dimple and solder herms coil thru HLT wall?

[Michael1]

It seems like people never remove their HLT herms coil and that there is little reason to remove it for cleaning. I was thinking of just using a step bit to drill and then dimpling the hole and silver soldering the stainless coil sticking right through the sides of the tun to do away with interior fittings. If I ever really needed the herms coil out of the pot for mods or repairs, I could just heat the solder and pull it out. Is this a bad idea?

 

[mytommygundont]

Well it would be a lot cheaper. I can't think of anything bad to say about it.

 

[geniz]

Soldering a SS 1\2 inch coupler provides a sturdy attachment point for the coil and external fittings. I'd worry that the copper pipe might get damaged over time

 

[Michael1]

I am using stainless, but you're right it might get knocked around sticking out of the kettle wall. I have ordered the coil, but I don't have it yet. I'm not sure how sturdy the stainless tubing is compared to the copper.

 

[Bobby_M]

Well, in any case, you're going to need threaded connections for a valve and the top tubing connection unless you plan to go real lo-fi and clamp hoses directly over the stainless. You could also dimple, then tap the flare with 1/2" NPT from inside. Then you can thread 1/2" tube x 1/2" MNPT threaded compression fittings in and silver solder those. Now you have male threads sticking out and a very easy way to pull the coil out.

 

[wbarber69]

what i intend to do (once i can afford to buy everything) is drill a hole big enough to drop my compression fitting in where it will sit tight against the hex in the middle. then solder that to the wall of my keg then I have a low profile compression fitting on the inside and a male thread outside that i can hook a camlock nipple up to.

 

[Bobby_M]

It's pretty tricky because the transition from thread to hex isn't neatly stepped with a lot of flat surface area. If you can find someone with a 1/2" NPT pipe thread tap, tap the threads directly into the keg so that you have a good fit and tight gap for solder.

 

[wbarber69]

Threading the thin wall of the keg will be a waste of time. Another option could be to run a coupler through the dimple, like has been discussed here many times. Then, drill out a compression fitting so the pipe will pass right through it. Put the compressions on the outside so you can pass the hex coil ends through to to the outside. But then you'd be left with smooth pipe sticking out your vessel. You could then clamp hose to the hex coil that way but it just seems a little silly to me to do it this way. There is plenty of surface area to solder the center hex of a compression fitting to the sidewall. All you have to do is flatten the radius of the keg where the fittings meet the keg so you don't have any gaps. And it's a small enough area that it could be done with a block of wood and a hammer.

 

[Bobby_M]

Threading the thin wall of the keg will be a waste of time. Another option could be to run a coupler through the dimple, like has been discussed here many times. Then, drill out a compression fitting so the pipe will pass right through it. Put the compressions on the outside so you can pass the hex coil ends through to to the outside. But then you'd be left with smooth pipe sticking out your vessel. You could then clamp hose to the hex coil that way but it just seems a little silly to me to do it this way. There is plenty of surface area to solder the center hex of a compression fitting to the sidewall. All you have to do is flatten the radius of the keg where the fittings meet the keg so you don't have any gaps. And it's a small enough area that it could be done with a block of wood and a hammer.

Sorry for wasting everyone's time. After all, I have never held these fittings in my hand so it's all misguided speculation.

If it were mine I would put locknuts on the outside and just use solder to get it liquid tight.