DIY - Self Contained Efficient Immersion Cooler

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I was reading the article posted by Peter Cotton on his no chill brewing. I had no idea of just how the water restrictions in Australia could affect home brewing. I personally have been doing an ice bath for years, but wanted to move up to an immersion chiller to quicken the cool down to reduce my brew day. Peter’s methods works for him but there is a lot of work, cost and time delay involved. I recalled conversations of friends in South Carolina who had issues with the ground water being too warm to be effective. Plus there is all that water that goes to waste. There had to be a better solution, so I had a home brew and thought about what I could do that was compact, cost effective and efficient.

Building the Cooling System for Your Wort


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First I decided an immersion chiller over a cold plate was for me. Less cleaning, hassle, and if you make it yourself, a significant cost reduction. A 20ft coil of 3/8 soft copper tubing is less than $15 at a Big Box Store, maybe a bit more at a home improvement store. It’s already coiled so half the work is done for you. Simply take out the coil and hand separate it into a long slinky type thing. I slipped it over a paint can and hand tightened the coils up to make a pretty good facsimile of what you buy in your LHBS. I then took a copper tubing bender to make the 90degree bends. If you don’t have one, then another trip to your Big Box Store can get you a Brasscraft tube bender that does 3 sizes for less than $13. Slip some 3/8 nylon tubing over each end, hose clamp it and you are done (and remember to check your hose clamps before brew day).
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Above left is my Homemade Immersion Cooler, and the Right is one from a LHBS. The store bought one is $70 and I made mine including tubing, clamps and hose for less than $18. If you don’t have a bending tool you can borrow or purchase one. I purposely expanded my coils to get more surface area available which is why it looks a little different than the LHBS one. If you want to get technical, you can focus the most of your coils as the top for maximum cooling efficiency.

How the Recirculating Immersion Chiller Works


Notice mine does not have the faucet ends and we won’t be needed them. We will be recirculating chilled water so there will be no waste. The idea is simple-take a cooler and put in a submersible fountain/sump pump. Fill the cooler with water and a bunch of those re-freezable blu-gels that you use in a lunchbox or cooler. This cuts down on the water needed and helps to maintain the water temp. Now you also have a reusable source of "ice" for your chilling water. The pump outlet goes into one of the immersion cooler tubes and the other immersion cooler tube will go back into the cooler. Turn the pump on and cold water goes from the pump into the immersion cooler in your kettle and back out into the cooler. The hot water goes back into the cooler and if you have enough blu-gels the water will be cool enough to quickly and efficiently bring the temp down in your wort.

Have the Right Pump


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This is all fine and good but what about the pump? It needs to be water proof, have the GPM required to do a decent heat transfer, have enough Maximum Head Lift in order to work. Maximum Head Lift is the height the pump can move the water above the pump. This is important especially if you have multiple tiers in your brew system. If you go above the maximum Head Lift, the water will simply not pump. So this was the one item that could be costly enough to not go this route. Fortunately, Harbor Freight is your friend, and while their tools may not be suitable for professional or everyday use, you can however get a lot of value in what they do have. I purchased a Pacific Hydrostar fountain pump at Harbor Freight for $16. It is water proof, can pump at 264 GPH and has 4.6ft of head lift. This means that the pump is capable of pumping water 4.6ft above the water level which is plenty for my purposes.

Answering the Questions


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So can this cool down liquid from a boil to pitchable temp? Will the cooler water become too warm from the heat transfer? Will I have to add ice or more frozen blu-gels? And finally will it be quicker than an ice bath? The only way to find out was to test it. For the test I used my Thermoworks Smoke dual probe digital fast read thermometer and a kettle with 4 gallons of boiling water. Because of the outside temp being below freezing I choose to boil on my stove and use indoor temps to not have the outdoor ambient temp affect the test results, which is why I only used 4 gallons of water. I used one Probe in the cooler to monitor the temp rise and the other in the kettle to monitor the temp fall. Here is what I found out.
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After 1 minute the wort was 165 degrees and the cooler was 42 degrees.
After 8 minutes the wort was now 98 degrees but the wort was 79 degrees.
At this point the thermal energy from the wort to the cooler was slowing due to the rise in the temp of the cooler. I should have swapped out the blu-gels for frozen ones to bring the cooler temp down. But since I had not frozen any more I continued to see how far I could go with this diminished heat transfer.
At the 13 minute mark the wort was 89 degrees and the cooler was 78.
There was no more thermal energy that could be passed in a reasonable amount of time at this point. I believe if I swapped out the blu-gels when the water was above 50 degrees I could cool the wort to pitching temperature in less than 10 minutes only using a total of 5 gallons of water. If I found a more efficient cooler like the 5 gallon igloo one I used in a previous article, I believe I could pack more blu-gels due to the container being taller than wider, and use less water to still cover the blu-gels. When I was done with the experiment I put the water in my rain barrel to be used to water the plants in the yard. In my opinion the experiment was a success. I will have to try it with a swap out of the blu-gels and my new kettle with the tangential whirlpool port which will circulate the wort for better thermal transfer.
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The trick with this is to save your ice bottles for the end of the chill.
I prep a cooler full of frozen bottles, plus a second large bucket filled with cold water. The cold water gets the temp down to around 50c/120f after which point it's too warm to be of further use.
Then move the pump to the cooler with the ice bottles and this gets you the rest of the way a lot faster since the ice bottles remain viable for longer.
 
