Dry hopping technique, advice appreciated

[mdrose]

I’ve been making NEIPAs over that past few months, I use a RoboBrew and 7 gallon SS Brewtech Chronical. Results have been pretty good, but sometimes when I crack open one of my favorite commercial IPAs like a Single Cut, Frost Beer Works, etc) I feel a bit defeated because these beers are just better than mine. .
When it comes to dry hopping, I’ve been experimenting with various techniques, and would like some advice from anyone who feels that they have a really solid method that gives consistent results.
Some of the issues that I’m wondering about in particular:

1). is is better to put in the hops loose, or in a bag or basket? I’ve been using a hop basket with fine mesh, which works fine but when I remove it at the end of the process it seems like there is plenty of hops goodness still in there. I wish there was a way to compress it or flow some wort through the there during fermentation.

2). I first dry hop when fermentation gets started strong (day 2). And that’s when I put in the basket. But the second dry hop I do after fermentation slows, and I’m worried about introducing oxygen. I’m toying with some clever ways to do this, but any suggestions? Is it a big deal to introduce some O2 when fermentation has slowed way down?
3) anyone try removing their hop bag or basket before racking to a keg? I’m wondering if that would help the flavor by preventing the hops contacting my beer for too long.

thanks for any thoughts or ideas.

 

[Jtvann]

Search function is your friend. There's more threads answering all the above questions than you'll care to read.

1- The hops goodness that you refer to. You're after the oils in the hops, not the leaf matter itself. Hop particulate lends to a very harsh bitter taste, sometimes biting in flavor. Active fermentation has plenty of flow and movement of wort. There's no need to recirculate. Some people do it, but the risk of oxidation is too high for the risk in my opinion.

2- Putting hops in during active fermentation will lend to a lot of the aromas being blown off with fermentation. It does lend to possible biotransformation which has other benefits if it's what you're shooting for. When you pop the lid, you will introduce air. It happens. There's ways to minimize it, discussed adnausium on these boards. With fermentation still active, some or most of the oxygen will be scavenged.

3- With ales, there's no reason to leave beer in the fermenter long enough for hops to cause off flavors. Rack it to the keg when it's ready. There's no need to remove hops from the fermenter. It is a common practice to dry hop in the keg with either loose hops and a floating dip tube or bagged hops which will never be removed for the life of the keg. If stored ar low temps, such as serving temps, hops are very slow to turn grassy or give off flavors. Stored at higher temps, they turn faster but still not within probably a month.

 

[mdrose]

Thanks Jtvann.

 

[SundayBrewer]

Loose hops is the best way imo. Once the mesh clogs nothing is getting thru. If i ever use a bag i'll probably double the amount. My last batch was 13 ozs. I find it better to keep hop material out of the keg or bottle. What yeast are you using. The A38 is good stuff. I use this filter when racking.
https://www.amazon.com/Female-line-...r+50+mesh&qid=1574054338&s=industrial&sr=1-22

 

[Jag75]

I use muslin bags or paint strainer bags with good results. I like you dry hop on day 2 or 3 of fermentation. I then dry hop again 4 days before packaging . So the first dry hop bag I take out and then purge with co2. The second dry hop bag stays in until the transfer to my keg is complete.

 

[mdrose]

Loose hops is the best way imo. Once the mesh clogs nothing is getting thru. If i ever use a bag i'll probably double the amount. My last batch was 13 ozs. I find it better to keep hop material out of the keg or bottle. What yeast are you using. The A38 is good stuff. I use this filter when racking.
https://www.amazon.com/Female-line-...r+50+mesh&qid=1574054338&s=industrial&sr=1-22

Im using white labs Burlington Ale yeast. Ive used it for a couple batches and pleased with the results. When i put loose pellets into my fermenter i do find some coming through when racking to the keg. I have a small in line filter that im going to try on the next transfer to keep bits and pieces of hops coming through.

 

[mdrose]

I use muslin bags or paint strainer bags with good results. I like you dry hop on day 2 or 3 of fermentation. I then dry hop again 4 days before packaging . So the first dry hop bag I take out and then purge with co2. The second dry hop bag stays in until the transfer to my keg is complete.

So I’m thinking i should remove the first hop addition thats in my hop basket, but i dont like the idea of opening the top of my chronical - thats a lot of O2 exposure. Im on day 8 of a fermentation now. I think I,m going to leave the hop basket in and add some loose pellets through my air lock port. I plan to pour the hops into a bottle, purge the bottle with CO2 and then dump them in to minimize O2 contact.

 

[couchsending]

Do you have the pressure transfer fitting for the conical? The one with the PRV on it?

If you have a conical and can cold crash under some positive pressure there is zero need to bag the hops. Zero

Adding dry hops during very active fermentation is not necessary nor is it advised.

If you want to use the “Vermont ale” strain of yeast the White Labs version is the worst of the bunch. Gigayeast, The Yeast Bay, Imperial options are all better. More consistent ferments, less diacetyl, etc.

 

[Jag75]

I use GY054 and love it