Electric brewing without a 220 line

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McCuckerson

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You will need 20amp circuits for those as you are drawing >16amps. Also scorching is a real thing. Its hard to find lwd 120v elements. It will however boil 7gal with ease and you don't have to throttle back at all.
 
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FalkyBrew

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how do I find out if that is low density? Do you think I'll need two or is one enough until I move to 10 gal?
 

McCuckerson

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how do I find out if that is low density? Do you think I'll need two or is one enough until I move to 10 gal?
Its HWD, look at the watts per inch. This one is 154W/in that makes it high watt density, low watt density or LWD should be 80 - 100ish, while ULWD should be about 50-60w/in. Chance of scorching increases with as watt density increases. If you do a lot of 1.050 and under beers you will prolly be ok. Mine scortched with a big beer 1.080.

2 elements would be good, just turn one off when you acheive boil. 1 will work however. It just takes a bit longer to get to boil temps.
 
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FalkyBrew

FalkyBrew

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Its HWD, look at the watts per inch. This one is 154W/in that makes it high watt density, low watt density or LWD should be 80 - 100ish, while ULWD should be about 50-60w/in. Chance of scorching increases with as watt density increases. If you do a lot of 1.050 and under beers you will prolly be ok. Mine scortched with a big beer 1.080.
Good to know thank you.
 

MonkeyWrench

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If your kettle is big enough, you can install 2 4500w elements and run them on 120. With 2 elements, you can run each off of a different standard outlet (on a different circuit). A 4500w element run on 120v runs at 1125w, so together they are 2250w. You can also go with 5500w elements giving 1375w each.

The 4500w HWD elements are only $6.73 each HERE and LWD are $10.32.

Also I should say, when you run a 240v HWD element, it becomes a ULWD element. Look at the 4500w element, it's 13.5" total length, so probably somewhere around 26" of element giving about 43w per inch.
 

Palefire

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Here's a LWD 120V 2000W Element: Rheem SP10868GL 120V 2000W Stainless Steel Element. I just installed this and used it a few days ago. Used it to replace an HD element that had popped (was doing recirculating BIAB, and as far as I can tell, a pocket of air got created below the bag, so the element popped).

I use 2 120V circuits for my 5-gallon rig. One 1500W element and one 2000W element in the kettle. I have no trouble boiling. When I figure out what to ferment in, I'm planning on moving to 7.5 gallon batches.

Before the HD element popped, though, I'd done about 5 batches with it, with no scorching whatsoever. The 1500W element is still HD.
 

jabumbo

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So this might not be the best thread for this, but...

I am looking at using a similar element (120V - 2000W) for my new setup. But I am at a loss for finding some sort of controller for this. I just want a simple device to shut off my element once the water gets to its desired temp. I'd prefer to not pay $90 for something that does a lot more than what i need!
 

thorongil

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I've been boiling ~5 gal with the HD 2000W element for a couple years now and have had no issues with scorching, even with big beers...
 

stlbeer

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So this might not be the best thread for this, but...

I am looking at using a similar element (120V - 2000W) for my new setup. But I am at a loss for finding some sort of controller for this. I just want a simple device to shut off my element once the water gets to its desired temp. I'd prefer to not pay $90 for something that does a lot more than what i need!
So what are you proposing? A PID costs $40-45. Add an SSR for $9-15. You'll need something to measure the temperature of your mash. Thermocouples are pretty cheap. Then a box to put it all in.

Search around for toolbox controllers. You could probably do it for less than $90, but you'll be hard pressed for that.
 

Palefire

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So this might not be the best thread for this, but...

I am looking at using a similar element (120V - 2000W) for my new setup. But I am at a loss for finding some sort of controller for this. I just want a simple device to shut off my element once the water gets to its desired temp. I'd prefer to not pay $90 for something that does a lot more than what i need!
Or just build a heatstick, and unplug it when the water gets to the temp you want.
 

seatbelt123

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thorongil said:
I've been boiling ~5 gal with the HD 2000W element for a couple years now and have had no issues with scorching, even with big beers...
Which element are you using? I want to install two on my bk but am worried about scorching. Thanks!
 

bigdongsr94

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Just posted in the other thread, might as well drop it here too. $11 120vac Home depot elements work fine. I use two for a good boil but some people don't. Scorching is pretty much busted, I did once dumping DME in, not stirring, and had heaters on. Turned them black but beer was fine.
 

