ebay aquarium temp controller build

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1KD1

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Can anyone assist me in finding a wiring diagram for the single stage version of this? I got mine from eBay yesterday and I have the box built but I am not sure about wiring it up and the instructions don't cover that part (just how to set the unit up after installed).
 

Balto

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Prymal

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My controller just died, If it plug it in the screen flashes on a for second then dies. Any ideas if this could be a wiring issue? I opened up my box and pulled on all the wires and they seemed tight.
 

atjsparty

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So, I think (or thought) I got the right one.
It takes the 110V in, I'm able to wire it to power and it powers up and seems to control as expected. I wired up my temp probe and, as my initial use will be for a RIMS tube, wired up the Hot side to a plug just to test it out. I get NO power to the plug. Looking closer, it shows the Heating and Cooling output as 10A/220VAC. Is this the right unit? Any idea why it isn't powering my plug?

Here's a picture of my unit and one of my very sloppy (for testing purposes only) wiring.

Appreciate the help.

Cheers,
Aaron

STC-1000.JPG


STC-1000_test wired.JPG
 

atjsparty

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Heh...it's pretty amazing how well things work when you wire them up the correct way. I'm sure this similar post has been listed on this thread 100s of times. Anyone else who's reading this...LOOK AT THE FIRST THREAD...there's a reason it was started, because it works.
Thanks mjmac85 for politely pointing me in the right direction...even if it the answer was so simple and right in front of my face.

RIMS test run will be tomorrow and brew day is Friday. :mug:
 

mjmac85

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There is 3 or 4 different diagrams on here. Really need to add the different types to the first page.
 

Prymal

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So as I posted above my controller just stopped working after being fine for about 4 months. I checked the wiring last night and one of the connections to the power outlet was loose so I tightened that up and the controller still wont come on. when I plug it in i can hear that power is getting to the controller because it starts to buzz very quietly. Does anyone have some suggestions?
 

johnlvs2run

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I checked the wiring last night and one of the connections to the power outlet was loose so I tightened that up and the controller still wont come on.
Be sure to double check all the connections. My switch stopped working a couple years ago and it turned out two of the wires had frayed due to movement. I cut them back to good wire, and the switch was again working fine.
 

rstump

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Mine just took12 days to Central Missouri.
Purchased on 12 March, delivered yesterday via snail mail.
e-bay tracking info leads one to believe the pkg was in Los Angeles on the 19th.

Must wait till I'm in town on Tuesday to pick up a project box,

Some Fun now, hay....

Got mine up and running yesterday but am having some trouble with following the programming instructions. I remember seeing the info here before but can not find it again. Any suggestions or guidance would be appreciated.
 

timdsmith72

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Got mine up and running yesterday but am having some trouble with following the programming instructions. I remember seeing the info here before but can not find it again. Any suggestions or guidance would be appreciated.
Press the up arrow once to show the current SET TEMP
Press the down arrow once to show the temperature DIFFERENCE VALUE

To enter PROGRAMMING MODE press and hold the S key for 3 seconds.

The display will change to F1 and a light will appear under the word Set on the controller.

Use the arrow keys to choose which function you would like to change. Press the S key to make your selection.

Programming Options:
F1 = SET TEMP
F2 = DIFFERENCE VALUE (variance from the set temp
F3 = COMPRESSOR DELAY (in minutes)
F4 = PROBE ERROR CORRECTION (positive or negative by 0.1 degree)

While holding the S key down, press/hold the arrow keys to adjust the value. When you have set the value you want release the S key and the arrow key.

If you press the arrow key without holding the S button down you will be able to make changes to another function if necessary.

Press the POWER BUTTON (above the S key) to save your changes.
 

jEld

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Can anyone help me decide between this aquarium Controller or the Control Products TC-9102D-HV on amazon? Need a controller for my fermentation freezer (salvaged commercial SS freezer from a Mexican fast food establishment). Thanks!
 

rstump

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Press the up arrow once to show the current SET TEMP
Press the down arrow once to show the temperature DIFFERENCE VALUE...
Press the POWER BUTTON (above the S key) to save your changes.
Got it now, overlooked the save function.

