Do Perlick taps require special shanks?

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Garfield43

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I had some questions about these shanks so I asked the seller. They did not answer all my questions but one answer surprised me. Shanks in question.
I wanted to know how thick of item you could mount the shanks in.
The seller did not answer that but they answered one other question.
"Will these work with Perlick taps?"
"NO"

Do you have to get some sort of special shank to go with a Perlick tap?
Anyone have a source for those in stainless steel?
Is the seller mistaken?
 

micraftbeer

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All taps and shanks have a standard thread. The differences you find (that I'm aware of) are:

1. Stainless vs chrome-plated brass.
2. Length.
3. Hole ID for beer coming in.
4. Intertap sells a self closing spring for their taps, which require that shank, which has a hollowed out pocket for the spring to sit in. That shank can be used without the spring and on other faucets, though.
 
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Garfield43

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Thank you.
That is what I thought.
This is what I am looking at


2-1/8"x1/4" Bore All Stainless Beer Faucet Shank with nut 304SS Krome C212
I can't see any reason it would not work with a Perlick tap.
One other question I had that they did not answer is how thick of material can you mount this to?
Unfortunately they use the same picture for every shank so it is hard to see how much threads you actually get with the 2 1/8" long one.
I am trying to rebuild jockey boxes so they would need to mount to somthing about .75 to 1 inch thick.
I suspect these will bee too short.
This one would give me another inch (notice it is the same picture) 3-1/8"x1/ 4" Bore All Stainless Beer Faucet Shank with nut 304SS Krome C213
 
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Garfield43

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One more thing, this particular company has a very attractive model they use for a lot of their pictures. No complaints from me. Everything is tastefully done...at least that's what I thought until I went looking for parts for Corny kegs.

I have so many questions.
Are they drowning tiny women in regular sized mugs of beer?
Did they get 2 giant beer mugs just so the could fill them and drown 2 leggy models?
Does this photo look appealing to anyone?
The barmaid doesn't seem all that concerned about the 2 ladies drowning in BEER brand beer, that leads me to think this sort of thing is common place here.
Personally I think photoshopping the whole model setting on the bar would have looked much better than this horror show.
Even if they used the same model 3 times I think most of us guys out there would have been willing to believe 2 of the triplets stopped by to see their other sister at work.
No doubt those are very nice legs.
It just seems creepy that they aren't you know attached to a woman.
I mean if cattle had legs like that I wouldn't want to ask one to come up for a few drinks.
Same thing with my neighbor Bob.
The legs being attached to a human female has always been part of the deal for me, I guess maybe I'm picky?
Notice you can't see the torsos of the models in the giant beer glasses.
Either this is crappy photoshop or BEER brand beer dissolves human flesh.
I guess it is possible I am over thinking this.
 

Golddiggie

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For the original question...
I have some shanks that didn't mate properly with my Perlick faucets. But, they DID with others I have. I believe both are stainless, but sourced from two different sellers. I couldn't get one version to properly seal with the faucet. Changed them out and issue went away.

You would think that these would be industry standard configuration parts. Allowing you to use any shank with any faucet. Guess not.
 

micraftbeer

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Interesting experience, @Golddiggie. I have different shanks (have had different shanks from probably 5-6 different manufacturers and randomly interchange between Intertap and Perlick faucets without any thought and have not had leak issues. That being said, based on @Golddigge's experience, combined with the seller telling you they don't work with Perlick's, probably wouldn't be wise to buy those.

@Garfield43 , KegConnection has a great reference sheet here that translates the shank length to "usable shank length". Since the length generally references total threaded length, and you use some length for faucet on one end, and beer fitting on the other, you only have a certain length to pass through your keezer. A tidbit I picked up from a session at HomeBrew Con in Portland a few years ago, was you want the shank length to be about 3x as long as the thickness of whatever you're passing through. That allows you to have a length sticking inside your keezer that can act as a heat sink and pick up cold keezer air to cool your faucet.

Interesting tidbit aside, I've used 6" shanks, clustered together, with a PC fan blowing continually on them. Verified with a wireless logging thermometer that they are only 2 degrees warmer than my set temperature in the keezer (which seems pretty impressive). But I still get first foamy pint. My faucets are so chilly that humidity in the air condenses on them during humid periods. I don't intend to hijack this into a post where people point me to line length calculator and ask what temperature/pressure I have my system to. I just want to let you know that if you have interior space available, and a way to circulate air, going for 6" shanks can keep your taps cold. Whether that resolves first foamy pint for you, no guarantees...
 

