Do I want an eHLT ?

[adam01]

I've been getting tired of the instability of the water temp for mashing and for sparging. I use a jet burner to heat water, but it always seems to be just not the right temp.

I was wondering if there was an electric HLT that I could just fill with water and heat
the water to a specific temperature.

Seeing this forum, I see there are several, but usually as part of a complete electric brewery.

Would just an eHLT be good enough, or would I be wanting something more later ?
Anybody with experience in this decision ?

Thanks.

 

[onthekeg]

I started with an eHLT and used it for my boil kettle as well for a couple years.

 

[BrewBarron]

I use an EHLT and propane for my kettle. I highly recommend an EHLT. Can't beat just programming a temp and walking away to do something else. I am also in no rush to complete the all electric upgrade. I really enjoy my system and probably won't think about changing it unless I decide to go bigger. Even then, not sure I would change the hybrid system.

 

[P-J]

Subscribed to the thread.

 

[rosier9]

I started with the eHLT and a propane bk. The eHLT works great, and it's cheap and easy to build! The eHLT can be built using 110v if you don't have 220v readily available. I think most of us eventually move on to a completely electric system, but an eHLT is a great starting point that can easily be incorporated at a later point.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

My eHLT has two 2000 watt elements built in. That heats my mash and sparge water pretty fast. The elements are manually controlled now.

When I get around to it, I'm adding automatic temperature control and will use the eHLT as part as a HERMS setup, too.

 

[Walker]

I have just one electric kettle, and I use it as my HLT at the start of the session and then use it for the boil kettle after the mash is done.

 

[AiredAle]

I love my PID controlled eHLT. It is part of a complete electric system, but doesn't need to be. Mine is also controlled by a timer stolen from a coffee maker, so it comes on while I am still sleeping and is at temp waiting for me to mash in before breakfast.

 

[acefaser]

I love my PID controlled eHLT. It is part of a complete electric system, but doesn't need to be. Mine is also controlled by a timer stolen from a coffee maker, so it comes on while I am still sleeping and is at temp waiting for me to mash in before breakfast.

Great idea. I may have to incorporate something like that into my build.

 

[AiredAle]

Thanks, I also wired a level switch into the eHLT control circuit so I won't dry fire the element when I forget to turn it off as I drain the water. So far it has saved the element twice in six brews on the new system....

 

[watersr]

This is what I really want to do. Anyone have plans for one using 110 and being very basic and cheap? I have a 10 gal cooler or a 5 gal SS kettle I could use. Any thoughts on which would be best?

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

This is what I really want to do. Anyone have plans for one using 110 and being very basic and cheap? I have a 10 gal cooler or a 5 gal SS kettle I could use. Any thoughts on which would be best?

The 10 gallon cooler. You need more than 5 gallons available.

 

[BrewBarron]

watersr,

Check out my Hybrid Brew Rig in my signature. Make sure to click on Evilgnome6's link at the bottom of the thread. Great plans to make a 110 system on the cheap.

AiredAle,

Any details on your level switch? I've burned out one element and almost lost another. Sounds like good insurance.

 

[Walker]

I know the question wasn't directed at me, but here is the float switch I use:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Liquid-Level-Float-Stainless-Steel-Switch-Sensor-/260817815936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb9f40980

I picked that one after *almost* buying a plastic one that was 3x the price. I run the SSR control signal from the PID through that thing before connecting to the SSR.

 

[BrewBarron]

Thanks Walker,

I'll have to see if that is going to work in my cooler. I'm sure it will, just have to decide if I want to drill another hole in it. Nice price though.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

I know the question wasn't directed at me, but here is the float switch I use:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Liquid-Level-Float-Stainless-Steel-Switch-Sensor-/260817815936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb9f40980

I picked that one after *almost* buying a plastic one that was 3x the price. I run the SSR control signal from the PID through that thing before connecting to the SSR.

I've been eyeballing those switches in case I want to add a Grant to my rig. I'm always afraid to walk away when the pump is running, in case the flow gets stuck.

 

[kevink]

Hey Walker,

What's the thread size on that thing? I assume it's not pipe thread, right? I'm wondering how it could be used in a non-weldless configuration. Is the first nut (the one closer to the float) permanently attached or can it spin up and down the threads, too?

 

[Walker]

I'll have to see if that is going to work in my cooler. I'm sure it will, just have to decide if I want to drill another hole in it. Nice price though.

The threaded post on there isn't long enough to go all the way through the insulated double wall of a cooler. You would have to cut away a piece of the outer shell and insulation in order to install in through just the inner wall of the thing.

