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ttuato

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@Jaybird

How about a homebrew version of this dry hopper from Stout. (they have a homebrew version already but it does not hold very many hops - https://conical-fermenter.com/dry-hop-doser.html)

13L-dry-hopper-SP-DRY-HOPPER-13L---1336.jpg




Using the wort filter body from brewhardware: https://www.brewershardware.com/tri...rainer-filter-3-od-body-only-refurbished.html

Make the following modifications:

tc15strainershell-2.jpg


In addition to the above it would require a 1.5" butterfly valve at the top of the fermenter
Process for adding dryhops:
  1. Attach to a closed valve on top of fermenter (think conical or Spike flex.
  2. Purge with CO2 for a couple of seconds in the bottom NPT
  3. Add hops, place cap on top (but do not clamp yet).
  4. Purge with CO2 again, then clamp cap.
  5. Purge again with CO2 - release pressure from TOP valve
  6. Pressurize chamber with CO2 so that higher than fermentor pressure (avoid
  7. Now open valve and let hops drop into fermenter.

I have the brewhardware wort strainer already. It will hold ~20oz of hop pellets
 
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Jaybird
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I can make that. Do me a favor and shoot me a PM (or here) with a "Hand CAD" dwg of exactly what you want. I'll shoot you over a quote.

Cheers
Jay
 

NewJersey

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Has anyone ever had a tri clamp mount immersion chiller made?
I brew biab in an SS brewtech 1V setup. I like immersion chillers and just stick mine in the pot right on top of the heating coil and recirculate around it.
I was just thinking about it today and the perfect solution for me would be a 1.5" triclamp mounted IC. I use ball lock quick disconnects and would like an in/out on the top/bottom on the outside of the TC.
Does this make any sense?
I can measure how high/wide I'd like it, but does what I'm asking for make sense?
 
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Jaybird
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Has anyone ever had a tri clamp mount immersion chiller made?
I brew biab in an SS brewtech 1V setup. I like immersion chillers and just stick mine in the pot right on top of the heating coil and recirculate around it.
I was just thinking about it today and the perfect solution for me would be a 1.5" triclamp mounted IC. I use ball lock quick disconnects and would like an in/out on the top/bottom on the outside of the TC.
Does this make any sense?
I can measure how high/wide I'd like it, but does what I'm asking for make sense?

Send me a drawing of exactly what your looking for. We can discuss it.

Cheers
Jay
 

bkboiler

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Probably not the place, but just got my one-off stainless false bottom tonight!
Fits great! Can't wait to brew with it. Thanks Jay and Co!
Pic below is still needing me to cut the dip tube to length...
 

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AkTom

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I have a Foundry 10.5 ordered. Do you know the hole size in the lid? If I wanted to get a steam slayer, would that attach with the Turbo 500 2” triclover connect on your website?
Thanks, and cheers
Tom
 

SandstoneCityBrew

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@Jaybird , I've been impatiently waiting for this to come back in stock, with no luck. Any chance you can make something similar, in the ballpark of the same price range?
 

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Jaybird
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@Jaybird , I've been impatiently waiting for this to come back in stock, with no luck. Any chance you can make something similar, in the ballpark of the same price range?
Not in that price range man. Unfortunately I don't build or try and compete with China. Sorry. Shoot me a PM of the diameter and height you want. I'll see what I can do for you on it.

Cheers
Jay
 

Punx Clever

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It would add $20 as a custom part. PM me and I can direct you if you want it.

Cheers
Jay

Just realized I could do what I wanted by screwing a daggum male ball-lock into the base part itself! Got too caught up replicating the original setup. Just put in my order for in-stock parts.

Thanks though!
 

jimmayhugh

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Hi Jaybird,
I'd like to get a price on fabricating a short 2" spool with a 1.5" or 1" Tee added. I want to keep the 2" portion as short as possible. Basically, it would look like your lyne arm without the perf, and the 2" section as short as possible.

