Detachable control panel help

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hs0656

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I'm in the middle of building a keggle mashtun with an automated burner. Im building the controller now. I'm using gas solenoids from valves4projects on eBay.

I want my control panel to be completely detachable. I can wire detachable probes for my temperature controllers and power cable easily. But my question is, what kind of jacks/connectors can I use to quickly disconnect the gas solenoids from the control panel. My valves are 110 volts.

Any ideas would be greatly welcomed!
 

goingmad

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you have several different connectors types to choose from.
The main difference is basically from the number of wires you need to connect with each connector and the availability of a wall mount connector, to be placed on your cp.

Just some examples:

M12 female panel mount


M12 3-pin male


2-pin female mic connector


3-pin female mic connector


4-pin female mic connector


5-pin female mic connector


6-pin female mic connector


7-pin female mic connector


8-pin female mic connector


and so on...

I'd suggest you to have wires with bigger size for connecting 110V devices, just to be safer.

Have a look to Kal's awesome setup, you'll find tons of useful info for your doubts: theelectricbrewery




cheers

gm
 
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hs0656

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you have several different connectors types to choose from.
The main difference is basically from the number of wires you need to connect with each connector and the availability of a wall mount connector, to be placed on your cp.

Just some examples..

2-pin female mic connector


I'd suggest you to have wires with bigger size for connecting 110V devices, just to be safer.

gm
I've spent a lot of time on the Electric Brewery website and have a few different ideas from it. So the gas valve I'm wiring in only has 2 wires, hot and neutral. Will this 2 pin connector above work?

And thank you very much for your reply. This is exactly what I'm looking for if it will work.
 

goingmad

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It should work without problems, it's just matter of sending OPEN-CLOSE signals through it.
 

luhrks

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I just used standard 110v receptacles and plugs on mine for the solenoids. Kept all the voltage at 110v to simplify wiring.

IMG_20130913_212456.jpg
 
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hs0656

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I just used standard 110v receptacles and plugs on mine for the solenoids. Kept all the voltage at 110v to simplify wiring.
Are you using them with gas valves?
 

BitSlinger84

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I just use an M12 head like others have posted. The wiring from the valve to controller is as follows:

Solenoid -- M12 Head -- Sensor/Actuator Cable -- M12 Through Wall (outside of control cabinet) -- Controller (inside of control cabinet).

Just check the current draw on your valve and select a cable with appropriately sized wire inside. You can choose something with more than two wires in it if it's cheaper. For example, I use four wire cables on everything connecting to my control cabinet because it was cheaper than getting two and three wire cable. Just don't use the extra wires. Also, I was able to use smaller wire cable like a sensor/actuator cable because I use 24VDC valves with low draw. I chose 24VDC so I could direct fire them from the PLC. No interposing relay required.

I, like you, must remove my control cabinet from my stand when I'm done because it's stored on the patio under a tarp. So my control solution is completely modular.
 
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hs0656

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I just use an M12 head like others have posted. The wiring from the valve to controller is as follows:

Solenoid -- M12 Head -- Sensor/Actuator Cable -- M12 Through Wall (outside of control cabinet) -- Controller (inside of control cabinet).

Just check the current draw on your valve and select a cable with appropriately sized wire inside. You can choose something with more than two wires in it if it's cheaper. For example, I use four wire cables on everything connecting to my control cabinet because it was cheaper than getting two and three wire cable. Just don't use the extra wires. Also, I was able to use smaller wire cable like a sensor/actuator cable because I use 24VDC valves with low draw. I chose 24VDC so I could direct fire them from the PLC. No interposing relay required.

I, like you, must remove my control cabinet from my stand when I'm done because it's stored on the patio under a tarp. So my control solution is completely modular.
Thanks Bitslinger. The M12 connectors sound like a perfect solution. Wheres the best place to buy these? Im having a hard time finding them online. Any local places that I could pick them up? The XLR connectors are pretty easy to find. anywhere.
 

MrNatural

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I'm leaning toward this solution. 2 pumps, two gas solenoids, common lead for two ignitors, share some neutrals to make room for ground. Further sharing leaves room for HLT stirrer/pump.
Terminal blocks good for 16 AWG.

Female in control panel and male in junction box on brewstand. Can fab my own cable to whatever length I decide on.

Maybe even a longer cable for ferm chambers control between brewdays?

http://www.showmecables.com/product/DB9-Female-Terminal-Block-Panel-Mount-Connectors.aspx




http://www.showmecables.com/product/DB9-Male-Terminal-Block-Panel-Mount-Connector.aspx

http://www.showmecables.com/product/DB9-Female-Solder-Connector.aspx

Or, $1.50 for a little soldering, about $36 cheaper.........



http://www.showmecables.com/product/DB9-Male-Solder-Connector.aspx
 
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