What's the thread size on that thing? I assume it's not pipe thread, right? I'm wondering how it could be used in a non-weldless configuration. Is the first nut (the one closer to the float) permanently attached or can it spin up and down the threads, too?

I am not sure what the exact type/size of threading is, but I know that it's not pipe threaded. The hex shaped piece closest to the float is fixed in place and does not move. I think I had to drill an 1/4" hole in the kettle for it. I don't remember specifically.... I just drilled it out a bit at a time until the post fit through the hole.

 

[kevink]

I am not sure what the exact type/size of threading is, but I know that it's not pipe threaded. The hex shaped piece closest to the float is fixed in place and does not move. I think I had to drill an 1/4" hole in the kettle for it. I don't remember specifically.... I just drilled it out a bit at a time until the post fit through the hole.

Does the hex look like its welded to the tube or just pressed on? I'm wondering if it's possible for fluid to get between the two.

Thanks!

 

[kpr121]

I have a 2000W element in a 5 gallon pot. It works for normal 5 gallon batches if you increase your mash water/grist ratio and/or do a double batch sparge. Since going to 10 gallons, I use it to heat the strike water (usually do not need more than 5 gallons) and also as supplement hot water if I need to adjust mash temp, or to do a mashout. The rest of the sparge is heated in my BK, drained into a bucket until sparge time.

Its definitely a juggling act, so I would recommend going with 10 gallons to begin with. I will probably move to a sankey eHLT at some point, probably when I can find someone who wants to buy the 5 gallon one off me. I originally bought the 5 gallon pot thinking I would never do anything other than partial boils. Now that the sickness has taken hold, I’m looking to do the biggest batches I can physically manage.

 

[Duckfoot]

I have been using an eHLT for a while now... 240vac with a 4500w element in an inverted keg... Love it...

 

[lschiavo]

For another option, here are the float switches I used. I liked the 1/2 threads.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MA...cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

 

[Walker]

Does the hex look like its welded to the tube or just pressed on? I'm wondering if it's possible for fluid to get between the two.

Thanks!

I'll have to look when I get home, but I am pretty sure it is welded on.

 

[watersr]

I have a 2000W element in a 5 gallon pot. It works for normal 5 gallon batches if you increase your mash water/grist ratio and/or do a double batch sparge. Since going to 10 gallons, I use it to heat the strike water (usually do not need more than 5 gallons) and also as supplement hot water if I need to adjust mash temp, or to do a mashout. The rest of the sparge is heated in my BK, drained into a bucket until sparge time.

Its definitely a juggling act, so I would recommend going with 10 gallons to begin with. I will probably move to a sankey eHLT at some point, probably when I can find someone who wants to buy the 5 gallon one off me. I originally bought the 5 gallon pot thinking I would never do anything other than partial boils. Now that the sickness has taken hold, I’m looking to do the biggest batches I can physically manage.

So how much you want for the 5 gal?

 

[adam01]

What did you do for a thermowell with the 1/4" probes (Johnson, ranco) ?
Does it fit in 1/4" stainless tubing like BF sells ?

I'm trying to decide if I should put the electrics in the lid or the cooler itself.
I was thinking that I could heat the water directly in the MLT for the strike water.
Then remove the lid and the electrics and put it onto the HLT to start the strike water.
I would have to have two (almost) matching coolers to do this.

Or putting it into the HLT and it being special purpose.
Has anyone combined the thermowell and sightglass into a single rubber stopper ?

Wow, the eHLT looks like a $150-200 project.

 

[AiredAle]

Sorry for the late reply. I used exactly the switch that Walker turned up on eBay. They are water proof when installed correctly - drill the right size hole and use the seal that comes with it. Mine is installed in a former keg, so only a thin wall to contend with instead of a thick walled cooler.

The float can be removed and reversed to make it open or close its circuit when the water level drops. Some are rated for DC and some for AC so read the eBay ad carefully. I got the AC rated one, and put it in the circuit between the PID controller and the relay that operates the element.

 

[kevink]

AiredAle, Can you tell me if the nut closest to the float is welded to the tube or is it possible for fluid to pass between the nut and the tube?

 

[Walker]

AiredAle, Can you tell me if the nut closest to the float is welded to the tube or is it possible for fluid to pass between the nut and the tube?

crap. I totally spaces on checking on this. I am walking out to the garage right now to look.

 

[Walker]

looks like it is welded on. but, even if it isn't... I'm not sure why you are concerned about liquid between the nut and the tube. There is a built-on nylon gasket on the thing that makes the whole thing liquid-tight when you install through the kettle wall.

 

[kevink]

Thanks, Walker! If it weren't welded on and liquid could get between them, it will probably leak as the nylon washer is most likely not going to make a seal on the threads.