Saved and printed

Thanks much...
 

thewurzel

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Here's a picture of my unit and one of my very sloppy (for testing purposes only) wiring.
I notice that you are using a power cord from the UK and not the standard US colors
make sure you have the power supply the right way round as
Brown is supposed to be hot
Blue is Neutral
green/ yellow is ground / Earth
 

atjsparty

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thewurzel said:
I notice that you are using a power cord from the UK and not the standard US colors
make sure you have the power supply the right way round as
Brown is supposed to be hot
Blue is Neutral
green/ yellow is ground / Earth
Thanks, yeah I opened it up and went...huh?!?
Looked it up online though to ensure I got it right.
Cheers!
 

Sapperaviator

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I used this wiring diagram almost everything works, but it will only send power to the freezer if it thinks it needs to heat up. It does nothing if the temp. is above the temp. I have set. I think I have read all 250 pages of this post with no solutions. PLEASE help me. Thanks for all the great info.

user45275_pic5712_1322846032.jpg
 

JuanMoore

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I used this wiring diagram almost everything works, but it will only send power to the freezer if it thinks it needs to heat up. It does nothing if the temp. is above the temp. I have set. I think I have read all 250 pages of this post with no solutions. PLEASE help me. Thanks for all the great info.
If that diagram worked for you then you have the single stage model, which can either operate in heating mode or cooling mode, but can not control both heating and cooling at the same time. You seem to have it set to heating mode. Here are the directions for switching between heating and cooling modes-

Cooling, heating mode setting:
Press "SET" key and hold more than 3 seconds to enter the menu display, the
screen appears "HC" code, press the "SET" key to display the working mode,
press the "▲" or "▼" to adjust the display, C means cooling mode; H means
heating mode.
 

Balto

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if that diagram worked for you then you have the single stage model, which can either operate in heating mode or cooling mode, but can not control both heating and cooling at the same time. You seem to have it set to heating mode. Here are the directions for switching between heating and cooling modes-

+1
 

blackdak

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I think that I have got the knock off stc controller. On the wiring diagram it has 1&2 as Loading, 3&4 as Power Supply, 5&6 as Function Control and 7&8 as Temp. Probe. Has anyone wired one of these up so that it controls heating and cooling?
 

johnlvs2run

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If that diagram worked for you then you have the single stage model, which can either operate in heating mode or cooling mode, but can not control both heating and cooling at the same time. You seem to have it set to heating mode. Here are the directions for switching between heating and cooling modes-
Isn't the post #1 diagram of a single state model? But it has 2 plugs, one for hot, one for cold.
I thought dual stage models show 2 different temperatures? I'm trying to understand this and figure out which one to get.

Also, where and how do you attach the project boxes?
 

mjmac85

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Isn't the post #1 diagram of a single state model? But it has 2 plugs, one for hot, one for cold.
I thought dual stage models show 2 different temperatures? I'm trying to understand this and figure out which one to get.

Also, where and how do you attach the project boxes?
It is a dual stage thermometer. Dual stage only means it does heating and cooling. You only need to see 1 temp. If the temp is ABOVE your set temp it cools. If it's BELOW it heats. Thats it.

blackdak said:
I think that I have got the knock off stc controller. On the wiring diagram it has 1&2 as Loading, 3&4 as Power Supply, 5&6 as Function Control and 7&8 as Temp. Probe. Has anyone wired one of these up so that it controls heating and cooling?
Read the first post.
 

JuanMoore

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I think that I have got the knock off stc controller. On the wiring diagram it has 1&2 as Loading, 3&4 as Power Supply, 5&6 as Function Control and 7&8 as Temp. Probe. Has anyone wired one of these up so that it controls heating and cooling?
No, because if that's how your terminals are labeled, you have a single stage controller. As I said 6 posts ago, a single stage controller can only control heating or cooling, it can not control both at the same time. For a wiring diagram for your unit, as well as directions for how to switch between heating mode and cooling mode, go back 6 posts.

