Do I need a ball valve on a chugger pump?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rugrad02

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
207
Reaction score
13
Location
Wilmington, NC
Hey everyone ,

I'm in the process of getting my hands on a chugger pump for use only to transfer my hot sparge water into my mash tun. I use a keggle as a sparge water tank which has a 1/2 ball valve. Could I simply put 2 coupling and 2 barbs as opposed to a ball valve on one of the pump ends?

So, hot sparge water would flow out of the ball valve on my keggle and down into the pump and then out and up into my mash tun via two sections of silicone hose. Would I need hose clamps on both ends if I do it this way or would I definitely need a ball valve? Thanks!




Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
The only reason you would need a ball valve on the output of the pump is if you want to regulate the flow. If you want full flow all the time, which it sounds like you're good with, then you don't need a valve there.
 
You need to control the flow from the output, not the input. You could move your ball valve to the pump outlet, and connect the pump directly to your kettle (you probably need a coupling depending on what your HLT fitting is setup like. I really suggest having a ball valve on the pump outlet, I would say the valve on the HLT outlet (pump inlet) is less important.
 
I would think to be able to sparge with it you would need to restrict the flow on the output to match the flow of wort coming out of the mash tun. It will come out way too fast and disrupt the grain bed otherwise.
 
I should have mentioned that I am batch sparging. I use a double batch sparge method. I'm just tired of lifting a keg full of hot water. I guess I could get away without a ball valve as my goal is to get as much hot water into my mash tun in as short a time as possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Definitely want a valve on your output. It will flow too fast without one and you need a way to purge the air from the line so your pump is flooded with liquid. These pumps have to be flooded with liquid before you turn them on.


Sent from my KFTT using Home Brew mobile app
 
I should have mentioned that I am batch sparging. I use a double batch sparge method. I'm just tired of lifting a keg full of hot water. I guess I could get away without a ball valve as my goal is to get as much hot water into my mash tun in as short a time as possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew


If this is your goal there is no need for a valve on the pump. you can use the valve on the hlt to prime the pump. I think that everyone is responding with how it works in their system instead of what you're looking to do. I agree with them that having the valve on the outlet of the pump adds a lot more flexibility. For how easy it is to put on, and relatively low cost, it might be worth your while to do it however for what you want to do right now it is definitely not necessary.
 
Mine is alot easier to prime if I start with the output ball valve ball nearly closed when turning the pump on. No idea why.
 
Back
Top