My plan is to swap out the freeze packs with more or frozen water bottles. I monitor the temp of the cooler so I know when I need to "ice" it down. I saw almost a 50 degree drop in 1 minute. By keeping the cooler temp in the 40 degree range I believe I can get to pitching temp in about 3 minutes.
Because I did not plan for this sudden heat transfer and was not ready for a second go at icing I did not have anything frozen to swap. My goal was to keep the amount of water for cooling in the 5 gallon range and to only use one cooler.
This is part of my overall brew tower build so I dont have room for a second cooler and I would rather not deal with swapping coolers fro the space on the tower for the cooler.
thanks for the comments!
 
Hey George,
Thanks for the write-up. I will be giving this a whirl for my next brew. Being on a well, I like the idea of conserving water. I have an immersion chiller that I made years ago, so will just pull the hose fitting and hook it up to a pump in a cooler. Great idea.
Cheers!
Chris
 
Run the first couple of minutes of return water to a container for cleaning, instead of your cooler. This will keep your reservoir water colder longer and give you nice warm water for cleaning.
 
It help to bring a little bit of math to the table. To bring a pot of wort from cool to boil takes a specific amount of Energy (KJ). When you chill (boiling to cool), you have to take that same amount of energy out with ice-water. There are transfer-rates for melting ice and that would permit you to size your body of ice needed (don't forget to round up the amount of ice to account for losses). Below is a website with some primitive math that demonstrates formulas involded: https://www.mansfieldct.org/Schools/MMS/staff/hand/countingcalories.htm
hth
 
Hey George,
Very practical article with great use of heat transfer concepts. Couple of suggestions from a neophite maltster and craft beer proponent.
1/ Pumps 101 - a pump is rated for maximum feet of head for pumping water. Use any other fluid and you must make a density correction. We are using water so no correction required. A pump is rated for maximum feet of head (equivalent to available pressure), but that occurs at zero flow. As if you blocked the outlet of the pump and determined the pressure at the outlet. The point being, that there is pressure loss in the tubing as the fluid flows through it. The longer the tubing, the more connections and the smaller the tube diameter, the more pressure loss. This will eat up the available head that the pump delivers and the result is very low flowrate. Heat transfer is directly related to flow rate. ( Reynolds law - look it up !)
Recommendations: minimize your tube length for delivery to the immersion heater, use larger diameter tubing. Keep the height of tubing to a minimum so all the head is not pushing against gravity but instead maximizing flowrate and hence FASTER cool down times.
Heat transfer 101: Another suggestion to maximize your heat transfer is to not return the hot water back to the cooler with the ice in it. That is counter productive and defeats the purpose of chilling all those ice packs. Drain it to a separate bucket and run a bath, make tea or pour it in your laundry washing machine ( in the interest of not wasting water or energy). Keep your cooler topped up with cold tap water as the pump is drawing down the level.
I think both these improvements will further reduce your already excellent wort cool down times and get you pitching your yeast in time to throw the laundry in the dryer ! ( or will you be hanging it outside ....lol )
Good luck
 
I use my ground water out the tap, to bring it down to 150, the how water goes into the rinsed out mash tun. Mix with PBW and that becomes my cleaning solution.
Then I switch over to a cooler filled with a bag of ice and a pond pump. Takes about 30 minutes being in Florida. Our ground water is about 70f.
Working on another setup which should speed it up a bit.
 
Since you are using the water for your yard and not wasting it, it would be much more efficient to run your exhaust water to fill a 5-gallon bucket then move it to your cooler for recirculating it. Plus, that 180F exhaust water is great for cleaning.
 
Not needed in Winter, but come summer, out ground water in TN definitely is warm enough to cause delays in wort chilling.
To help with the cooling towards the end when things start slowing down, I keep several 2lt bottles full of frozen water (kept in a chest freezer). I cut the bottom of the bottle with a razor knife, and drop the giant ice blocks into the cooler water. Any container full of frozen water will do- just remember you want volume. To me, this is easier than having all those blue ice things. I feel cutting the bottle away adds a bit quicker cooling as well, and you can def see when the ice is gone as opposed to having a bottle floating around.
This finishes up the last few minutes quite a bit quicker so you can pitch yeast and get that nectar-of-the-gods into your fermenter.
 