Thank you Juan, that was the solution and so simple. The model number on mine is DWH7016C 110 v.
No problem, glad I could help. :mug:

Isn't the post #1 diagram of a single state model? But it has 2 plugs, one for hot, one for cold.
I thought dual stage models show 2 different temperatures? I'm trying to understand this and figure out which one to get.
It is a dual stage thermometer. Dual stage only means it does heating and cooling. You only need to see 1 temp. If the temp is ABOVE your set temp it cools. If it's BELOW it heats. Thats it.
This ^

Also, where and how do you attach the project boxes?
:confused: Most people using a project box are doing so to make it into a stand alone unit, similar to a Ranco or Johnson controller. If you want the controller mounted somewhere in your keezer or fermentation cabinet, it probably makes more sense not to use a project box. If you do want to mount it somewhere, with or without a project box, you can mount it wherever/however you want though.
 

mjmac85

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It's a lot easier to mount it into a project box than the fridge/freezer. You do not need to run wires through walls. I did not want to hit a coolant line. My freezer is not a show piece so I'm not concerned with how it looks. Mine just sits on top of the lid in the box. I just move it when I want to get inside. Really no reason to open it though. I check every few days to make sure nothing blew up or decided to live next to my beer.
 

Kingfish

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Can anyone help me decide between this aquarium Controller or the Control Products TC-9102D-HV on amazon? Need a controller for my fermentation freezer (salvaged commercial SS freezer from a Mexican fast food establishment). Thanks!
$60 vs $30
 

ksb63

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Finally brought fridge home and hooked it up. Works like a charm. Now if I can just brew more often ;-)
 

johnlvs2run

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It is a dual stage thermometer. Dual stage only means it does heating and cooling. You only need to see 1 temp. If the temp is ABOVE your set temp it cools. If it's BELOW it heats. Thats it.
Thanks. I don't need to see the set temp all the time, but wouldn't mind getting a dual if it ran a 2nd device, or at least showed room temperature. The tcqbn2006p listing states "The Controller can be set to control two separate devices at the same time.", which indicates this is possible, with 2 probes I guess? I prefer single controllers though 2 of them would be 3 times the price of a dual.

Most people using a project box are doing so to make it into a stand alone unit
Right, but stand alone where? I have seen quite a few controller project boxes online but none of them attached to anything. I've been wondering if one could be recessed in the wall, along with the regular outlets. I see now that the boxes would need to be turned around so the screw plate goes on front, or I could use a regular switchplate outlet box. The probe would be coming out but still it should look good this way. However would the controller get too hot in the wall?
 

JuanMoore

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Thanks. I don't need to see the set temp all the time, but wouldn't mind getting a dual if it ran a 2nd device, or at least showed room temperature. The tcqbn2006p listing states "The Controller can be set to control two separate devices at the same time.", which indicates this is possible, with 2 probes I guess? I prefer single controllers though 2 of them would be 3 times the price of a dual.
The explanation of how it works by mjmac85 was essentially correct, but a bit oversimplified. For both the dual stage unit that this thread is about (STC-1000), and the similar single stage unit, the display actually shows the temperature that the probe is reading, not the set temp you have programmed. The STC-1000 controls two devices at the same time, one heating device, and one cooling device, but only uses one temperature probe to do this. You have to program both a set temperature and a temperature differential. If the probe reads above the set temp plus the temp differential, the cooling device is turned on, and runs until the temp comes back to the set temp. If the temp drops below the set temp minus the temp differential, the heating device is activated, and stays on until the temp reaches the set point.

For example, if you have the set temp at 18.0C and the differential set at 0.5C, nothing will happen as long as the temp stays between 17.6C and 18.4C. As soon as the temp reaches 18.5C, the fridge will activate and cool until the temp comes down to 18.0. If the temps drops to 17.5C the heater will activate and stay on until the temp comes up to 18.0C. And FWIW the STC-1000 has a minimum temperature differential of 0.3C.

The PID you linked seems to be set up to operate the same way, and also only has one temperature probe input. The main difference is that it has two displays, one to show the temp sensor reading (upper display), and one to display the set temp (lower display). The relays on that unit are only rated for 3A, which is less than most fridges and freezers draw, and might require adding an external SSR. The relays on the STC-1000 controller on the other hand are rated for 10A.

