Disable Chest Freezer Temp Alarm

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ScottishPete

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I have the Frigidaire 24.9 cu ft chest freezer, model GLFC2528FW ... I have a Ranco temp control attached to it ... this model freezer has a temperature alarm that is triggered when it exceeds a certain temperature ...

The Ranco works by only supplying power to the freezer when the temperature range you set is exceeded ... since this temp range is always above freezing, the alarm is triggered every time the freezer is turned on by the Ranco

I've been unable to find any documentation on how to disable the alarm completely ... anyone know if it's at all doable, either programmatically or by physically removing some component of the freezer?

Alternatively, are there temperature controls that work in ways other than completely killing the power to the unit?

Thanks
 

TomRep

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If you are handfy with electronics, there should be a way to turn that temperature warning device into a temperature controller. A trip to Radio Shack and you'd be set.
tom
 
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ScottishPete

ScottishPete

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passedpawn, thanks for the link to the supplementary manual ... hopefully we're looking at the same manual ( the site is session based, and I don't think allows direct linking to the manuals ) ... here's the one I downloaded: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2779944/5995477873.pdf

I took off the handle, but all the "control board" is, is two indicator lights and a button press to kill the alarm when the freezer is on ... I removed it anyway, but the alarm still functions ... the button press was attached to a couple wires that run across to the other side of the freezer where the rest of the compressor type stuff is

Looking through the manual I linked to, I don't see any part item labeled speaker or anything I would associate with a noise maker

Maybe those more familiar with electronic parts will see it right away ...
 

lamarguy

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Now that is an interesting idea. However, sounds like he already has one.
I believe his recommendation is to use the existing circuity and just bypass the temp sensor. That's what I did on my 20 cu ft upright freezer.

  1. Locate the OEM controller wiring (see your manual).
  2. Measure the approximate OEM temp sensor resistance at 100F and -32F.
  3. Splice your controller (Love, Ranco, etc.) inline with the temp sensor such that the OEM controller only sees a very high temp (100F ohms) or a very low temp (-32F ohms).

That effectively kills the alarm and, assuming you have a defrost heater, retains the defrost control loop.
 
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ScottishPete

ScottishPete

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Bump for evening / morning crowd?

passedpawn, thanks for the link to the supplementary manual ... hopefully we're looking at the same manual ( the site is session based, and I don't think allows direct linking to the manuals ) ... here's the one I downloaded: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2779944/5995477873.pdf

I took off the handle, but all the "control board" is, is two indicator lights and a button press to kill the alarm when the freezer is on ... I removed it anyway, but the alarm still functions ... the button press was attached to a couple wires that run across to the other side of the freezer where the rest of the compressor type stuff is

Looking through the manual I linked to, I don't see any part item labeled speaker or anything I would associate with a noise maker

Maybe those more familiar with electronic parts will see it right away ...
 
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passedpawn, thanks for the link to the supplementary manual ... hopefully we're looking at the same manual ( the site is session based, and I don't think allows direct linking to the manuals ) ... here's the one I downloaded: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2779944/5995477873.pdf

I took off the handle, but all the "control board" is, is two indicator lights and a button press to kill the alarm when the freezer is on ... I removed it anyway, but the alarm still functions ... the button press was attached to a couple wires that run across to the other side of the freezer where the rest of the compressor type stuff is

Looking through the manual I linked to, I don't see any part item labeled speaker or anything I would associate with a noise maker

Maybe those more familiar with electronic parts will see it right away ...
I am so sorry. I was absolutely sure that is where the buzzer would be. Yes , that's the board I was assuming had the buzzer on it, and that is the manual I looked at.

Can't you just use your ears to find the buzzer?
 
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ScottishPete

ScottishPete

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I dove into the belly of the beast today and I'm even more confused ... I really couldn't nail down where the sound was coming from ... I almost think it was coming from inside the freezer cavity, and not from within the access panel ... doesn't seem right tho

Here's two pictures ... I think the speaker *has* to be in the 2nd picture, but it really just didn't sound like it ... do any of those components look like a speaker?



