DIY Mash Tun

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HopheadNJ

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I'm going to be creating a 10 gallon round cooler mash tun. I've found Flyguy's write up and plan on following his direction. My question is, what kind of difference would I see using a false bottom as opposed to the steel braid? Is it worth spending the $ on a false bottom? I'm itching to go all grain, but need to get my gear together!
 

RockfordWhite

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Some people have had success with a braid, i tried it once or twice and had alot of problems, idk if i did something wrong or whatever... anyways, due to this i converted to a FB... To each their own...
 

Synovia

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Some people have had success with a braid, i tried it once or twice and had alot of problems, idk if i did something wrong or whatever... anyways, due to this i converted to a FB... To each their own...
You did something wrong.



If you're going batch sparge, it doesn't make one lick of difference what you use. If you're gonna fly sparge, you really need a FB.
 

humann_brewing

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I started out with a 10G round cooler and false bottom. I am currently am putting together a 5G model to do smaller experimental batches and I initially bought all the materials for the SS braid but took it all back and decided to go all stainless with another false bottom.

I am biased but I love the false bottom and I know it costs more but it is worth it and I don't really know how much of a factor it is for the efficiency but my is pretty damn good not that it matters but you just need to have your system dialed in so you can base recipes off the same efficiency every time. I also batch sparge.

P.S. that is one big hop in your hand
 

rico567

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I did the Rubbermaid Home Depot 10 gal cooler, with the Bargain Fittings conversion kit, including the large diameter braid. It works great, lauters like a whiz. For those who batch sparge, I can't imagine bothering with anything else. It's cheap, easy to clean, and performs well. I'm hitting all my efficiencies, the beer is great. What more can I say?
 

android

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have you considered making a manifold out of copper? you can get a short piece of copper for not much money that should be plenty of pipe for making a manifold... mine has never had any problem whatsoever. i can't speak for fly sparging, but for batch sparging, no problems.
 

The Pol

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Well, it really depends on how you plan to sparge.

If you plan to batch sparge, it doesnt make a lick of difference if it is a FB, manifold or a braid. You see, you have no channeling issues, no issues if over and under sparging the grain bed, because when you batch sparge you stir the grain.

IF you are going to fly sparge, you will be much better off getting a falsie, as it will very evenly sparge the grain bed. With a braid, you will get plenty of channeling. If you use a manifold you have to properly construct it so reduce the incidence of channeling. If you use a falsie... no issues as it has uniform drainage from the entire grain bed.

Here is some more info on the topic of methods and equipment:
Sparging Methods | Brewer's Friend
Lautering Equipment False Bottom vs Manifold | Brewer's Friend
 

scotsmn30

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I use a manifold and have no problems at all with channeling and fly sparging. Cost for a manifold made it a lock for me. $5.99 for 4' 1/2" copper pipe and $.90 ea. for the corners and Ts at HD.
 

EvilGnome6

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I am biased but I love the false bottom and I know it costs more but it is worth it and I don't really know how much of a factor it is for the efficiency but my is pretty damn good not that it matters but you just need to have your system dialed in so you can base recipes off the same efficiency every time. I also batch sparge.
I went straight to a false bottom as well. Everything else just looks like a kludge, IMO.
 

nebben

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Another bump for 10G cooler with stainless false bottom. I'm still struggling to gain better efficiencies, but I suspect my process has everything to do with it.
 
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HopheadNJ

HopheadNJ

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False bottom seems like it may be worth the couple extra bucks. After pricing some things out, I may just purchase the 10gal all grain system from NorthernBrewer for $248+$8 s/h. Not sure if it's worth the running around to get parts, various shipping charges, and the time to assemble a DIY MLT/HLT to save a few bucks...
 

Synovia

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False bottom seems like it may be worth the couple extra bucks. After pricing some things out, I may just purchase the 10gal all grain system from NorthernBrewer for $248+$8 s/h. Not sure if it's worth the running around to get parts, various shipping charges, and the time to assemble a DIY MLT/HLT to save a few bucks...
Save a few bucks? Theres $80 worth of coolers there and $30 worth of brass.
 
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HopheadNJ

HopheadNJ

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Cheapest coolers I can find are $100 for 2x 10 gal. $40+s/h for the false bottom, +-$30 for hardware...$170 +shipping charges/running around & time to build. I think I'd rather get brewing right away than spend time gathering parts and building, to save $60-70. But at the same time, I've still gotta get a chiller and larger boil kettle so...
 

The Pol

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I use SS braid with fly sparge and have no problems.
Oh they can work, they just promote channeling, due to thier design. Fluid dynamics is always working against you then you fluid a path of least resistance.

Some have serious issues while using braids and fly sparging, manifolds and falsies are just better designed to achieve effective sparging while redeucing over and under sparging of the grain bed.

I would never recommend using a braid with fly sparging, it will work in some cases, but it is undeniable that manifolds and falsies are much better suited.
 

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