DUOTIGHT LEAKS......

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 26, 2016
Messages
5,237
Reaction score
7,061
Location
Chicago
I've been kegging a while now. I know the ropes and such. But I did some cleaning/routine maintenance to my keezer over the weekend; cleaned beer lines, kegs, etc. in preparation for upcoming batches, and then yesterday while reconnecting some kegs I noticed a leak on one of my lines where the eva barrier tubing plugs into the duotight tailpiece. Now I might have wiggled the lines around a bit while cleaning so I pulled the line, cut 2" off and re-inserted it. Problem solved. Just now I hooked up a new keg that I had force carbed @ 50psi overnight and then vented all pressure before hooking up the 8psi serving line. Within maybe a minute of connecting the beer line, the liquid line started leaking where the eva barrier inserts into the compression adapter on the beer out disconnect. I quickly disconnected it and bled the line pressure, then left the keg unconnected until I decide what to do next.

I know from a bit of experience with my RO water filter that the little collar that pops out when you insert a line can be secured against leaking caused by accidental bumps with small plastic horseshoe-shaped clips, so do my duo tight fittings need this as well? Will this guard against leaks like this after the lines are jostled? I'm super freaked out now about losing a keg of beer, and if clips aren't the answer then every last piece of duo tight and eva barrier line are going in the trash ASAP. The clips must be cheap AF, I dunno why the fittings wouldn't include a couple, they certainly ain't cheap.

SUPER DISAPPOINTED.
 
I haven't had leaks, but I've only been with Duotight fittings for about 9 months. But I haven't done anything above about 15 psi.

The only perhaps relevant experience I have is that I cracked one of these Duotight tailpiece fittings when I was first hooking things up. I overtightened it while attaching to the shank and it cracked. There was no apparent strength in the plastic part between "tight enough" and "too tight". Maybe something similar happened to you. I know when I replaced it, I kept it really low on the tightening torque. And haven't had leaks.
 
@Jayjay1976 Today I noticed the same thing with 1 of my duotight tailpieces. I have 4, but only one leaks if jostled slightly. I’ve tried cutting the line like you did and still leaks. I have some of the clips on the way, so will let you know what happens. I’m disappointed too.
 
The horseshoe clips are to prevent unintentionally pushing the collar in, thus loosening the clamping mechanism on the line.

If the collar is completely pulled out, it should not creep back in by itself. But to be secure, the clip should prevent that from ever happening.
Maybe the teeth in the clamping mechanism are worn out (due to tensions, pulling and wiggling) and don't clamp sufficiently anymore? That could be a potential warranty issue, I'd say.
 
I've been 100% EVAbarrier beer and gas sides since 13 months ago now, but I will also keep an eye out for this. Tbh, I didn't use many Duotight connectors because @Bobby_M's stock was getting pounded at the same time I was kitting up and I try to avoid Morebeer unless necessary as their prices with shipping can usually be beat. I got most of my fittings from freshwatersystems.com, as they not only have competitive prices, they have a killer web page for finding fittings.

My 5/8" BSP tail piece connectors are DMfit, my 3/8" BSP flow meter connectors are JG, and almost all of my 1/4" MFL connectors (QDs, manifolds, regulators and through-wall bulkheads) are JG. I think I have five Duotight 1/4" MFL connectors on regulator outputs, and a handful more for my fermentation gas keg purging system (non-critical, those).

I do find it interesting that the dual O-rings wouldn't provide a more reliable seal, even on a line that perhaps gets jostled (eg: the QD end of a gas run). The clips probably aren't a bad idea if this is a frequent problem. Gotta help...

Cheers!
 
I've been kegging a while now. I know the ropes and such. But I did some cleaning/routine maintenance to my keezer over the weekend; cleaned beer lines, kegs, etc. in preparation for upcoming batches, and then yesterday while reconnecting some kegs I noticed a leak on one of my lines where the eva barrier tubing plugs into the duotight tailpiece. Now I might have wiggled the lines around a bit while cleaning so I pulled the line, cut 2" off and re-inserted it. Problem solved. Just now I hooked up a new keg that I had force carbed @ 50psi overnight and then vented all pressure before hooking up the 8psi serving line. Within maybe a minute of connecting the beer line, the liquid line started leaking where the eva barrier inserts into the compression adapter on the beer out disconnect. I quickly disconnected it and bled the line pressure, then left the keg unconnected until I decide what to do next.

