Direct drive barley crusher

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Evan!

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Are you going to install some kind of shield or cone or something between the mill and the bucket? I would IIWY...or it's gonna throw a ton a flour everywhere.
 

bendavanza

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Lehr
Again you have outdone yourself. I agree with Evan! about a shield. I'm sure you could whip up a nice cone shaped item to keep the dust down, and in the bucket.
-Ben
 
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lehr

lehr

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It only turns about 100 rpms so it's not making much dust or throwing anything out it just drops right down in the bucket...I tested it already.

Thanks Pat
 

Pete08

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Lehr
Again you have outdone yourself. I agree with Evan! about a shield. I'm sure you could whip up a nice cone shaped item to keep the dust down, and in the bucket.
-Ben
I had about that much space on my set-up and didn't have "flour everywhere" when using my cordless. I now have a hand crank so there is even less of a chance since it is quite a reduction in Rs.
 

ClaudiusB

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lehr well done.

I give you a 10 if you install a safety guard.
The guard is not to protect you and me, it's the intelligent guy next to us.


Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 

Catt22

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Since its a gear motor can you really call it a "direct drive"?
j/k

Yes it can be called a direct drive configuration. Direct drive is generally understood to mean that the output shaft of the motor is coupled directly to the input shaft of the appliance. The gear reduction is considered a part of the motor assembly, hence the term gearmotor. No further speed/torque reducers or multipliers are required using belts, sheaves, chains, sprockets etc. The output shaft of the motor needs only to be coupled "directly" to the mill in order to operate properly.
 

BrewBeemer

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Great looking mill and drive, now some old lady in her 90's can not get her bed to elevate.

Is that a continuous or intermediate duty gearmotor on the data plate rating?

Last week at the ER while waiting for the wife I visited my friend in the hospital maintenance department. With us being past bier drinking friends he gave me a brand new "spare", The Timeter Group 0-15 LPM O2 flow meter. It has a 1/4 turn quick disconnect that will be rermoved. plus the flow control valve. A great addition to my next brewery. I'll have to ask him about a bed gearmotor. What's the HP of that motor or the current draw? thanks for the posting.
 

Mattbastard

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That's a good solid setup. My only beef is you didn't seem to use a flex coupling for the connection between the mill and motor. If it's not aligned perfectly there will be unnecessary bearing stresses.
 

Mattbastard

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lehr well done.

I give you a 10 if you install a safety guard.
The guard is not to protect you and me, it's the intelligent guy next to us.


Cheers,
ClaudiusB
Dude, if you think that mill needs a guard you should see mine:



It's the finger eater! :rockin:
 
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lehr

lehr

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lehr well done.

I give you a 10 if you install a safety guard.
The guard is not to protect you and me, it's the intelligent guy next to us.


Cheers,
ClaudiusB
Where would you put a guard on the shaft that's on the bottom and in the back of the table that is turning 100 rpms...I have a garage full of shears grinders, huge band saw,plasma cutter,and welders...so if that shaft gets me I deserve it :)
 
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lehr

lehr

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Great looking mill and drive, now some old lady in her 90's can not get her bed to elevate.

Is that a continuous or intermediate duty gearmotor on the data plate rating?

Last week at the ER while waiting for the wife I visited my friend in the hospital maintenance department. With us being past bier drinking friends he gave me a brand new "spare", The Timeter Group 0-15 LPM O2 flow meter. It has a 1/4 turn quick disconnect that will be rermoved. plus the flow control valve. A great addition to my next brewery. I'll have to ask him about a bed gearmotor. What's the HP of that motor or the current draw? thanks for the posting.
I'll let you know about the motor.

Pat
 
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lehr

lehr

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That's a good solid setup. My only beef is you didn't seem to use a flex coupling for the connection between the mill and motor. If it's not aligned perfectly there will be unnecessary bearing stresses.
I built the mounts with the shafts connected.
 

Homercidal

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I think it's time for me to start brainstorming where I can get a good motor. Not that I can't crank by hand, but that looks fun to build!
 

Helter

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I think it's time for me to start brainstorming where I can get a good motor. Not that I can't crank by hand, but that looks fun to build!
a washing machine or dryer would be a could place for one. You can find them on CL cheap/free pretty often.
 

HenryHill

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Nice job, Pat. :mug:

I do agree on the flexible coupling though, it is cheap and allows the driven shaft to stay in it's axis so bearing wear will be reduced. True, the bearings are about 50 cents, but they will last near forever without any sideloading placed on them.

Lovejoy flexible coupling from McMaster Carr is what I used. I think about 15 bucks. I have a 5/8" coupling from a FU when I ordered, and a urethane spider if you are interested in either... you will need a coupling for each side based on the shaft size of mill and motor, and a spider.

I say F the guard, mine is on top of the table, it is 170 RPM, and is not a danger.

I used a Bodine AC parallel shaft gearmotor form Ebay.
 
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lehr

lehr

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Mr Hill I was looking at those when I built this thing but I couldnt find a cheep one 1/2 on one end and 3/8 on the other...I'll have to look up stairs in my shop I have some old 90 degree gear motors up there with couplers on them.

Thanks Pat
 

Homercidal

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a washing machine or dryer would be a could place for one. You can find them on CL cheap/free pretty often.
I've got a couple of motor like that. I thought they would be too big and fast for the application though. I can probably acquire some Lovejoys at work pretty easy... Although the total amount of time my crusher will be running would make them overkill by about 1,000,000 percent:

10 minutes per batch x 2 batches a month (if that) = 240 minutes a year. If the bearings wear out in that much time, you used the wrong bearings!
 
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lehr

lehr

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Homer the only way to use one of those washing machine motors is to do the belt and sheave thing.

Pat
 

Homercidal

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Homer the only way to use one of those washing machine motors is to do the belt and sheave thing.

Pat
That's what I was thinking. I could probably find some of that stuff at the scrap yard, but for as often as I will be crushing grain, I'd probably just end up cranking by hand, or attaching a drill. I have a 1/2" drill that would work nicely when I fix it.

Or I could rig up a Gilligan's Island style bicycle-powered system and get some leg exercise while I'm crushing. Or maybe a kid-sized hamster wheel...
 
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lehr

lehr

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That's a good solid setup. My only beef is you didn't seem to use a flex coupling for the connection between the mill and motor. If it's not aligned perfectly there will be unnecessary bearing stresses.
Ok Matt I put a lovejoy coupler on it so no more beef...It cost me a wopping $ 8.27 so now I have $ 134.26 in to it man you put me over budget !

Pat
 
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