Custom Built-in Kegerator Project in Apartment

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DrBrewlittle

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For some time now, I've been wanting to keg my brews, as there is not enough fridge space in my wife's and my apartment for a 5 gal batch of bottles, besides the obvious chore of bottling and waiting 2-3 more weeks to drink the product. Plus, I greatly disliked sharing bottles with friends and having to carefully decant off the yeast. Kegging had all the answers, but there isn't a good spot in our apartment for a free-standing kegerator that would please both SWMBO and myself.

There is a built-in desk area that we don't use as a desk, but it is too short to slide anything but a 1.7 cu ft fridge underneath, and I want to use 5 gallon kegs ideally. Using a store-bought fridge would not work. After looking at all of the custom fermentation chamber and kegerator builds on here, I arrived at the idea of creating my own with the guts from an old mini fridge and some rigid foam panels and building it all underneath the desk. There already was a 2" hole drilled in the center rear of the granite intended for power cords for the desk. I decided that hole would be the perfect spot for a draft tower and lines.

SWMBO normally lets me use the area underneath the desk for fermentation. I've been fermenting a double IPA using a Coleman cooler as a cool water reservoir for the SS Brewtech FTSs along with my Brew Bucket. I'll build the fridge so there remains space on the side to fit the brew bucket, and run the cooling lines for the FTSs into a water reservoir inside the fridge, removing the need for the cooler.
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First, I acquired an old mini fridge with an ice chamber as the cooling element and the condenser on the back as black coils. This made the extraction much easier than it would have been on a newer fridge with the condenser coils built into the sides of the fridge. Here's the guts of the fridge all removed and waiting to be used.
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I made trips to Home Depot and Menards for supplies. Bought two 1" thick sheets of aluminum-faced polyisocyanurate foam, foil tape, and some tools and extras to complete the project. I used a jigsaw and a knife-edge blade to cut the foam out. I doubled up the sheets to make all sides 2" thick. I made a few test fits as I was cutting out the panels.

Here's one of those test fits with the top, bottom, and left side panel in place. Fridge guts on the right.
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Here's a test fit with all side panels together except for the door, with two pin lock kegs (could not use ball locks due to their height).
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And with the tap tower set in place! This is where it really starts to look like a kegerator.
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I wanted to wire in a digital temperature controller to replace the old fridge's dial and chose the STC 1000 because I could wire it in and easily be able to have access to the controls from the front. It was a bit of a challenge wiring it in, but I basically removed the old thermostat that acted as a switch and spliced those positive and neutral wires together, then wired in the STC 1000 at the power cord using another tutorial/diagram on this site (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=385792).

Fridge wiring up close
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Spliced the hot and neutral wires together from the fridge's thermostat.
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Wired in the STC 1000 according to the diagram in the other thread.
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It works! (72.5 is the current temp)
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Used a jigsaw to cut out a pocket hole in some plywood and slid the STC 1000 into it.
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I built a surround for the fridge compressor and placed the 5# CO2 bottle and regulator on top of it. I used foil tape and friction pressure to join all of the foam panels to finish the box. I carefully cut holes for the CO2 lines, the fridge evaporator line, and the power cord for the tower cooling fan, then blocked off any exposed foam with foil tape. I used weather stripping tape to line the door and make it as air-tight as possible.
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Since this is an apartment and not my own house, I wanted to minimize the damage/alteration of the actual apartment property itself, and there was no way I was going to drill through the granite countertop. I used a bunch of small command strips (12 of the tiny ones) all along the bottom of the flange to attach the draft tower to the countertop. It's a solution that works, but not perfect. The tower is secure as long as you don't yank on it. I added a 12" drain plate with a cutout for the tower and stuck small rubber feet to the bottom of it to prevent sliding. To conceal the entire thing, I found a source for the same exact cabinet doors and panels that are in the rest of the kitchen and test-fit them in front of the fridge.
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I took some 2x2's and some angle brackets and attached the cabinet doors.
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I took the matching cabinet panels and used the jigsaw to carefully cut out pieces that fit the border around the doors perfectly.
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The hinges work! I also made a floor panel that isn't fastened in so I can remove it to open the fridge door and slide the brew bucket in on the side.
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Purging the keg with CO2 while running Star San through the whole system. LOVE the Intertap faucets for their versatility. Hooked up a ball lock fitting to the spout and drained my sanitizer back into the cooler to use for sanitizing other parts.
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Two kegs in the fridge! Filled one with ice water to aid in cooling so the compressor isn't overworked. Placed the temperature probe inside the water bottle to modulate the temperature values read by the STC 1000.
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Done! My goal going into this was just to make a functional kegerator that passed SWMBO's approval, but I am truly pleased and impressed with how this turned out.
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Cheers! It may be still cloudy and uncarbonated, but I couldn't resist pouring a small glass for myself. I'd love to answer any questions or help to encourage others to take on a project like this! I am not particularly skilled with home improvement projects or tools, but I found that a little bit of planning and research (and a lot of browsing previous HBT threads) gave me the confidence to complete this build. Thanks for reading!
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Very nice work. However, I'd be a little worried that you don't have enough ventilation (cooling air flow) around the hot side heat exchanger coils. The heat from these has to be dissipated somewhere, and right now it seems it would all be trapped under the granite, behind the doors.