I know from a bit of experience with my RO water filter that the little collar that pops out when you insert a line can be secured against leaking caused by accidental bumps with small plastic horseshoe-shaped clips, so do my duo tight fittings need this as well? Will this guard against leaks like this after the lines are jostled? I'm super freaked out now about losing a keg of beer, and if clips aren't the answer then every last piece of duo tight and eva barrier line are going in the trash ASAP. The clips must be cheap AF, I dunno why the fittings wouldn't include a couple, they certainly ain't cheap.

SUPER DISAPPOINTED.

I had them occasionally leak a little during jostling, so I got clips to keep the connection from pushing in.

I got a bag of them on Amazon fairly cheap

They really should come with them.
 
I've been 100% EVAbarrier beer and gas sides since 13 months ago now, but I will also keep an eye out for this. Tbh, I didn't use many Duotight connectors because @Bobby_M's stock was getting pounded at the same time I was kitting up and I try to avoid Morebeer unless necessary as their prices with shipping can usually be beat. I got most of my fittings from freshwatersystems.com, as they not only have competitive prices, they have a killer web page for finding fittings.

My 5/8" BSP tail piece connectors are DMfit, my 3/8" BSP flow meter connectors are JG, and almost all of my 1/4" MFL connectors (QDs, manifolds, regulators and through-wall bulkheads) are JG. I think I have five Duotight 1/4" MFL connectors on regulator outputs, and a handful more for my fermentation gas keg purging system (non-critical, those).

I do find it interesting that the dual O-rings wouldn't provide a more reliable seal, even on a line that perhaps gets jostled (eg: the QD end of a gas run). The clips probably aren't a bad idea if this is a frequent problem. Gotta help...

Cheers!
TBH, with a 20# tank hooked up I just feel like everybody is out to get me. Can't shake it, just never thought my DuoTight would start acting up.
 
The horseshoe clips are to prevent unintentionally pushing the collar in, thus loosening the clamping mechanism on the line.

If the collar is completely pulled out, it should not creep back in by itself. But to be secure, the clip should prevent that from ever happening.
Maybe the teeth in the clamping mechanism are worn out (due to tensions, pulling and wiggling) and don't clamp sufficiently anymore? That could be a potential warranty issue, I'd say.
These are pretty new overall, 4 tap lines total with less than a dozen kegs through them all together. I could drink more if I had the dedication to but I do not.

You know, beer drinking as a hobby is not as easy as it sounds. It's about focus people!!
 
I've had a few problems with the FFL ends leaking on my gas headers and regulators. I hand tighten, then give it a quarter turn, and ... leak. Tighten slightly, and ... leak. Repeat until overtightened. I've swapped out the MFL adapters, to varying degrees of success - or lack thereof. Certainly have not had the level of performance that others have had here, and certainly not the confidence level (for my 20# tanks!) that I seek.
 
Thanks for the link! I just finished my tap tower recently and due to the design the last step involved a less than optimal connection of the duotight fitting to the Evabarrier line. I had to connect the two and the shank is seated in a 2x1" black iron pipe reducer which I had to screw into a tee. So the connection had to spin. I had one leak but it was a result of not getting the connection tight before screwing in. I didn't have enough slack in the line originally. I will probably add these.
 
I've had a few problems with the FFL ends leaking on my gas headers and regulators. I hand tighten, then give it a quarter turn, and ... leak. Tighten slightly, and ... leak. Repeat until overtightened. I've swapped out the MFL adapters, to varying degrees of success - or lack thereof. Certainly have not had the level of performance that others have had here, and certainly not the confidence level (for my 20# tanks!) that I seek.
I had that same issue in the beginning as I was going off manufacturer instructions. In the end I had to keep tightening and I've been fine ever since. I haven't lost even a drop of liquid yet.
I used to really fret about losing a tank of co2 because of the cost and availability of refills or swaps. I have since bought a 100lbs tank and fill all of my 5ers off that. Filling the big one will be an annual (maybe bi-annual) event.
 
I've had a few leaks on the duotights as well in the last few months, as well as initially cracking a few by over tightening. I had John Guest MFL fittings on the end of my old Accuflex Ultra lines (although they were wet side only) and they did not leak once in 7 years. I've actually ordered a bunch of JG to replace the duotights.
 
I've noticed leaks on my gas line connections with duotights also when inadvertently pushing on the side of the rubing near the CO2 QD on the keg. You inspired me to order the locking clips - thanks.
 
