor unit/everything in the compartment. How would I check refrigerant to see if it’s low? Thank you soooooo much for your help!

 

[tll77]

i would lok in that green box for the thermal overload
unfortunately unless you are an hvac tech(likely not if you're asking), you won't be able to test the charge or recharge the refrigerant. I hope you didn't pay too much for it.

safety first!

Unplug the unit from the wall, open the green box to find the overload. if you have a way to warm the sensor without burning it, it should remain closed until about 130ish fahrenheit, where it will open the circuit. If it is opening below this temp replace it, if it is opening at the proper temp, it is doing its job and the problem is for a professional.

 

[Hiphop]

i would lok in that green box for the thermal overload
unfortunately unless you are an hvac tech(likely not if you're asking), you won't be able to test the charge or recharge the refrigerant. I hope you didn't pay too much for it.

safety first!

Unplug the unit from the wall, open the green box to find the overload. if you have a way to warm the sensor without burning it, it should remain closed until about 130ish fahrenheit, where it will open the circuit. If it is opening below this temp replace it, if it is opening at the proper temp, it is doing its job and the problem is for a professional.

i would lok in that green box for the thermal overload
unfortunately unless you are an hvac tech(likely not if you're asking), you won't be able to test the charge or recharge the refrigerant. I hope you didn't pay too much for it.

safety first!

Unplug the unit from the wall, open the green box to find the overload. if you have a way to warm the sensor without burning it, it should remain closed until about 130ish fahrenheit, where it will open the circuit. If it is opening below this temp replace it, if it is opening at the proper temp, it is doing its job and the problem is for a professional.

So doing some research I see how to take out and replace the thermal overload relay. I took apart the green box and sure enough there was the same black piece you said was there. Online they look cheap enough just to replace. The question I have is how do I know which one to get? 1/4hp, 1/2hp, 1hp, etc? Also another piece right next to it came out. Do you know what it is and how to replace it?

 

[tll77]

that seems to be your motor start relay, but it doesn't appear to be complete. the rest of it is likely still in that little green box.

 

[Hiphop]

Have any of you used a 3 n’ 1 start kit? It looks like it’s the motor start relay and overload. From what the moderate amount of research I have done on this issue and you guys response this sounds like the first cheapest spot to check/repair. I bought one yesterday and it should arrive tomorrow. I didn’t know of any of you guys have ever heard of or used this but I’m gonna give it a try and see what happens.

 

[Hiphop]

IT WORKS!!!! I know it’s only a temporary fix, people online say the part lasts like 2-3 years max which I am hoping to extend by a few years by using a temperature controller but still a $7-10 fix vs buying a new fridge! The part was stupid easy to assemble. I can’t thank you all for all your help and advice! I can’t wait to start building my keezer!!!

 

[day_trippr]

That's awesome, kudos for sticking with it and not just parking it on the curb

Cheers!

 

[tll77]

That fantastic!
Make sure the temp controller you use has some sort of short cycle protection.

 

[Hiphop]

That fantastic!
Make sure the temp controller you use has some sort of short cycle protection.

So when you say short cycle protection, I understand the concept but don’t know what controller to use for it. I have the standard inkbird controller and have it set with a +-2 degree differential. After pretty much sitting and watching it for 24 hours the freezer keeps its temp very very very well. In 24 hr the compressor has only kicked on once. Ran for 5 min and turned off. The temp has stayed within range for the entire time a little on the low end because how powerful the freezer is and no heat sorce inside the fridge. I might add a small heat cable taped to the interior of the bottom of the freezer to help add some heat just incase it gets to cold for some reason. Is there anything else I can do?

 

[tll77]

Inkbird has built in short cycle protection. Set the time differential for an appropriate time, usually around ten minutes or so. If your unit reaches temperature differential before the time has elapsed it will hold the compressor off until it times out.