Excellent article George. For my very next brew I'm pretty much copying your setup here. I've been messing around with an ice bath in the kitchen sink, which is pretty slow (a half hour for a three gallon pot). Thanks!
 
I've been doing this with 2 litre ice blocks (ice cream containers where I live) and just enough water to keep the pump intake from sucking air, works a charm with about 30 litres total water used.
Been considering getting a second copper coil and doing closed circuit glycol between the BK and a tank of ice cubes and salt. With the ice coming from a -17C deep freeze and enough salt, the slush will be between -5C and -10C and it should get the wort colder even faster. Just got to make sure it doesn't get cold enough to freeze the glycol. And get a dedicated pump instead of the borrowed pond pump currently in use.
 
I am glad it helps. reading Peter's article made me think that a water conservation method might be of interest
 
Thats a great idea! I need some warm water for that anyway
thanks
 
very cool (pun intended!) As an engineer I like to add the proper math for the proof LOL!
Obviously as the temps get close together you cannot transfer that thermal energy quickly
My first go to was to replace the frozen gels with more to keep the cooler temp as low as possible. I have a freezer full and when done I simply refreeze but I am glad there is some simple math to guesstimate the amount of frozen gels I need
thanks
 
in the brew system I am building (future article) I am using about 4 ft of tubing per side so I am trying to minimize that distance. I did not want to have to insulate the cold line (which is another way to correct for the thermal loss
I know returning the water is counter productive but the experiment's requirement was to use the least amount of water. I guess I could put it thru a car heater coil with a fan on it to try to extract thermal energy before it returns to the cooler
thanks for the input!
 
Let me now how it turns out!
many ways to skin the proverbial cat ;)
good luck
 
thats a thought because I like to reuse my water. I would need to refill the cooler but most times the tap water is cool enough.
thanks for the input!
 
I used to do that with zip locks. make a bunch and use those for my ice bath. I have also started to fill disposable water bottles with water and freeze them. Keeping them till they thaw and then putting back in the freezer when done to reuse is not that time consuming. I have a bunch of the blu-gels for camping. I make a dry cooler by lining it with them so its cool but no water save for any condensation so I had them available and they actually work better than frozen water
thanks for the input!
 
thats how I started. Since its not a full 5 gallon I used to sanitize zip locs, fill with water and freeze. Then for cool down slice them open and plop the ice right in. It melts and brings the wort closer to the 5 gallon mark. Adding ice from a sanitized container really helped with the time
That became a pain when I started to do full boils so I needed something like this
 
If I was doing more than a 5 gallon batch i would probably do that
Or put a secondary immersion cooler in a bucket of ice water on the return line to pre-chill the return water
I think for my purposes this method will get my wort to pitching temp in less than 5 minutes
I am getting ready to try it on my next brew day and see how long it takes with enough replacement frozen vessels
thanks for the input!
 
Very relevant article! I love the choice of topic! Southern California has had water restrictions for little while too. I have a swimming pool that needs to get backfilled for evaporation anyway. So, I just use my chilling water to fill the pool.
it may help to consider sharkbite fittings or something rather than hose clamps...i forgot to tighten mine once--the amount of 100psi hosewater that shot into the wort wasnt pretty.
 
ooof...thats sounds like a total loss of good beer!
I will have to look into those. Although the fountain pump is very low PSI by comparison
thanks for the idea
 
How did you connect the chiller tubing to the pump? What size is your tubing?
 
I made my own recirculating system using a regular large beverage cooler and an immersion cooler. I just used a sump pump and it worked great.
About a week or two before brew day I start filling empty aluminum craft brew cans with water and freeze them.
Saves on the amount if ice you need to buy and us a convenient what to store the ice.
Simple system and saves a lot of water and time.
Cheers
 
its 3/8" tubing and the pump has a hose barb that is stepped so it accepts a few different sizes. The plastic barb screws into the outlet of the pump (all the fittings came with the pump). The intake on the pump is all around the base. The return line (hot) just goes into the top of the cooler.
Its like taking any immersion cooler with hoses and cutting off the faucet fitting and clamping it onto a hose barb of the pump
 
I had the gel packs anyway so I used them. I have been collecting water bottles for the same purpose. I will simply refreeze them when they thaw. I want to keep it as compact as I can and use as little water as possible. I dont count the water in the bottles as i will reuse them. I started on my wooden brew sculpture and made all of this to fit the small form factor of the sculpture. I will write another article on the sculpture and how this integrates. Right now I am wiring up some controls and the steel head pump. The key it to let gravity help as much as possible. I am hoping to keep it small enough so that I only need a step stool not a ladder to reach the top of the tun. We will see....
 