Last edited:
I've had a few leaks on the duotights as well in the last few months, as well as initially cracking a few by over tightening. I had John Guest MFL fittings on the end of my old Accuflex Ultra lines (although they were wet side only) and they did not leak once in 7 years. I've actually ordered a bunch of JG to replace the duotights.
Does John Guest make a tailpiece? I'd appreciate links to the fittings if you have them. I'm going to try the clips out and if I'm not convinced, I'll swap 'em all out with JG.
 
Does John Guest make a tailpiece?
Like these?
843483 - Push-In Adapter - 5/16'' to 5/8'' BSPP @$1.89 or:

John Guest Female Adapter BSPP - 5/16 x 5/8 BSPP @$55.02/10
For some reason, Fresh Water Systems doesn't have or sell singles (# PI451015FS) of those (anymore). That particular fitting is also very pricey compared to other suppliers.
Make sure not to get the "cone end" variety of those, they need a recess, and won't seal on the flat end of the shank.

Just thought of something... Some push-in fittings are made out of Acetal and others from some other plastic.
I have the feeling the Acetal ones are more durable (tougher?), especially the threads, and possibly a bit better polymer for our purposes?
 
Last edited:
I cant help here as I don't have any tailpieces. I have a 10 tap old perlick takeout from a bar, the wet connections are barbed into a glycol jacketed manifold. I heated the line to stretch over the barbs so that I have the 8mm to MFL connectors only on the wet keg side and the CO2 sides.
 
[shrug]

Going strictly by each company's web page:
  • The JG shank adapter (5/8 BSP to 5/16 OD) PI451015FS is Acetel.
  • The DMfit flow meter adapter (3/8 BSP to 5/16 OD) AFAB0506C is Acetel.
  • The JG 1/4" flare adapter (FFL to 5/16 OD) PM4508F4S is Acetal.
  • The Duotight 1/4" flare adapter (FFL to 5/16 OD) KL06880 is Acetal.
Cheers! (Say hello to "John" for me ;))
 
Coincidentally, I see today (in another, related thread) that it is now being suggested to use teflon tape on the Duotight's ffl connections to SS mfl threads, such as on the MFL outlet of a regulator or distributor (but not needed for plastic-tipped keg QD connectors).

I had always thought that this was not needed, and even Kegland's own video shows them threading the Duotight ffl directly onto a metal mfl-threaded coupling with no teflon tape. Seems like this may apply to my problem, and certainly worth a try.

From Bruce_the_loon:
Poking around on the net a bit has most sites copying the sales blurb from somewhere with a line that there are special instructions for flare fittings which aren't in the blurb.

Williamsbrewing.com has a note that stainless steel MFL connectors will need some teflon tape to make sure the seal is good and has a video which may or may not be relevant.

DuoTight 8mm To Female Flare
Double O ring push fitting fits standard pin lock threaded fittings, and accepts EVABarrier lined tubing.
www.williamsbrewing.com
www.williamsbrewing.com

Hope it helps a bit.
 
For those that have leaks, do you use StarSan and let it stay in contact with the fittings? People have mentioned that StarSan is not good for this type of plastic and can cause cracks. If you do use StarSan, I wonder if there are small cracks on the inside that you haven't noticed.
 
[shrug]

Going strictly by each company's web page:
  • The JG shank adapter (5/8 BSP to 5/16 OD) PI451015FS is Acetel.
  • The DMfit flow meter adapter (3/8 BSP to 5/16 OD) AFAB0506C is Acetel.
  • The JG 1/4" flare adapter (FFL to 5/16 OD) PM4508F4S is Acetal.
  • The Duotight 1/4" flare adapter (FFL to 5/16 OD) KL06880 is Acetal.
Cheers! (Say hello to "John" for me ;))
You are correct. I was looking at the wrong JG datasheet.

The plastics do 'feel' different though.
 
Coincidentally, I see today (in another, related thread) that it is now being suggested to use teflon tape on the Duotight's ffl connections to SS mfl threads, such as on the MFL outlet of a regulator or distributor (but not needed for plastic-tipped keg QD connectors).

I had always thought that this was not needed, and even Kegland's own video shows them threading the Duotight ffl directly onto a metal mfl-threaded coupling with no teflon tape. Seems like this may apply to my problem, and certainly worth a try.

From Bruce_the_loon:
Poking around on the net a bit has most sites copying the sales blurb from somewhere with a line that there are special instructions for flare fittings which aren't in the blurb.

