dry yeasting????

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Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2008
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lawrenceville ga.
does anyone have any exp. with dry yeating a belgian? something about adding more of a different yeast after the first ferm is about 75% complete.? would you have to add something to feed the yeast when you pitch the new yeast? ans, how many times can this be done on the same batch? is this how dubbels, and trippels etc. are made??
Most Belgian style ales are fermented with one yeast strain. Once fermentation and maturation have completed the beer is bottled. Belgian brewers add a mixture of priming solution along with some more of the same yeast and allow the beer to referment and carbonate in the bottle.
The reason they add the same yeast at bottling time is because most of the original yeast would have flocculated and would be too tired to eat the new sugar and carbonate the beer. The new yeast is fresh, it can ferment the priming solution and since the beer is bottled the CO2 will dissolve in it, creating carbonation.
If you see “bottle conditioned” on a beer label, it means fresh yeast was added during bottling to ensure carbonation.
o.k., can the fresh yeast be cultured yeast that came from either washing or a starter? also, can i take a wyeast activator pouch, activate it, let it swell and pour that into a starter flask with malt for food and let that propogate and then pitch it into the wort. or is that necesary? at bottling time when i bulk prime the 2nd, how much yeast do i pitch with it and how long after priming can i wait till i bottle?:p
Iordz said:
If you see “bottle conditioned” on a beer label, it means fresh yeast was added during bottling to ensure carbonation.
It is not necessary to add more yeast, and I believe most of the bottle conditioned ales do not add more yeast. However some brewerys filter their beer before bottling then add a different yeast for bottling. In particular a lager yeast might be added to an ale so it will carbonate even if the beer is stored cold.
For the home brewer it is only necessary to add yeast at bottling if your beer has been in the fermenter for 6months or more. Even then it will probably carbonate but it may take a long time.

There is not much sugar being added at bottling so it does not take much yeast. If you feel you need to add yeast a Wyeast pack or WhiteLabs tube is more than enough yeast, as is a half packet of dry. A starter is not needed in this case. The yeast can come from any safe source. Because there is not much fermentation happening in the bottle the type of yeast is not of much concern. The easiest and perhaps cheapest solution is to use a packet of dry yeast.

Dubbles and Trippels do not really refer to the number of fermentations. That is just a tale propagated by many consumers. They only refer somewhat loosely to the strength of the beer with Dubbles being a strong beer and Trippels being even stronger.