I've been using a very similar system for the last couple of years now. The only difference, I cut the top off plastic milk cartons and fill the bottom with water and place these in the freezer. Once frozen I removed the ice and store in the lower section of the freezer. I repeat this process until I have 20 very large ice cubes (approx. 1/3 gal). This is enough for me to get my wort to 56F (lager pitch temp). The great thing is I use the same water over and over.
 
Thats the key- water conservation!
The new Blichman Therminator claims that 10 gal of wort can be chilled to pitching temp with this device that uses 5 gal/min 58 degree water in 5 min. So thats 25 gallons of water IF your groundwater temp is 58 degrees!! Hence this experiment to get by with less water especially for those with warmer ground water. Its cool to see how others are dealing with this issue and I have seen some great innovations and comments
I plan on using water bottles cause they stack well in the freezer and never have to be opened. Just take the thawed ones out and refreeze
 
Good system and ideas. I have one simple modification I would recommend on your immersion chiller. Put a "U" bend on the input and output so that any leak at the hose clamp runs back down the hose and not into your wort. Since you are re-circulating the cooling water into a large container with gel packs it may not be very sanitary and you could possibly introduce bad things into your chilled, cold side wort. I wouldn't worry about it much with tap water, which is probably fairly clean..
 
I do something similar to this. I use 15 gallons of water, all of which gets captured and reused, plus a 5lb bag of ice and 2 frozen 2l bottles, to cool my average 5 gal brew batch, using a similar cheap submersible fountain pump.
I fill three 5 gallon buckets with "cold" water from the tap (74 degrees last I checked), and pour them one at a time into another bucket which has the pump. The outflow is captured into other buckets on the other end for reuse. Nothing goes down the drain. Two buckets (10 gal) of my "barely cold" tap water get the wort down to nearly 100 degrees. Then the third bucket goes in and the outflow goes into the pump bucket to recirculate. Adding ice sooner means the relatively high temp of the tap water kills your ice far too quickly to do enough good. At the high wort temps, the temperature differential from plain tap water does the job just fine. You wouldn't see a huge difference in cooling time by using colder water, but once your ice is melted, cooling the wort the rest of the way with warmer water is a very slow process due to the small temp differential.
Using my method with a generic 25' copper coil immersion chiller, I consistently get my wort down from boiling temp to 85 degrees in a half hour. Transferring the wort from the boil pot to the fermentation vessel (and accompanying aeration) drops it another 5 degrees to 80, which is my normal pitching temp.
Here are some notes from my last brew session, starting when the boil ends:
0:00 turn off heat and begin pumping bucket #1 water though the cooler.
0:05 wort temp is 165
0:10 wort temp is 135
0:15 wort temp is 110
Add water as needed. You'll be working on the 2nd bucket by now. (I didn't log the exact transition point)
At this point I make sure the ice is staged and ready. When the wort temp hits 100, I put the ice in the pump bucket, and move the outflow hose to the pump bucket as well, to recirculate the water. No addition water is used for cooling.
0:20 wort temp is 100, add ice.
0:25 wort temp is 95
0:30 wort temp is 85
Begin Transfer to fermentation chamber.
After the yeast is pitched, I have three 5 gal buckets of water at varying temps (from quite hot, to tepid) on hand, for cleanup, watering plants, laundry, whatever.
 
I was able to get from boil to 165 in 1 minute and the cooler was still 42 degrees
After 8 minutes the wort was now 98 degrees but the cooler was 79 degrees (way too warm)
I am trying to use the least amount of water possible (right now 4 gal total). But I see your point on the first run thru the immersion cooler being too hot and yes hot water is always needed for clean up. Maybe i will try 1 gal for clean up water then the SCEIC and see if that helps with gel utilization.
I have not done a 2nd test with an exchange of frozen gel-packs when the temp gets too warm yet. I plan to try that very soon and will report back
thanks for the input!
 
I used an ice pack water bucket pump driven recirc method until recently when I just started hooking up the garden hose to my immersion chiller. I found no matter how much ice or packs I had saved up beforehand ,once the outer portion of the packs or gallon jugs became melted , the ice chunk inside was no longer effective and it would just recirc warm water and take forever. My garden hose hook-up is less of a hassle ,definitely faster chilling...20 minutes from boiling temp to 90*F.
I would suggest to those who might be asking "why waste the water" ...simply run the chiller inline to your sprinkler and let the kids have fun in the summer or water your lawn/garden while you're chilling your wort. Prost!
 
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