Draining the Mash Tun/Hot Side Aeration?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SkyHighBrew88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
252
Reaction score
1
Location
Indianapolis
Last batch (also my first) I used silicone tubing to route the wort into my boiling kettle to avoid splashing & aeration.

How many of you do the same and is this really necessary? In other words, can I just open the valve & let my wort drain without worrying how much splash & aeration?
 
I use a tube to drain the mash tun so I can vorlauf. Using a tube makes it easy to direct the wort into a 1 gallon pitcher (to be added back to the MT for vorlauf) or the kettle.

As for HSA...it largely considered a myth these days, so do what works best for your setup, but don't worry about it for that particular stand point.
 
I use a tube to help create a siphon and get all the wort out that is below the bulkhead.
 
I use a tube to help create a siphon and get all the wort out that is below the bulkhead.

Not quite sure what you mean there. I was referring to the length of hose you would attach to the ball valve outside of the mash tun.

If there is residual wort below the inlet for the valve inside of the mash tun, can you tip the mash tun, re-vorlauf as necessary and drain?
 
I do just because I try to eliminate as many variables as possible but I didn't used to and can't really tell any difference in the finished product.
 
My MLT sits on my garage workbench and lauters directly down into my boil pot.....that's over a three foot free fall. The beer seems to be fine; if someone can demonstrate that HSA exists, and is indeed a variable, I'll be happy to order out some silicone tubing.
 
Not quite sure what you mean there. I was referring to the length of hose you would attach to the ball valve outside of the mash tun.

If there is residual wort below the inlet for the valve inside of the mash tun, can you tip the mash tun, re-vorlauf as necessary and drain?

He is saying that the hose end in the wort in the kettle helps suck the MLT dry and there is no need to tilt.

You can tilt if you want but there is no need to vorlauf at that point.

Seems like you have it handled with the hose. What are you trying to accomplish by removing it from the process?
 
I always figured that most of the oxygen (if HSA exists to a significant concern for homebrewing applications) would be driven off by the boil anyway so what does it matter?

I use a tube to help the siphon and easily direct the wort into the desired container (vourlauf pitcher or brew pot)
 
I still intentionally give it air to get the yeast going (but I never try to store it for more than a few months). I have to put my vote on "the boil removes air" idea, unless you are worried about oxidation between sparg and boil, and if you are, that you sir, are more obsessive than me!
 
I always figured that most of the oxygen (if HSA exists to a significant concern for homebrewing applications) would be driven off by the boil anyway so what does it matter?

I use a tube to help the siphon and easily direct the wort into the desired container (vourlauf pitcher or brew pot)

The concern is that HSA irreversibly oxidizes the wort at the molecular level, so unlike dissolved oxygen, it wouldn't be liberated when boiling. That said, I have never run into problems with HSA, and there is plenty of evidence that suggests that even very aggressive splashing of hot wort does not cause any perceptible negative flavor impact.
 
This is good to know I did like 5 AG batches that I just let the ball vale rip and let it splash in to my kettle so fare my 1st AG beer a oatmeal stout is awesome. The 2nd beer I made was a black IPA and that was great as well. So I don't notice any off flavors but I might get a house just to be safe.
 
He is saying that the hose end in the wort in the kettle helps suck the MLT dry and there is no need to tilt.

You can tilt if you want but there is no need to vorlauf at that point.

Seems like you have it handled with the hose. What are you trying to accomplish by removing it from the process?

I just wanted to remove the hose if it isn't going to cause problems with my beer. Having the hose seems like it's just one more thing I'd have to clean at the end of the day (not like it's a huge deal). At the same rate, if it is providing suction for the siphon out of the mash tun, maybe I just oughta continue using it.
 
The concern is that HSA irreversibly oxidizes the wort at the molecular level, so unlike dissolved oxygen, it wouldn't be liberated when boiling. That said, I have never run into problems with HSA, and there is plenty of evidence that suggests that even very aggressive splashing of hot wort does not cause any perceptible negative flavor impact.

Cool! Thanks for clearing that up for me!
 
The concern is that HSA irreversibly oxidizes the wort at the molecular level, so unlike dissolved oxygen, it wouldn't be liberated when boiling. That said, I have never run into problems with HSA, and there is plenty of evidence that suggests that even very aggressive splashing of hot wort does not cause any perceptible negative flavor impact.

Thats good to know. I do BIAB and collect my wort in a bottling bucket before dumping the wort from the bottling bucket into the kettle. Suffice to say it get pretty aerated!
 
Back
Top