McCuckerson

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... Scorching is pretty much busted....
SOooo not true! I fryed 2 batches of big beer with 120V, 2kW elements. Historically known as my "ashtray ale" I used to think it was an urban legend until I dumped 10 gallons total down my driveway:(
 

McCuckerson

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What? Why? What's creepy about a cub scout? I was a scout all through grade school. My son is a Tiger this year and I'm a den leader. I don't get it....
I'm sorry, I didn't realize it was a Cub Scout. I just thought it was a characature. I didn't mean to offend you or the scouts:eek:
 

thughes

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SOooo not true! I fryed 2 batches of big beer with 120V, 2kW elements. Historically known as my "ashtray ale" I used to think it was an urban legend until I dumped 10 gallons total down my driveway:(
Yes. Apparently I allowed a build up of grunge on the element (Camco 5500W Incoloy ULWD) in my brew kettle. Just dumped 5 gal Baltic Porter and 5 gal Orange Hefe because they both tasted like ass-tray. :(

Had to remove the element and scrape the layer of black crusty shlt off it, finished up with scotchbrite pad. (Note to self: always scrub the heating element after every brew session.)
 

bigdongsr94

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Mccuck, I have not scorched or created ashtray ales. My HD 2k 120 elements cause no problems. Seems strange your 120 is greater than mine?
 

bigdongsr94

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Must just be in how big your beers are. Watch, now I will run into the problem. I have done 1.080s tho except they were extract.
 

birvine

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Last night I installed the second element into my turkey fryer. Now I have a 1.5kw element and a 2kw element. I tested last night and it took just under an hour to bring to a boil. One element kept a slight boil; both was too much. With a controller or a manual off-on switch you can do it.

B
 

McCuckerson

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bigdongsr94 said:
Mccuck, I have not scorched or created ashtray ales. My HD 2k 120 elements cause no problems. Seems strange your 120 is greater than mine?
Must be genetics:)... Kjarp has a thread around here about scorching with his CT Brutus 20. I think a lot of it is due to cleaning. Just clean it real good between each use. Its just beer.
 

Disintegr8or

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Last night I installed the second element into my turkey fryer. Now I have a 1.5kw element and a 2kw element. I tested last night and it took just under an hour to bring to a boil. One element kept a slight boil; both was too much. With a controller or a manual off-on switch you can do it.

B
I'm running (2) Low Density 1,650's in my 11 gal kettle, and that has been the perfect amount of power. I boil off exactly 1 gallon an hour wide open.

Element: Water Heater Element - Water Heater Elements - Water Heaters - 2E754 : Grainger Industrial Supply
 

seatbelt123

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seatbelt123

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Disintegr8or said:
I can get 7 gallons to 160 in 28 minutes and rolling boil in 53 (from start, 25 from 160deg).
There is a writeup at the link in my sig. :D
Wow. That's faster than I expected. And no "scorching"?
 

Disintegr8or

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Wow. That's faster than I expected. And no "scorching"?
None so far.

Now the first brew in it was an extract IPA. What I did was heat up enough boil volume water to 150. Once it reached 150 I put the cleaned and sanitized gallon jug into my old 5 gallon kettle and added enough water to cover the extract and let that sit for 10-15 minutes. Once the extract was warmed up I dumped it into the 5 gallon kettle to mix it around, then dumped that into my now boiling brew kettle. I did this because I figured I'd have a hard time trying to mix extract in the brew kettle with the elements in there and might possibly have some extract sticking to the element(s) and scorching. Worked like a charm.

I brewed the Hefeweizen last weekend and during my tasting I haven't tasted any scorching in that either.

I am doing a cream ale for some BMC friends at the end of the month, so if I do have any issues with scorching I'll know on that batch.

I do a 1 hour, 150 degree Oxyclean soak on the kettle after brewing to get to all of the remnants as well.
 

Dgonza9

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I've been boiling ~5 gal with the HD 2000W element for a couple years now and have had no issues with scorching, even with big beers...
Just thought I'd add my experiences. I'm boiling 10 gallons with two of these HD 2000w elements in the keggle. No problems scortching, either.

Prior to mounting the elements, I sometimes used 3 2000w elements in there on heat sticks. I had a batch that I miscalculated the boil off ration on and so I wanted to boil off faster so as not to change the length of the boil.

No scortching problems for me.
 
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