 
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Mystery. Maybe it's behind that high-voltage board.

Put a paper towel tube to your ear and see if you can use that to "focus" on the direction of the sound. Ears are fairly unidirectional, and that doesn't help. Cover the unused ear.
 

jcdillin

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It looks like it might be on the bottom right on the control board soldered from underneath. You can see the circle with 2 leads soldered.
 

jcdillin

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Well if you turn the PCB over and it's a small black cylinder with a hole in the middle and your pretty sure it's a buzzer then yeah I would just twist it off with some pliers.
 

jcdillin

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I would take another picture of the other side and post it up so we can take a look.
 
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ScottishPete

ScottishPete

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The lower left in this picture is the bottom right from the picture before ... I didn't have the unit plugged in as I was getting kinda shocked before ... but, it's a small black cylinder with a hole in the middle
 

RiverCityBrewer

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Yup, thats the speaker in the bottom left corner of the board in the pic above. You can leave it pulled out like that and carefully power up the unit to be sure, but thats definitely a piezo buzzer.
 
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yep, that's it. Take some plyers and just crush it to death.

actually a better idea would be to take an exacto and cut one of the traces to it. then you could repair it later (with a jumper) if you wanted the buzzer back.

Cut the trace that terminates at the speaker's pin, not the one that continues through the pin to a resistor.
 

jcdillin

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Yeah pretty much what they all said, if you have any plans to ever use the alarm again then I would for sure cut the trace. Otherwise a gentle twist with some pliers and it will pop right off.

I'm not sure if there are traces on both sides of the board but if you wanted to try to cut the trace then i've circled what is probably the best place to cut it to try.

board.jpg
 

IIPABrewer

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Thanks to everyone for the discussion on this thread, I just ran into the same situation (damn alarms!) on the GE FCM25SUWW. I suspect the GE, Frigidaire and Maytag are all the same base units just with different cosmetic changes to the exterior. So to no surprise my PCB looked the same as the one on this thread and the buzzer was in the same place on the back of the PCB. Anyway, I yanked out the buzzer and reassembled everything.

Thanks to this thread, the hardest part was mounting the PCB in the metal box back into chest freezer. I could only get one hand inside the freezer easily so screwing it back into the wall of the freezer wasn't easy!

So far the unit seems to be working but more testing is needed.

Cheers to everyone for all the help :mug:
 

jtstrauch

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I believe I have basically the same setup (25 ft3 Figidaire). There appears to be only two screws holding the control board housing. Do I remove these screws to access the control board or does the housing come apart some other way (ie, pop open with the help of a screw driver)?
 

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I've squeezed silicone into the holes of these piezo speakers and let it cure and it muted the noise to an acceptable level without cutting traces or destroying the things. A plastic cap the right diameter that pushes on with a tight fit has the same result.
 

Kojones

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Old thread I know, but I used it for research to solve the same problem I had with the temp alarm. Solved my problem... I have a new Kenmore ~24 cu ft freezer. I found that the alarm was coming from the door handle where it displays the interior temp. On the handle there is also an alarm reset button that mutes the alarm.

To get to the inside of the handle, I had to drop the liner on the inside of the door. To do this, I removed all the snap-in pegs along the front edge of the door that holds the liner in place (they are under the seal on the door). Once I got the liner dropped enough, I looked for screws holding the handle on from the inside. I pulled the insulation down a little and found 2 nuts that were screwed onto plastic pegs attached to the handle. These nuts were hard to get off only because they could not be seen without a mirror. (I didn't have a mirror so used the back of a ratchet handle like a dentist tool.) I used a wrench to get the nuts off.

