Do i really need 5 packets of yeast?

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kybert

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Hi

All my recipes in the book i bought state 60g / 2oz of yeast. I bought a packet of yeast from the brew shop and its 11g, so i need 5 packets for a 5gal brew.

This cant be right?
 
No, usually one packet is just fine, unless it's a very high ABV beer. Some packets are 11 grams, though, and some are 6 grams. I'd use an 11 gram package and call it good!
 
What is the book and what is the recipe? We may be able to help you figure out what the author intended.

An 11g packet of dry yeast is usually sufficient for most normal gravity beers. With really large beers like barleywines and Imperial Stouts 2 packets is sometimes recommended.

It is possible that the book was referring to liquid yeast. Liquid yeast packs contain much fewer yeast cells by weight. 2oz sounds pretty close to what one of those packs weighs.

Craig
 
wow, you guys really are helpful! ok so heres the recipe:

alcohol 3.4%
OG and FG are not given.

3lb LME syrup
12oz crystal malt
1lb soft dark brown sugar
1.5oz Northern brewer hops
2oz goldings hops
1tsp irish moss
1 gal water
2oz brewers yeast
0.5tsp per pint white sugar

boil LME, malt and hops for 45min
strain off into bin and rinse with hot water.
add sugar (desolved in hot water) to bin.
top up to 5 gal with cold water

when cool, pitch yeast. ferment for 4-5 days, rack into secondary and leave for 14 days.

Rack into primed bottles and sample after 10 days.


what do you think? The book is from the 70s, but suposed to be revised in 1995.

I got nottingham yeast, as "brewers yeast" was not avaliable at the shop.
 
That's a very poorly formulated recipe. I would ditch that book and get something like Brewing Classic Styles.
 
its suposed to be an ale. Mr malty wants the og. i dont have that information so how did you get an answer?
 
I guessed at about 50 points (1.050).

That recipe doesn't look like anything spectacular, but I don't think it is awful either. I would boil as large a volume of water as you can reasonably handle. That 1 gallon boil will not help you any. Just be careful and watch your boil carefully for your first couple. It will boil over easily and make a massive mess. A spray bottle with some water in it will save the day.

Keep reading on here and you will pick up a lot.

Cheers :mug:
 
That recipe sounds like those you find in some of the "historical" homebrew books I've got like CJJ Berry's book and Dave Line's "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy". Pretty much every recipe in those are going to need to be modified for today's ingredients.

For example, if you brew that recipe up with 3.5 oz of boiling hops, you're going to have something that's going to be very, very bitter -- The recipe is low in malt, nothing to counteract that bitterness. Because hops' strengths have changed so much since the early 1970's, I suspect that your book is going to lead you astray in a whole bunch of ways.
 
the book is brewing beers like you buy -- page 54, greene king pale ale.

Oh dear. What book should i get? i also got designing great beers, and how to brew
 
I own this book and have brewed a bunch of batches of beer from it back in the late 80's early 90's. The all malt recipes are generally better than the extract recipes, and the author has a tendency to use a lot of adjuncts (esp. brown sugar in his recipes). Nevertheless, you can adapt them to make them come out quite well from a malt perspective. I generally used dry malt extract instead of the sugars he calls for.

On the other hand, virtually all of these beers come out too bitter if you use his hop levels. This is largely because hops are better processed and stored now than in the late 60's early 70's when the book was written. Also, our varieties have adapted to have higher AA levels making them more bitter. So if you take some of his recipes and put them into BeerSmith (software to calculate recipes), most of the mild ales come out having 25-40 IBU. Many Special and Best bitters from the book have upwards of 50-80 IBU -- again for English bitters, too hoppy and they won't taste like the beer they are mean to imitate.

So I'd aim for using ~2/3rds the hops called for many of the recipes -- you'll still be over the conventional IBU level for most style, but it will be drinkable.

Good luck!
 
Just put down the one you are referring to and read Palmer's "How To Brew" cover to cover and you will know everything you need to know.... for the most part. IMHO, that is the proverbial "homebrewer's bible" in most respects. Then you can move into Designing Great Beers after you get a bit of experience under your belt.
 
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