Edit: Another concern: what happens to condensation inside the chamber? With nice hardwood floors underneath, water damage is a possibility.

Brew on :mug:
 
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Thanks for your thoughts. I also was concerned about cooling air flow and I may end up moving the CO2 tank to the other side as a result, but for now, as the fridge is actively cooling down the keg inside, I've had the cabinet door open with a fan blowing air inside. When all of the contents inside have fully cooled, it shouldn't need as much help to simply maintain the chilled temperature. Any better ideas would certainly be appreciated!

Up until now, any condensation has remained frozen on the evaporator plate, but I have plans this week to make a trip to the hardware store again for a roll of aluminum flashing. I'll bend a piece into a custom drip pan and route the drain outside to the compressor area like a standard mini fridge.
 
Update: I took Doug's advice and gave the compressor and condenser a little more room to vent their heat by relocating the CO2 tank to the left side of the cabinet and removing the plywood panel covering the compressor. Before this, the fridge would struggle and have to work hard to get below 40 F, but now it's easily holding 37 F with no problem.
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Man, you're ambitious! This is really impressive. Great work taking advantage of a small space! I can't believe how much you're able to do under that little counter!

If heat or moisture really becomes a problem on the right side, you could put a hole in either the door or the floor panel and then install a small computer fan. You could then cover the hole with some stainless steel baffles, which I think would still look nice.
 
Nice job! Wish I would have done something like this when I lived in a small apartment in LA.
 
Thanks for the compliments, guys. And Bob, thanks for the advice. I am going to be monitoring it these next few days for those problems and see if potential solutions need to be engineered. For now though, it's working well! Still want to create some sort of drip tray underneath the evaporator inside the fridge for any condensation.
 
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Love it!
You could look at the possibility of adding something like this to allow air exchange on the right side of the kegerator (Okay that's Amazon Canada, but you can get the same on Amazon.com!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
or this
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009CO543S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Thanks jojaques! Your suggestions are great, but I've already gone ahead and gotten essentially those same fans! I ordered the AC Infinity Multifan S7 (dual 120mm fans) for the right side of the cabinet to create some airflow over the condenser. Inside the unit I added another quiet (<20dB) fan placed over the evaporator to circulate the cold air and improve efficiency, as well as the Eva-Dry E-500 mini dehumidifier to mitigate condensation inside the fridge. Right now, my weakest point of the whole system is the door seal, so tomorrow, I should be receiving a trimmable universal magnetic gasket that will create a much better seal around the door opening than my current strip of foam. Will post pics along with a report once it's in place!
 
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Drill a row of holes in the right door down low by the compressor, and another row up high to set up convection flow. Paint the inside of the holes black and they will not be noticeable.That side needs air flow!
 
Okay, so I finally got around to taking photos of my updates.

First, I wanted to add fans on the compressor side to circulate air. I got a pair of quiet USB fans with a speed controller and I placed 1 fan at the rear and one fan at the front. Normally I keep the cabinet door cracked a couple inches and the temperature on that side of the cabinet is barely above room temperature--not noticeably warm at all. With the door shut, it gets up to about 10 degrees above room temperature, which isn't bad. I really don't want to drill holes in the cabinet door, despite the gains in cooling efficiency.
The third fan sitting in front is my 110v 120mm fan that I placed in the kegerator to circulate cold air off of the cold plate. I glued brackets to the back of it and hung it on the cold plate itself. It seems to run more efficiently now, but that is only subjective. I would appreciate any helpful ideas on possible better placement of this fan or the two outside ones.
Inside the kegerator, you can also notice a passive dehumidifier that I placed to help decrease the condensation. So far it has definitely decreased the moisture forming inside the fridge, but has not stopped it entirely.
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My weakest insulation point was my door, so I got an actual fridge seal and cut it to size for my door. I used sealing glue on the joints and now the door seal is much more secure.
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Update:

Became concerned about the amount of water sitting on the floor of the fridge. I had been using a towel to absorb the water, but after a couple days, the towel would be soaked. Not okay.

To fix this, I got a small roll of aluminum flashing from Ace Hardware and made my own drip tray with a hose to outside the box that drops over an aluminum plate sitting on the compressor, just like a commercially-made fridge. I bent it in the middle and used caulking to seal all the seams. Just put this in, but I'm very confident it will work!
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