• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Do I want an eHLT ?

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Looking at my spare right now. The 90 degree bend tube looks like it is swaged into a hollow bolt that is potted at the outer tip where the wires exit. The tube is inserted into the head of the bolt.

When the switch is installed, the sealing surfaces are the underside of the bolt and the interior surface of the vessel. The soft silicone washer goes between them.

This works very well, mine hasn't leaked at all.

Kevink, to answer your question, the seal between the tube and the nut, which isn't a nut but a hollow bolt, could leak, but it doesn't matter since the hollow bolt body is filled with epoxy potting compound which will seal it just fine.

Hope this helps.
 
I've been getting tired of the instability of the water temp for mashing and for sparging. I use a jet burner to heat water, but it always seems to be just not the right temp.

.

AMEN, brother...

still working with coolers, and the thermal mass of the cooler and the 13lbs of grain changes from brew to brew, enough that I can't always get the mash temp high enough...(I am within a few degrees, but always seems on the lower side-- 151, 152...)
 
The thermal mass of the cooler shouldn't change, but that of the grain will change depending on its moisture content. Do you preheat your cooler? I have found that adding the mash water and letting it set for 10 minutes to even up the temperature throughout the cooler helps with hitting my mash temperatures. Also, heating the water a couple degrees hotter than the calculations call for helps, since heat is lost during the mashing in and stirring time.
 
The thermal mass of the cooler shouldn't change, but that of the grain will change depending on its moisture content. Do you preheat your cooler? I have found that adding the mash water and letting it set for 10 minutes to even up the temperature throughout the cooler helps with hitting my mash temperatures. Also, heating the water a couple degrees hotter than the calculations call for helps, since heat is lost during the mashing in and stirring time.

Yes - I do pre heat the cooler, but maybe not long enough ...I will try 10 mins tomorrow.. I thinlk I can improve bec I use water from the HLT to pre heat..if temp is below what I want, the water from hlt cannot make hotter...it seems tha the hlt water can never be hot enough...I crush the grains the night before, as well as collect water...not making sense bec I am so tired from making Yopper's ale (but am sure it will have been worth the effort..
 
Kirk;

Interesting way to keep the electrical wires insulated from the water. How did you
mount the elements into the chrome pipes ?
 
Bill,

Are you using the same thermometer for measuring HLT and MT temperatures?

If your are certain your temps are accurate, then heat loss sources will be things like the transfer to MT process and equipment, natural cooling to the air, etc. Are you guessing or measuring the temp of the grain when you put that into the calculation?

When I preheat my MT (a rectangular cooler), I aim to get the water temp to a degree or two above strike temp, so I heat the water going into the MT maybe 4-5 degrees above what the calculation calls for. I can always add some cold water if it is too hot. I know I will lose a couple degrees during the ten minutes of mashing in and stirring since there is so much mixing and exposure of hot mash surface to the cool air.
 
Don't want to hijack thread..

:off:

Same therm, which I must replace since it is diff to read...(small dial):

I shoot for 175-180 in the hlt. idea being once I get transferred (3.5 - 4 gallons, done manually with a pitcher), I let sit for 5 mins (I should do this for 10 -15, BUT i GET IMPATIENT)...temp now should settle at 167 or so(but it never does() When I add grains, I should get a mash temp around 154.

Sat, the temp in hlt was below 180. Going to remedy this process by taking longer to pre-heat the tun, and getting a better thermometer,,,but the beer is turning out great -- no complaints there for sure ..

Need therapy for patience and money for quality thermometer !
 
What's the hottest temp you've done in the eHLT ? Some brews I've done require 200 deg. water for a step infusion.
 
Hi rcrabb22;

Long term, how has this eHLT worked ? Does the element leak or have to be replaced
after a year or so? How well do you get to the water temp you want ?

I'm looking at this and thinking I want the PID to control the temps. But heating with
electricity may be easier to stop when the temp is reached.
 
