Do I lose hop aroma if boiled for sanitation after straining?

[jeffmesa369]

Say a recipe calls for hops at 5 mins before flame out and I strain after flame out. Then reboil for 10-15 mins just to rid the chance of any issues that may arise due to straining, will I lose the aromas sought out by the hops that should only boiled for 5 mins?

 

[Yooper]

Say a recipe calls for hops at 5 mins before flame out and I strain after flame out. Then reboil for 10-15 mins just to rid the chance of any issues that may arise due to straining, will I lose the aromas sought out by the hops that should only boiled for 5 mins?

Yes, they will be "15 minute" hop additions, or maybe longer if you didn't chill right after. The beer will be more bitter, as the hops oils will isomerize more fully than a later addition of hops.

I've never heard of anybody finishing a boil, and then reboiling the wort. That's a new one to me. I am trying to picture why that would be done, but I have no idea at all. Just sanitize a strainer (although you don't even need a strainer, but if you are going to use one, just sanitize it) and use it after you cool the wort.

 

[jeffmesa369]

Unsanitized tools came into contact with wort while straining and I didnt want to take a chance. If you were to guess, in a ~5 gl batch(~5 oz hops), how much beer am I saving by straining apposed to leaving them in there? Another thing about leaving them in there, which I have done before, how is it that the unstrained hops dont impart any extra hoppiness(or do they)? How is it different then dry hopping?

 

[Yooper]

Unsanitized tools came into contact with wort while straining and I didnt want to take a chance. If you were to guess, in a ~5 gl batch(~5 oz hops), how much beer am I saving by straining apposed to leaving them in there? Another thing about leaving them in there, which I have done before, how is it that the unstrained hops dont impart any extra hoppiness(or do they)? How is it different then dry hopping?

I don't strain my wort, and I have maybe 1/4-1/3" inch of trub in the fermenter when I rack to the bottling bucket. I save it, as I save and reuse yeast. I use a lot of hops as I make a ton of pale ales and IPAs.

Dryhopping is totally different- the hops oils are not isomerized and it gives a great aroma. I dryhop for 3-5 days right before packaging.

 

[SleepyCreekBrews]

Are you straining your wort because of hot break material, or hops?, or both? Honestly , I can't imagine a reason to strain wort before fermenting ...unless you dropped an old sock in it.

Edit: scratch the question. I see the mention of hops. If you really don't want all that material in your fermenter (harmless btw) do what the rest of us do, and whirlpool the wort at the end of the boil to make a cone and separate the hop/break material.

 

[chickypad]

I've tried a number of different ways over the years and IME you don't really save that much wort by straining. If you strain the hops will still have absorbed a little wort, if you dump it all in stuff will compact down, and you lose a little wort. I think I lost the most wort trying to whirlpool then leave that junk in the kettle. The higher the hop bill the more wort lost but that's with all methods. If you're harvesting yeast or for some other reason want to keep stuff out of the fermenter go ahead and strain, but I wouldn't count on it to save you a ton on volume over just dumping it all in.

 

[Chanoc]

I don't strain my wort, and I have maybe 1/4-1/3" inch of trub in the fermenter when I rack to the bottling bucket. I save it, as I save and reuse yeast. I use a lot of hops as I make a ton of pale ales and IPAs.

Dryhopping is totally different- the hops oils are not isomerized and it gives a great aroma. I dryhop for 3-5 days right before packaging.

Does this means you do not whirlpool and collect wort with hop gunk and break material?
I try to remove as much as possible but I don´t lose sleep over any getting to my fermenter.

 

[Yooper]

Does this means you do not whirlpool and collect wort with hop gunk and break material?
I try to remove as much as possible but I don´t lose sleep over any getting to my fermenter.

I have to bag leaf (whole) hops because they clog up my pumps, but otherwise everything goes to the fermenter. Since I have a CFC, that includes cold break as well. It does compact down more than you'd think, so I never worry about it.

 

[jeffmesa369]

I don't strain my wort, and I have maybe 1/4-1/3" inch of trub in the fermenter when I rack to the bottling bucket. I save it, as I save and reuse yeast. I use a lot of hops as I make a ton of pale ales and IPAs.

Dryhopping is totally different- the hops oils are not isomerized and it gives a great aroma. I dryhop for 3-5 days right before packaging.

I've tried a number of different ways over the years and IME you don't really save that much wort by straining. If you strain the hops will still have absorbed a little wort, if you dump it all in stuff will compact down, and you lose a little wort. I think I lost the most wort trying to whirlpool then leave that junk in the kettle. The higher the hop bill the more wort lost but that's with all methods. If you're harvesting yeast or for some other reason want to keep stuff out of the fermenter go ahead and strain, but I wouldn't count on it to save you a ton on volume over just dumping it all in.

preciate the responses. in future i wont strain assuming i have a way to cool fast because what i am taking away is that if it stays warm it will continue to leech from the hops. When i do strain i have a bag big enough to press the hops and i get that extra wort they have absorbed, is that a no no? thanks for all the help!

 

[chickypad]

When I use a hop spider on my smaller kettle I squeeze, with my big kettle I usually just clip to the side and let it drain as I drain the wort from the bottom.