PM or e-mail me with a quote. Thanks
 

Bago-0

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I currently ferment in a sankey 1/4 barrel keg. It is fitted with a 4inch TC on top that has 2 NPT fittings. I use them for blow off and pressure transfers. I would like to use a glycol chiller and wanted a 4inch TC top that had a chiller coil welded in as well as an additional port for blow off / transfers. Spike makes one but it doesn't have the additional port I would need and they said they couldn't add one. Could this be made? here is pic of the spike coil.Flex.jpg
 
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Jaybird
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I currently ferment in a sankey 1/4 barrel keg. It is fitted with a 4inch TC on top that has 2 NPT fittings. I use them for blow off and pressure transfers. I would like to use a glycol chiller and wanted a 4inch TC top that had a chiller coil welded in as well as an additional port for blow off / transfers. Spike makes one but it doesn't have the additional port I would need and they said they couldn't add one. Could this be made? here is pic of the spike coil.View attachment 693418
Yes but we currently do not have the coil. Our vendor botched our order and the coils cam in about 1" to large in Diameter. If you can get me just the coil. I'm happy to do it for you.
Shoot me a PM lets discuss it.

Cheers
Jay
 
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I have a conical (SSBrewtec 7 gal Unitank). I like to do closed transfers to the keg. One of the areas that is difficult to purge is the tri-clamp connection into my transfer tubing. I prefer a flare fitting so I can use normal threaded tubing couplings that fit on ball lock fittings.

the problem I’m trying to solve is that the flare connection in 1.5” tri clamp fittings is in the center. That means that between my butterfly valve and that fitting, half of the gap would be filled with air. As I transfer all my beer is flowing through that air.

I’ve tried to purge it before by taking things apart and shooting CO2 back up the fitting, but that is sketchy at best because I need to take fittings apart to connect back to ball lock fittings for the transfer.

So, what I’m wondering. Could you make a fitting that either allows the beer to force out all the airspace or one that has a way to purge that airspace while keeping the transfer hose assembled?

I think the easiest way would be an asymmetrical flare to tri-clover fitting that puts the flare output at the very top of the connection so it pushes air out as it fills. I typically waste a few ounces at the beginning as I clear the trub anyway, so if that air got pushed out it would go into the waste beer.

I can imagine a more complicated fitting that would have a ball lock gas fitting up at the flare fitting that would allow you to purge both the connection at the conical and the transfer hose, but that seems more complicated difficult.

what do you think?
 

Brewbuzzard

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I would like a SS false bottom about 1/8" thick with slots cut in (CNC) and approximately 19 1/4 " diameter. Can you make something like that? I have a FB with the round holes but it is thin and warped.
Thank you Sir
 
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@NeoBrew and @Brewbuzzard

I have to apologize for the late reply here. Long story (posted) but I am back in the shop after being gone for about a year and back at it full tilt. If you are still interested in your parts let me know. Brewbuzzard I know I can get that laser cut but the cost would likely be absurd. I am sure I can build you a PERF FB custom for your needs that you will be hard pressed to destroy. Been building them for 15 years and are "ALMOST" indestructible. Ran over 1 with my Ford F250 Diesel and it didn't budge :)

Check it out.


Cheers
Jay
 

matt_m

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How about a dry hopper that goes on Spikes 1.5” top port that actually works with minimal clogging? Nothing will be perfect but any solution involving a 1.5” TC butterfly valve and Cheerio testing isn’t going to cut it. There’s a lot of ideas and plans out there but none are really tested and put together in one package.
 
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How about a dry hopper that goes on Spikes 1.5” top port that actually works with minimal clogging? Nothing will be perfect but any solution involving a 1.5” TC butterfly valve and Cheerio testing isn’t going to cut it. There’s a lot of ideas and plans out there but none are really tested and put together in one package.
Have you thought about a 2" or 3" sight glass system and just convert the bottom of the butterfly to 1.5 with a concentric reducer? I mean it's going to add an enormous amount of height probably 6" or so But I bet I can build you a 3" blow off cap that would let you purge after hops go in the sight glass, easy enough.
Cheers
Jay
 

matt_m

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Have you thought about a 2" or 3" sight glass system and just convert the bottom of the butterfly to 1.5 with a concentric reducer? I mean it's going to add an enormous amount of height probably 6" or so But I bet I can build you a 3" blow off cap that would let you purge after hops go in the sight glass, easy enough.
Cheers
Jay

I've seen one or two like that. They are quite tall! One issue I see is you can't purge the reducer so there's a pretty good volume of plain old air trapped in there which seems like it would pretty well negate the purpose. I've seen one person using a full port 1.5" TC ball valve and says it works well. But some people say the 1.5" TC "isn't too bad" and my test says otherwise. I'd love to buy an engineered and tested solution rather than buying parts and trying stuff--gets expensive.
 

matt_m

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I ordered a few parts for some testing and I believe this will be functional. Requires tapping on the valve with a wrench to get Cheerios to fall through sometimes and I might need a short ferrule above the sight glass to get enough capacity. Now what I need is a 15 PSI PRV with a pull ring and a gas post for the top. One option is a Spike gas manifold but surely it can be done for significantly less than $95.
 