Williamsbrewing.com has a note that stainless steel MFL connectors will need some teflon tape to make sure the seal is good and has a video which may or may not be relevant.

DuoTight 8mm To Female Flare
Double O ring push fitting fits standard pin lock threaded fittings, and accepts EVABarrier lined tubing.
www.williamsbrewing.com
www.williamsbrewing.com

Hope it helps a bit.

Hmmm. The 'FFL' and 'MFL' are -4 JIC fittings that should not need tape. I put the plastic conical washers that traditional go between the metal FFL and MFL pieces in a couple spots to see if it would help.... it helped me accidentally over tighten but that was it.


For those that have leaks, do you use StarSan and let it stay in contact with the fittings? People have mentioned that StarSan is not good for this type of plastic and can cause cracks. If you do use StarSan, I wonder if there are small cracks on the inside that you haven't noticed.

Hmm. I do for sanitizing and if I have a leak I spray them down to look for bubbles. I did have on leaking right in the middle of the body of one.... ordered some other fluid to use.
 
Is there a size mismatch? I see EVA barrier lines sold in millimeters, and fittings in the US sold in inches. If slightly too small lines are going into the fittings they will indeed leak.

(I've been around some laser welding systems that come from Europe and we swap out their metric fittings with our own so we can keep one standard system of tubing i.e. 1/4" not 5 mm).
 
Is there a size mismatch? I see EVA barrier lines sold in millimeters, and fittings in the US sold in inches. If slightly too small lines are going into the fittings they will indeed leak.

(I've been around some laser welding systems that come from Europe and we swap out their metric fittings with our own so we can keep one standard system of tubing i.e. 1/4" not 5 mm).

I could be wrong but I was under the impression that the US sellers of Duotight (Morebeer, Williams, etc.) import it from Kegland (or Keglands distributor) so the size of the fittings shouldn't be different in the US.
 
Perhaps, but when I bought my EVA Barrier tubing (Morebeer) it was listed as 4, 5 or 6mm. I shoved it over my existing barbs so I didn't care much. Fittings are normally not metric in the US. Maybe you're right but it could really depend on where one purchases them? Or they do a "close enough" conversion.

Just a thought. If there's a mismatch it could be an issue.
 
All of the EVA tubing is 8mm OD, the ID is different. The duotight fittings are for 8mm OD tubing.

I wanted to disbelieve, but there's a lot correct here. Looks like 4 and 5mm tubings are indeed that ID, with 8mm OD. The 6mm (perhaps 6.5, site dependent on what they call it) is a 9.5mm OD. (I'm used to a 1/4" or 5mm tubing being that OD, it's normally how it works, but within the specific duotight system they are indeed using different terminology)

Duotight offers indeed 8mm and 9.5mm fittings, working well for that tubing.

Anyone using other brands of push connect fittings should however take note i.e. if you brought some tubing to Home Depot and got whatever seems to have worked. But most folks probably are not, for this anyhow.
 
Williamsbrewing.com has a note that stainless steel MFL connectors will need some teflon tape to make sure the seal is good and has a video which may or may not be relevant.

The product info linked says this. I don't understand it; it sounds contradictory. It says it seals tight without tape, but you should use it?

The fitting seals tight without teflon tape when using plastic ball and pin locks, but you will need to wrap stainless male flare threads is a bit of teflon tape to get them to seal before threading these on.
 
It's not contradictory: ball lock and pin lock disconnects sporting 1/4" mfl stems have integrated gaskets at their tips.
Meanwhile, the typical manifold or regulator shutoff valve is naked metal...

Cheers!
 
It's not contradictory: ball lock and pin lock disconnects sporting 1/4" mfl stems have integrated gaskets at their tips.
Meanwhile, the typical manifold or regulator shutoff valve is naked metal...

Cheers!
For which I normally use these. Work great for me. Definitely leaks without them for which I don't think thread tape would help.

Nylon Flare Fitting Washers [Nylon-Flare-Washers] - $0.14 : The Chi-Company, a home brewing company since 1996, New and used beverage equipment for Homebrewing, Home winemaking, Soda systems and used Pepsi vending equipment
 
Hmm. I do for sanitizing and if I have a leak I spray them down to look for bubbles. I did have on leaking right in the middle of the body of one.... ordered some other fluid to use.

You can use StarSan, just rinse it after. I push it through the lines then hook up all the kegs and pull beer from each tap. Minimal contact time but enough to sanitize.
 
Back
Top