Ted Snarski
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2016
- Messages
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I have been kegging my beer for a while, now. One of the things I miss is the ease of sharing my beer. I used to just grab a bottle from the case and pass it along. So, I wanted to an easy way to be able to get back to sharing bottles. And it seems that bottle fillers are one of the best ways to go. I have wanted a bottle filler for a while now. I have used the Blichmann Beer Gun™ and looked at the Last Straw, too. I just couldn’t justify the $100 price tag, just to fill a few bottles. I made a simple counter pressure filler. It worked okay, but it didn’t give me the ease-of-use I was looking for. So, I decided to take a closer look at the designs of some bottle fillers and see what parts I might be able to get at the local hardware store or on Amazon. I discovered that most of the parts could be easily purchased. The ones that I could not find wouldn’t be that hard to make or modify from something that I could purchase. I played with design for a while and I combined some things that the other bottle fillers used with some ideas I found online from other people that like to tinker, like me. With my pile of parts and a “few trial and error” attempts, I came up with this setup. If you consider my time, I probably should have just bought one. But, that wouldn’t have been as much fun, even with the failures and cursing. Now, I can share it and maybe someone else can save some money.
This setup basically has two main assemblies, a gas side and a liquid side. I used a couple pieces of the vinyl tubing over the stainless steel tubes to hold them together. If you push them as far you can towards the ends, they will stretch a bit and tension will do a nice job of holding the pieces together. You could probably use a couple of “O” rings or clips, if you want a cleaner look. All the parts that touch the beer are either stainless steel or food grade plastic.
The gas side has the button valve in the middle and is adapted to a 1/4 flare on one side, that will connect to the coupling nut that would normally go to you ball or pin quick disconnect for the CO2. The other side has a couple adaptors to get the 1/4 button valve to a 1/8” compression adaptor. The 1/8 SS tube is bent in a couple places to allow it to be parallel to the liquid tube for most of its length, ending just short of the bottle filler tip.
The liquid end has the 1/4” tube, the bottle filler tip and a small piece of vinyl tubing. I used the vinyl tubing as a reducer to connect the bottle filler tip to the 1/4” tube. I could/should have used a 3/8” tube and skipped the reducer, but I already had the 1/4” tube and didn’t want to go out and buy another part. You could put a coupling on the end to adapt to the liquid line, but the 1/4” vinyl hose that I use on my liquid lines fit nice and snug. The Blichmann Beer Gun™ also uses the same type of press fit vinyl tube connection on their liquid line.
Setup
1. Connect the liquid line to you keg
2. Connect the gas line to your CO2 tank splitter
3. Turn the CO2 on your connection down to 2-3 PSI (this helps to avoid foaming)
4. De-gas your keg to let some of the pressure off (this helps to avoid foaming)
5. Chill the bottles (this helps to avoid foaming)
Use
1. Place the tip down “near” the bottom of you chilled bottle. Don’t press down on the tip, yet.
2. Press and hold the button for a few seconds to purge the oxygen and fill the bottle with CO2
3. Now, press down on the wand, so the bottle filler tip is pushed in and starts to fill the bottle.
4. Fill the bottle all the way to the top, then lift the filler to let the tip back to its closed position.
5. Cap the bottle
Fill your bottles in a sink, tub, tray, or bucket. With foaming and “little accidents” things can get messy, sometimes.
It’s okay to have a little foam over. In fact it is a good thing. If you cap on the foam, you will have the least chance of oxygen getting in your bottle.
Some people turn up their regulator a few PSI a day or a few hours before bottling, to compensate for any loss of carbonation when filling. This is not a bad idea, but you also risk getting too much foam when filling. If I had a beer that was supposed to be on the high end of the carbonation spectrum, I might do this.
Item | Measurements | Cost |
---|---|---|
Stainless Steel 304 Welded Tube | 1/8" OD, 0.093" ID, 0.016" Wall, 36" long (cut to 11.5”) | $7.70 |
Stainless Steel 304L Seamless Tube (recommended) | 3/8" OD, 0.277" ID, 12" Length | $8.18 |
OR | ||
Stainless Steel 304L Seamless Tube | 1/4" OD, 0.18" ID 12" Length | $5.09 |
Interstate Pneumatics VBT44 - Brass Button Valve | 1/4 Inch x 1/4 Inch Female NPT | $8.97 |
Brass Reducing Bushing | 1/4" x 1/8" | $1.09 |
MPT Adapter | 1/4" flare x 1/4" | $1.38 |
MPT Adapter | 1/8" compression x 1/8" | $2.93 |
Food Grade Vinyl Tubing | 5/16" ID 7/16" OD (2 pieces 1/2 inch long, cut) | $0.68 / ft |
Food Grade Vinyl Tubing (ONLY IF YOU USED 1/4" STEEL TUBE) | 1/4" ID 7/16" OD | $0.68 / ft |
Bottle filler with removable tip and spring | NA | $2.95 |
Total Cost | ||
$31.47 OR $33.88 |
This setup basically has two main assemblies, a gas side and a liquid side. I used a couple pieces of the vinyl tubing over the stainless steel tubes to hold them together. If you push them as far you can towards the ends, they will stretch a bit and tension will do a nice job of holding the pieces together. You could probably use a couple of “O” rings or clips, if you want a cleaner look. All the parts that touch the beer are either stainless steel or food grade plastic.
DIY Beer Gun Gas Side
The gas side has the button valve in the middle and is adapted to a 1/4 flare on one side, that will connect to the coupling nut that would normally go to you ball or pin quick disconnect for the CO2. The other side has a couple adaptors to get the 1/4 button valve to a 1/8” compression adaptor. The 1/8 SS tube is bent in a couple places to allow it to be parallel to the liquid tube for most of its length, ending just short of the bottle filler tip.
DIY Beer Gun Liquid Side
The liquid end has the 1/4” tube, the bottle filler tip and a small piece of vinyl tubing. I used the vinyl tubing as a reducer to connect the bottle filler tip to the 1/4” tube. I could/should have used a 3/8” tube and skipped the reducer, but I already had the 1/4” tube and didn’t want to go out and buy another part. You could put a coupling on the end to adapt to the liquid line, but the 1/4” vinyl hose that I use on my liquid lines fit nice and snug. The Blichmann Beer Gun™ also uses the same type of press fit vinyl tube connection on their liquid line.
How it Works
Setup
1. Connect the liquid line to you keg
2. Connect the gas line to your CO2 tank splitter
3. Turn the CO2 on your connection down to 2-3 PSI (this helps to avoid foaming)
4. De-gas your keg to let some of the pressure off (this helps to avoid foaming)
5. Chill the bottles (this helps to avoid foaming)
Use
1. Place the tip down “near” the bottom of you chilled bottle. Don’t press down on the tip, yet.
2. Press and hold the button for a few seconds to purge the oxygen and fill the bottle with CO2
3. Now, press down on the wand, so the bottle filler tip is pushed in and starts to fill the bottle.
4. Fill the bottle all the way to the top, then lift the filler to let the tip back to its closed position.
5. Cap the bottle
Tips
Fill your bottles in a sink, tub, tray, or bucket. With foaming and “little accidents” things can get messy, sometimes.
It’s okay to have a little foam over. In fact it is a good thing. If you cap on the foam, you will have the least chance of oxygen getting in your bottle.
Some people turn up their regulator a few PSI a day or a few hours before bottling, to compensate for any loss of carbonation when filling. This is not a bad idea, but you also risk getting too much foam when filling. If I had a beer that was supposed to be on the high end of the carbonation spectrum, I might do this.