Yes - I do pre heat the cooler, but maybe not long enough ...I will try 10 mins tomorrow.. I thinlk I can improve bec I use water from the HLT to pre heat..if temp is below what I want, the water from hlt cannot make hotter...it seems tha the hlt water can never be hot enough...I crush the grains the night before, as well as collect water...not making sense bec I am so tired from making Yopper's ale (but am sure it will have been worth the effort..

I preheat my cooler with the hottest tap water possible. I let the cooler preheat while I get the mash ready (measuring and getting it to temp). The recipe program I use has a nice water temp calculator with it. When the mash water is up to temp, I drain the cooler, add the grains, add the mash water. I aim a few degrees higher with the mash water because its easier to stir and let the temp drop.
In the future, when I want to brew inside (basement) I'm going to want to go the electric route, plus I just went from my electric water heater to a natural gas water heater and now have a spare 240 circuit.
Good luck with your endeavor.
 
Another question.

How much heat do you lose in transferring water from the eHLT to the MLT ?
I found out that the hose I use to transfer from my HLT to the MLT loses 7 deg.

I'm thinking it may be good to make the eHLT section in the lid and be able to
put the lid on the MLT to heat the strike water, and then switch lids to a second
cooler and heat the sparge water in the HLT.

Thoughts?
 
I have yet to dial in an exact formula, but I am getting close...I do notice quite a temp drop when manually transferring the water first ... but once the grains are addes, and I WAIT WAIT....the temp drops down to agreeable 153 - 155 ... just did this today...

The bucket heaters are great when they don't trip the GFI ... they don't like all the steam...but they do work for the mash-in side in the basement..I still boil on the porch
 
Another question.

How much heat do you lose in transferring water from the eHLT to the MLT ?
I found out that the hose I use to transfer from my HLT to the MLT loses 7 deg.

I'm thinking it may be good to make the eHLT section in the lid and be able to
put the lid on the MLT to heat the strike water, and then switch lids to a second
cooler and heat the sparge water in the HLT.

Thoughts?

That would be tough to do considering your volumes will be different for varying recipes. Plus I would tend to believe that I would be burning out elements left and right from forgetting to unplug before picking up the lid. Everytime you want to stir to ensure even heating you have to unplug?
 
For those with a stirrer in their eHLT, how much stirring is necessary ?
I could use my pump instead of a stirrer but I wouldn't want to pump
too long due to temp loss.

I was playing with my pump to recirculate water around the cooler.
Wow, the pump cools the water by 5 degrees.
The pump is a Little Giant and pumps a ton of water. It probably can pump
5 gals in a few minutes.

I found out that someone makes a saucepan stirrer and also was looking at an
ice cream maker for a stirrer.
 
For those with a stirrer in their eHLT, how much stirring is necessary ?
I could use my pump instead of a stirrer but I wouldn't want to pump
too long due to temp loss.

I was playing with my pump to recirculate water around the cooler.
Wow, the pump cools the water by 5 degrees.
The pump is a Little Giant and pumps a ton of water. It probably can pump
5 gals in a few minutes.

I found out that someone makes a saucepan stirrer and also was looking at an
ice cream maker for a stirrer.

My system uses a pump. Its a domestic water recuriculator rated up to 220* I believe. I built a system for a friend that uses a small gear motor I put a copper paddle on the end and it actually makes a vortex in a full keg. Both methods work great. I keep my pump circulating for the whole brew. I dont notice much loss. Once I reach temp the element kicks on very seldom.

Here is a shot of my pump:

20100515_14.JPG


And the overall HLT:

20100515_13.JPG
 
I like that Taco! Do you know of any other pumps that would work for brewing? I thought that March was the only option, so I'm kind of surprised to see something that's cheaper.
 
kevink said:
I like that Taco! Do you know of any other pumps that would work for brewing? I thought that March was the only option, so I'm kind of surprised to see something that's cheaper.

I don't own a March. My workhorse is a little giant and I have a low temp mag drive Dayton (from grainger) that I use post chiller.
 
Back
Top