Right, but stand alone where? I have seen quite a few controller project boxes online but none of them attached to anything. I've been wondering if one could be recessed in the wall, along with the regular outlets. I see now that the boxes would need to be turned around so the screw plate goes on front, or I could use a regular switchplate outlet box. The probe would be coming out but still it should look good this way. However would the controller get too hot in the wall?
A lot of people place the stand alone unit on top of their fermentation fridge/cabinet, some simply tuck it out of the way behind the ferm fridge/cabinet, and some screw it to the wall or side of their ferm cabinet. The one for my keezer is built into the collar, but I set the stand alone unit for my fermentation fridge on top of the fridge. I don't see any issue with mounting the unit in a wall. It wouldn't get any hotter in the wall than it would in a small airtight project box. The mounting size is only slightly larger than a decora outlet, so you could do something like this build, except install the box in a wall. You'd just need to drill a small hole in the cover plate for the temperature probe to come through. If you used an "old work" box you could mount it sideways so that the controller display is oriented properly.

Hope this helps. :mug:
 

johnlvs2run

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I don't see any issue with mounting the unit in a wall. It wouldn't get any hotter in the wall than it would in a small airtight project box. The mounting size is only slightly larger than a decora outlet, so you could do something like this build, except install the box in a wall.
Awesome! That's what I'm going to do.

Thanks for your comments. Very helpful! :mug:

The relays on that unit are only rated for 3A, which is less than most fridges and freezers draw, and might require adding an external SSR. The relays on the STC-1000 controller on the other hand are rated for 10A.
Is the STC-1000 as good as a PID controller?

Would adding an SSR be helpful even if the controller is rated for higher than the draw?
 

dragonbreath11

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I get the diy and the coolness factor but if not electrically and diy inclined you can pick up a ranco for $50 shipped and a lot less work.
 

dragonbreath11

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Yup! only single application, heat or cool, not both!
Ok question. Why do you need heat? I assume most temp controllers are for keezers and ferm chambers to do lagers and control temps period. Why would you need a heater?
 

JuanMoore

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Is the STC-1000 as good as a PID controller?

Would adding an SSR be helpful even if the controller is rated for higher than the draw?
For a ferm cabinet, keezer, etc., the simple on/off of the STC-1000 is just as good as a PID. For other applications like controlling a RIMS or HERMS, the PID offers some advantages. I don't really see any benefit to adding an SSR unless you're worried about the draw, but maybe someone who knows more about electricity could answer that one better for you.

I get the diy and the coolness factor but if not electrically and diy inclined you can pick up a ranco for $50 shipped and a lot less work.
For $50 you're only going to find single stage Rancos. The STC-1000 is dual stage, and a dual stage Ranco runs closer to $100. With the current location of my fermentation fridge, I really need dual stage control, but YMMV.
 

JuanMoore

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Ok question. Why do you need heat? I assume most temp controllers are for keezers and ferm chambers to do lagers and control temps period. Why would you need a heater?
A lot of people (myself included) keep their fermentation fridge/cabinet in an unheated garage/shed/basement/etc, so when the ambient temps drop below desired fermentation temps, a heater is needed. I pretty much only brew ales, and keeping my fermentation fridge at 64F year round requires a heater pretty often, even living in the desert.

Even for my keezer which only needs single stage control, I opted for an e-bay model similar to the one this thread is about. I wanted to install it flush mounted in the collar (which looks a lot nicer/cleaner IMO), which wouldn't be very practical with a Ranco. Also, since it was going in the collar, I didn't need an enclosure or many of the other parts, so the total cost was significantly less than a Ranco would have been.
 

Balto

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Ok question. Why do you need heat? I assume most temp controllers are for keezers and ferm chambers to do lagers and control temps period. Why would you need a heater?
Quick answer but you'll get the idea! It depends on where the keezer is located ie garage, basement... etc Also what temp to maintain in your brewing application. In my case my kegerator
is located in my mudroom, that is actually part of my deck. Being in Vermont it can get down to below zero in there during the winter, heating mode and above 90 in the summer cooling mode. Also as was last week 80 during the day and 30's at night.

:mug:
 

JuanMoore

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That clears it up a bit but what do homebrewers typically use for heating?
All sorts of things, and it doesn't require much heat at all. There are "brew belts" that are essentially a heat pad you can wrap a carboy in. A lot of people use small space heaters, heating pads, or incandescent light bulbs. There's a DIY somewhere that shows installing a light fixture inside of a 1 gal paint can to make a small heater. One brewer I know uses an old string of x-mas lights. I use a ceramic heat bulb in a cheap pull chain light fixture. It looks like this-

 
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