Dry hopping in keg cold

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rjbank

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Looking for any input on adding hops to the keg after chilling. What does everybody think?

Thanks
 
Do not put the hops in to the keg without a bag. I repeat, do not. They will clog the dip tube. Even the bag may get sucked to the tube if it is near the bottom. I recommend not even going down that route and just dry hopping in fermentor.

I have had good success with infusing the keg with hops during packaging, but the hop material never makes it to the keg.

The last thing you want to have to do is unscrew the poppet to get the clog free, with a full keg of beer.
 
I've got a stainless steel mesh "tea ball" that opens up into two halves. Try Asian grocery stores, mine was made in Vietnam.
You can get small single - cup size but the one you'd need is the about the size of a golf ball, as long as it fits through the opening of a cornie it's good.

The advantage of a tea ball is that it sinks down to the bottom of the keg and rests next to the pickup tube, so you are drawing off hoppiness with every glass. :)
 
I've been trying, unsuccessfully I might add, to replicate New Glarus old IIPA.
I dry hopped, in the keg, with > 5oz of hops. I put the hop pellets in a bag (I bought a kit from Wilserbrewer last year). I tie the bag shut, tie dental floss around the bag and around one of the handles on the keg. Leaving it hanging just off the floor of the keg with the lid on. I generally leave the keg out of the keezer for at LEAST one week to let the dry hops do their thing, before chilling. Keep in mind, though, hops pellets soak up a lot of beer. It can be a PITA to get that bag out when the keg is empty!
 
I tried a bazooka screen over the dip tube and it doesn't work. Im still getting a little hops with each pour.

I've posted this a couple times now but a guy did an article on zero o2 kegging for IPA's. He does the entire transfer under pressure to retain as much hop presence as possible.

In the keg he uses a long cylindrical filter that is normally meant for filling with hops but he just inserts the dip tube into this with the hops free floating around it.

http://www.homebrewing.org/Corny-Keg-Dip-Tube-Screen_p_2091.html


View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1458912600.085779.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1458912614.304650.jpg
 
I've got a stainless steel mesh "tea ball" that opens up into two halves. Try Asian grocery stores, mine was made in Vietnam.
You can get small single - cup size but the one you'd need is the about the size of a golf ball, as long as it fits through the opening of a cornie it's good.

The advantage of a tea ball is that it sinks down to the bottom of the keg and rests next to the pickup tube, so you are drawing off hoppiness with every glass. :)

i use these too, but the ones i use are about the size of a tennis ball...and i only fill each one halfway (about .5 oz) because the pellets will expand. i have used the smaller golf ball size for things like spices.
 
i use these too, but the ones i use are about the size of a tennis ball...and i only fill each one halfway (about .5 oz) because the pellets will expand. i have used the smaller golf ball size for things like spices.

I use these too- but only for whole (leaf) hops. The pellets disintegrate and come right through.

For pellet hops, I use a very fine mesh bag (like from @Wilserbrewer ) because I swear that they will clog the diptube if even a little come through.

The tea ball only holds about 1/2 ounce or so of whole hops. One time I packed more in, and when the keg was gone and I removed the ball, the hops inside were totally dry! So I will use two balls with less hops in them, and that works great. I never tie the balls or the bag to the keg- they go right in the bottom.

It takes longer to extract the hops flavor and aroma in cold beer, so this is a great way for the beer to remain hoppier, longer. But it doesn't really work as well for super young IPAs, since it takes a while for the flavor extraction.

Sometimes I will keep the keg warm for the first 3 days, and then place it in the kegerator, so then I will have the best of both worlds.
 
I use these too- but only for whole (leaf) hops. The pellets disintegrate and come right through.

For pellet hops, I use a very fine mesh bag (like from @Wilserbrewer ) because I swear that they will clog the diptube if even a little come through.

The tea ball only holds about 1/2 ounce or so of whole hops. One time I packed more in, and when the keg was gone and I removed the ball, the hops inside were totally dry! So I will use two balls with less hops in them, and that works great. I never tie the balls or the bag to the keg- they go right in the bottom.

It takes longer to extract the hops flavor and aroma in cold beer, so this is a great way for the beer to remain hoppier, longer. But it doesn't really work as well for super young IPAs, since it takes a while for the flavor extraction.

Sometimes I will keep the keg warm for the first 3 days, and then place it in the kegerator, so then I will have the best of both worlds.



For those using the tea-ball, are yours this one? link


It's 3.5" in diameter. I've used it more for holding small parts for cleaning (keg disconnect parts) than anything. I haven't done any dry-hopped batches since I bought it, but assumed the large diameter would be good enough for a couple of ounces of pellet hops. If I need more than one of those, then I may have to look at the micron sleeves that go into the keg like the ones from SS Brewing and AiH sell. I kinda like the idea of those along with a screen sleeve over the dip tube for the rogue hop pieces that get out of the main filter.
 
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I put hops in a Wilserbrewer dry hop bag and just let them float in the keg. It's worked well so far.
 
Thanks for everybody's input. I should've stated that my question is effect of dry hopping in cold beer. I have an iPa I kegged 2 weeks ago that could use some more aroma but have never dry hopped a cold beer. Thanks again to all!
 
I frequently dry hop in the keg. My process is simple. Fill the keg (with beer... Duh) and add the hop bag (mesh bag, like wilserbrewer bag or one bought at HBS) with NO MORE THAN 3 oz. hops. I always have issues with any more than 3 oz. Pressurize at three times serving PSI for 2 days, then depressurize keg (release the PRV, or depress the 'in' poppet with a spoon) and set to serving pressure for drinking. My beers are often quite drinkable, the hops flavors are usually a solid punch in the face, which I am enjoying after only 2-3 weeks.
 
As stated, it takes longer for oils to get into the beer at colder temps, so at least let the initial dry hop take place around room temp. As for serving through a cold keg with dry hops, I like the stainless mesh tubes that can easily be dropped into corny kegs.
 
Hi all, I know this is an old thread but it matches what I am doing right now. I have an ounce of Cascade in a room temp keg right now. It’s in a mesh bag tied to floss which is sticking out the keg lid seal. It’s been there 24 hrs so far and is holding enough pressure to make a noise if I pull the valve release ring for an instant.

As to my question - is it possible to unseal the keg after letting it sit at room temp for 2-3 days and fish the hops out then reseal and chill? My kegs last a few months so I’d like the hops out after a 3 day room temp rest if it doesn’t present a risk. Thoughts?
 
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