Golddiggie

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IIRC, the shanks I have are either 4.5" or 5" long going through about 2-1/2" of collar (total thickness of the wood, insulation goes around them). I have more than enough threads to lock them into position and have threads left after the nuts on the beer lines (at the inside end of the shank). Not a ton of threads mind you, but I didn't want them dangling in there several inches.

I've not had this setup during the full summer yet, but I don't recall having any issue with condensation when they were through a fridge door in their previous home.

I got the ones that work nice with the Perlick's from Keg Connection (IIRC) about 10 years ago. The newer ones were from MoreBeer and didn't play nice with my older Perlick's. The shanks might work fine with the current generation of Perlick's though. Don't know since my taps work really well so I'm not going to just replace them.

I'm thinking about getting a fourth stout tap to use for ales on nitro mix. I have more than enough lines to feed that (total of five nitro mix gas lines inside the keezer).
 

bkboiler

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I'm not 100% sure, but I thought flow control taps need special shanks? Might fact check that...I know my intertap flow control tap has a different shank
 

day_trippr

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I run a six-pack of first generation Perlick 525ss faucets, and when I kitted my t-tower way back then I bought what I thought were generic shanks (still do). The Perls fit those shanks just fine, and a decade later when I added the Intertap springs those nested in without issue as well.

Flow control faucets, otoh, are a different beast, and I would not try to apply non-FC experience...

Cheers!
 
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One more thing, this particular company has a very attractive model they use for a lot of their pictures. No complaints from me. Everything is tastefully done...at least that's what I thought until I went looking for parts for Corny kegs.

I have so many questions.
Are they drowning tiny women in regular sized mugs of beer?
Did they get 2 giant beer mugs just so the could fill them and drown 2 leggy models?
Does this photo look appealing to anyone?
The barmaid doesn't seem all that concerned about the 2 ladies drowning in BEER brand beer, that leads me to think this sort of thing is common place here.
Personally I think photoshopping the whole model setting on the bar would have looked much better than this horror show.
Even if they used the same model 3 times I think most of us guys out there would have been willing to believe 2 of the triplets stopped by to see their other sister at work.
No doubt those are very nice legs.
It just seems creepy that they aren't you know attached to a woman.
I mean if cattle had legs like that I wouldn't want to ask one to come up for a few drinks.
Same thing with my neighbor Bob.
The legs being attached to a human female has always been part of the deal for me, I guess maybe I'm picky?
Notice you can't see the torsos of the models in the giant beer glasses.
Either this is crappy photoshop or BEER brand beer dissolves human flesh.
I guess it is possible I am over thinking this.
This post brought to you by acid.
 
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I have 4 standard Krome ss shanks and 4 ss faucets; two of em are intertaps and the other two perlicks, all 4 of them fitted with intertap springs and everything is working quite well.
 
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Garfield43

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I run a six-pack of first generation Perlick 525ss faucets, and when I kitted my t-tower way back then I bought what I thought were generic shanks (still do). The Perls fit those shanks just fine, and a decade later when I added the Intertap springs those nested in without issue as well.

Flow control faucets, otoh, are a different beast, and I would not try to apply non-FC experience...

Cheers!
Glad to know the Intertap springs will work with Perlicks.
I have one flow control faucet a Perlick 690SS.
I haven't used it yet but I have it mounted to one of those adapters that fits on to a disconnect.
It fits fine and even has enough room for the creamer action to work (I can push the lever back and it moves just as far attached to the adapter or not so I don't think it is hitting on anything).
I forgot who I bought it from but they said it should work with a Perlick Flow Control faucet.
I had to look around a while to find a stainless one that would work with a Perlick flow control.
Obviously the Intertap spring wont work with a creamer faucet becase it has that creamer disc that shoves into the shank.
I should have it hooked up soon.
Thanks for all the advice and apparently I am over thinking the pic on the Corny Keg page.
Still unsettling.
 
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Garfield43

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Thank you!
Also thanks for this note on the 2" shank " Due to the way the standard measurements are made, this shank can accommodate a wall thickness of .5". "
That gives me somthing to work with.
I will measure the wall of the cooler and go from there.
 
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