Electric Brewing Basics

[Liveforliving]

After fighting for smart ways to use propane inside the house, I finally learned that I'm not going to be able to pull it off (smartly). However, I've learned the joys and wonders of electric brewing.

So, to start using electric, I need to buy an element. Currently I'm brewing 5 gallon batches. Can I buy a 5500 element, or is that too big? I'm hoping as I grow to bigger batches, the elements can move with me.

Does anyone recommend a certain element? I read a lot from theelectricbrewing.com, ebrewsupply.com, and highgravitybrew.com- boilcoil. Is there a top brand or website?

And if I understand right, all I need to do is install the element and plug it in (might need to install a 240v outlet)? And it's easy to upgrade the system as I go? No more gas. Almost sounds too perfect to be true!

 

[jwalkermed]

Don't think anyone here would tell you to plug your element in the wall. You need to control it somehow either a simple potientiometer setup (http://stilldragon.com/index.php/diy-controller-kit.html) or PID if you want to get fancy. PID probably over the top if you don't recirculate during the mash.

As for brand, I think most use the camco 5500W.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Two things:
1. Where is your GFCI protection?
2. Sure you can plug it into the wall, but you're going to spend a lot of time plugging and unpluging to reach temp and maintain the right boil. Better to have some kind of controller even if it's only a properly rated switch. PWM or PID is really the way to go to get the most out of e-brewing.

Figure out how you want to brew, then read a lot of this forum. Whatever you come up with somebody on here has probably done it already.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

A 5500W element needs more than just 240V, it needs (at lest) a 23Amp circuit/plug.

You don't need to control the element to maintain a boil. I originally boiled 7 gallon batches in a keggle using 2x2.5Kw elements, which was a vigorous boil, but no boilovers. I now use a single 3.5Kw element in the same keggle with a bit of insulation (foil bubble stuff) which maintains a nice, steady boil. I single 2.5Kw element maintained a weak boil without insulation. It is all actually quite forgiving.

A 5.5Kw element will almost definitely boil over 5 gallon batches though, so you would need to control it in some way (eg. PID with manual setting).

 

[Liveforliving]

Thanks for all the feedback.
We'll be brewing inside my basement, which is currently unfinished. I'll be able to install a 30amp GFCI Breaker into my panel specifically for the elements. If I understand right, that should protect us from any dangerous issues.
As far as the control goes, it sounds like I'll start with a potentiometer and later upgrade to a PID.
Costs are building up faster than I thought they would. Sounds like it will be worth it.

 

[Fenduh]

I just converted to electric in my basement myself. I'm using the Camco 4500 watt element in a 8 gallon Bayou Classic. The majority of my brews are 3 gallons but I can do 5 gallons.

Anyhoo...here is what I use to control my heating element.... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFEA5AE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Here it is mounted in a box and it works great! Inexpensive and it doesn't generate much heat which a triac can do.


I have not actually tested the output with a meter to see how accurate the reading is but I get a great rolling boil of 5 gallons at only "18%" power.

 

[Liveforliving]

Very Cool! How are you doing ventilation in the basement? Also, did you buy a kit for your element, or did you use a design and build it from scratch?

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Anyhoo...here is what I use to control my heating element.... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFEA5AE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Here it is mounted in a box and it works great! Inexpensive and it doesn't generate much heat which a triac can do.

I am very curious about this. Was the wiring straight forward?

I have so wanted to go to basement brewing in the winter but I have no interest in a fully automated, fancy control panel. I already have a redneck eHLT that is controlled with light switch...so, yes I know what I am getting into.

Per the spec's this, this should be plenty to run a 5500W element for my 10 gallon brews.

Other that a proper GFCI and correct cabling...anything else I should worry about.

 

[theck]

I just converted to electric in my basement myself. I'm using the Camco 4500 watt element in a 8 gallon Bayou Classic. The majority of my brews are 3 gallons but I can do 5 gallons.

Anyhoo...here is what I use to control my heating element.... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFEA5AE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Here it is mounted in a box and it works great! Inexpensive and it doesn't generate much heat which a triac can do.


I have not actually tested the output with a meter to see how accurate the reading is but I get a great rolling boil of 5 gallons at only "18%" power.

Where did you get the plans for the build? Where do you set the %?
Edit...
Oh I see you put it in the screen. Wondering if it's possible to wire this up with a dryer 4 prong cable to connect into the existing outlet and gfci in the main box?

 

[Brumateur]

I have not actually tested the output with a meter to see how accurate the reading is but I get a great rolling boil of 5 gallons at only "18%" power.

This controller is great but it designed for 50Hz AC current. On 60Hz (as in US and Canada) it gives absolutely inconsistent output.

 

[theck]

Is there anything better? I like the simplicity of it. What about this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N6M5MH0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Fenduh]

Wiring was straight forward. I have a 30A GFCI breaker and the 2 hot leads are attached to the input and then then out to the socket...

For ventilation I'm using the stainless steal mixing bowl design with great success. I've changed the flexible "foil" duct out for straight pipe and changed out the mount since this picture.

 

[augiedoggy]

Yikes a boil at 18%..... Guess the 50 60hz power difference does render it pretty useless for consistent control...in reality it takes like 60%-70% to achieve a boil...
Yes there are many alternatives which are just as cheap and easy like an ssvr with an amp meter to show level or an inexpensive pid with manual mode like the mypin td4.

 

[Liveforliving]

First off, the use of a salad bowl for venting is awesome. Might be copying that in the near future.

Second, with how cheap PID controllers are ($20-40), isn't it easiest to use a PID with a thermometer and SSR to control water temperature?

 

[Onkel_Udo]

First off, the use of a salad bowl for venting is awesome. Might be copying that in the near future.

Second, with how cheap PID controllers are ($20-40), isn't it easiest to use a PID with a thermometer and SSR to control water temperature?

I think you indirectly answered your own question. What is the total cost of all the items involved in this solution? Does it gain you anything if all you want is the ability to boil?

 

[bobsantos]

How does it work when you do a ventilation at the basement? How about the heat produced?