Once the handle was technically not attached anymore, I realized the lock on the front of the door was holding the handle on, but it was just a matter of prying the handle off of the lock (not breaking it). With the handle off, the user interface circuit board was screwed onto the underside of the handle. I unscrewed it, which then showed me my nemesis - the speaker. I couldn't see a way to remove it without breaking it. But I realized the alarm reset button was also on the circuit board. What I did was find a small piece of plastic in the garage that I could put in between the button on the circuit board and the button that is pressed by the user on the handle. When I screwed the circuit board back on the handle, the button made a click, meaning it was pressed. I turned power back on and the alarm does 1 beep then is silenced! I reassembled the handle back on and the insulation and liner back into place. I now hardly ever know it beeps the one time, and this is much better than it beeping constantly when on. Plus, all I have to do is remove the piece of plastic if I want it to work as normal again!

Cheers,
Kojones
 

makomachine

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I've just received a new Kenmore 24 and have the same issue. Why they didn't make a switch that could be turned off is beyond me. Now I have a project to do - which I'm not looking forward to unfortunately. I'm afraid I'll void the warranty by messing with the board and trying to come up with a solution that doesn't entail permanent modification or an appliance repair certification. The 'plastic' solution mentioned above sounds to be the closest but wondering if there have been any other solutions used that aren't posted. Appreciate further feedback on the issue!
 

Hang Glider

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This is funny -
I got a new 7 cu ft back in May. Has an alarm. so, before my keezer build (I hadn't read this thread) - I undo all the screws in the lid, get to the warning light and clips the wires. Figure I'll find the speaker down lower and yank it out next. Re-assemble the lid...

THEN, when I'm building my collar, I notice a switch on the back of the lid, (hidden, indented) - "alarm on/off"
 

makomachine

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Ok - took a shot at this for lunch and was a lot easier than I thought. I went plier method on the speaker and was easy enough to do and no more beeping. Thanks!
 

Alstein

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Old thread I know, but I used it for research to solve the same problem I had with the temp alarm. Solved my problem... I have a new Kenmore ~24 cu ft freezer. I found that the alarm was coming from the door handle where it displays the interior temp. On the handle there is also an alarm reset button that mutes the alarm.

To get to the inside of the handle, I had to drop the liner on the inside of the door. To do this, I removed all the snap-in pegs along the front edge of the door that holds the liner in place (they are under the seal on the door). Once I got the liner dropped enough, I looked for screws holding the handle on from the inside. I pulled the insulation down a little and found 2 nuts that were screwed onto plastic pegs attached to the handle. These nuts were hard to get off only because they could not be seen without a mirror. (I didn't have a mirror so used the back of a ratchet handle like a dentist tool.) I used a wrench to get the nuts off.

Once the handle was technically not attached anymore, I realized the lock on the front of the door was holding the handle on, but it was just a matter of prying the handle off of the lock (not breaking it). With the handle off, the user interface circuit board was screwed onto the underside of the handle. I unscrewed it, which then showed me my nemesis - the speaker. I couldn't see a way to remove it without breaking it. But I realized the alarm reset button was also on the circuit board. What I did was find a small piece of plastic in the garage that I could put in between the button on the circuit board and the button that is pressed by the user on the handle. When I screwed the circuit board back on the handle, the button made a click, meaning it was pressed. I turned power back on and the alarm does 1 beep then is silenced! I reassembled the handle back on and the insulation and liner back into place. I now hardly ever know it beeps the one time, and this is much better than it beeping constantly when on. Plus, all I have to do is remove the piece of plastic if I want it to work as normal again!

Cheers,
Kojones
Hi,

I know this was a while back for you, but...
I have a unit with an alarm silence button on the board as well. this button also locks the temperature control keypad when depressed for a few seconds. Does yours have this feature, and it it does, was it an issue in always locking the keypad by default when powered on? Typing through this, I suppose it doesn't matter as I'll have a temp controller hooked up to control the freezer temp anyway, and will just put the freezer to one of the coldest temp settings.

Just curious. Thanks.
 

Alstein

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I ended up taking out the control board from the door, and placing a square of folded up electrical tape between the alarm silence button on the circuit board and the housing so that the button is always pressed. Worked like a charm. Alarm never goes off, freezer runs fine with the Johnson temp controller.
 
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