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jwelch1103

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@NeoBrew and @Brewbuzzard

I have to apologize for the late reply here. Long story (posted) but I am back in the shop after being gone for about a year and back at it full tilt. If you are still interested in your parts let me know. Brewbuzzard I know I can get that laser cut but the cost would likely be absurd. I am sure I can build you a PERF FB custom for your needs that you will be hard pressed to destroy. Been building them for 15 years and are "ALMOST" indestructible. Ran over 1 with my Ford F250 Diesel and it didn't budge :)

Check it out.


Cheers
Jay


Hi Jaybird,
I have an assembly I kind of MacGyvered together to wash cornie and sanke kegs that I would like to improve upon and hoping you can help me with that. I’ll private message you with pics of what I have built and see what you can do
 
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Jaybird
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Hi Jaybird,
I have an assembly I kind of MacGyvered together to wash cornie and sanke kegs that I would like to improve upon and hoping you can help me with that. I’ll private message you with pics of what I have built and see what you can do
Send it. Happy to take a look. I have a system I built years ago and LOVE IT! Maybe I can assist.

Cheers
Jay
 

matt_m

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Brewbuzzard

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Jay,
Do you have a CNC to cut the slots in a false bottom. Stainless steel 1/8" thick. If you think you can do this I'll send you the exact dimensions.
 
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Jay,
Do you have a CNC to cut the slots in a false bottom. Stainless steel 1/8" thick. If you think candy do this I'll send you the exact dimensions.
CNC Plasma table is on the way. Vendor is a bit delayed but I will have one here shortly.

Lets come back to this after I get it in and set up. Unless you get it built elsewhere before then.

Cheers
Jay
 
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@Jaybird would you have the ability to do a custom manifold from 1" tubing? Don't have a picture handy but I've made something up from 2 TC tees and 2 TC elbows that I *think* is what I want but its kind of ridiculously unwieldy. I'm thinking once I get it nailed down I'd like to look into getting something fabricated.

I see the raw building blocks are available, eg: 304 Stainless Steel Polished 90 Degree Tee for Butt Weld Fittings - for 1" Tube OD - Pkg Qty 2
Matt
I have a vendor I use for 1" weld parts. I'll check their stock. But to answer your ?? yes we have built several manifolds. They are not exactly cheap but we can put it together for you. Yes I can do 1/2" all the way to 3"

Cheers
Jay
 

Yesfan

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@Jaybird

Just throwing this out......How much, if you're able, to add some 1.5 TC ports to a Spike conical lid? Spike offers two additional 1.5 TC ports to their conicals and stainless buckets now, but are unable to add those ports to the old style lids.

I could just buy the updated lid, but then what use do I have with the old lid? Definitely don't want to have a spare part with no use taken up space in my brewery. Thanks in advance!
 
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@Jaybird

Just throwing this out......How much, if you're able, to add some 1.5 TC ports to a Spike conical lid? Spike offers two additional 1.5 TC ports to their conicals and stainless buckets now, but are unable to add those ports to the old style lids.

I could just buy the updated lid, but then what use do I have with the old lid? Definitely don't want to have a spare part with no use taken up space in my brewery. Thanks in advance!

I have taken on those jobs in the past, welding to thin kettles and lids and unfortunately they never turn out without some sort of warpage that makes them either unsightly or unusable. There is a reason Ben wont do it man. I would just suggest just purchase the one with the port in it. I do appreciate you thinking of us though.
Cheers
Jay
 

Yesfan

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I have taken on those jobs in the past, welding to thin kettles and lids and unfortunately they never turn out without some sort of warpage that makes them either unsightly or unusable. There is a reason Ben wont do it man. I would just suggest just purchase the one with the port in it. I do appreciate you thinking of us though.
Cheers
Jay


No problem man. Thanks for the reply back and for the clarification. I guess I'll just keep what I have, unless there's a need for used conical lids.
 
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