Crankandstein/Moster Mill owners.. need advice...

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r8rphan

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So it took a while to get the mill once ordered.. but I finally have it and built an over bucket hopper for it... So tomorrow I do my first brew using my own crush...

the problem is that I've been getting very low efficiency, and I believe the crush settings at the LHBS was a big part of the problem...

So now I get to try a custom crush..

The crusher I bought is the 3D... 3 roller, detent adjustable, with the 1/2" shaft..

I use a 48qt coleman cooler for the mash, with a lauter manifold made from 1/2" copper tubing... I will be batch sparging tomorrow, using 2 row and vienna, crystal, and/or honey malt for the specialty malt.. no rice hulls... 5.2 buffer as the only additive to the water...

You guys that have similar setups, what is the gap you use? How fine can I go before I have to worry about stuck sparges?
 
I use .040 gap with my MM-3 mill, the crush is awesome IMHO. I have consistently been over 80% with my pre boil doing batch sparges. Today I was at 84% pre boil efficiency with a 1.063 OG beer. I'm using a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler with a copper manifold, 5 gallon batch.

.040" seems to be a good starting point for most mills. With a 3 roller I just can't see trying to get more flower in the crush by going to a smaller gap. My efficiency is great with batch sparges, so I feel like it's stupid to try to get it any better.
 
Thanks man.. It comes set at .045.. I was kind of asking this question to see if it was safe starting out a click or two under (.040-.035).. Unless I hear otherwise, I think I'll try the .040
:mug:
 
I use .040 gap with my MM-3 mill, the crush is awesome IMHO. I have consistently been over 80% with my pre boil doing batch sparges. Today I was at 84% pre boil efficiency with a 1.063 OG beer. I'm using a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler with a copper manifold, 5 gallon batch.

.040" seems to be a good starting point for most mills. With a 3 roller I just can't see trying to get more flower in the crush by going to a smaller gap. My efficiency is great with batch sparges, so I feel like it's stupid to try to get it any better.

Ditto on all counts.
 
Well the crush definitely looks nice.. Hopper held 15 lbs of grain... Can be easily expanded to add plenty more...
 
I set mine to .039. Did me well until I didn't notice it moved between batches. Crushed at .048 and got about 55% eff.

Checked my crush and the next batch was better.

B
 
This model is set using detents.. It is .005 per click... I can't see it shifting mid crush.. I figured the convenience of not having to take it apart to adjust it and not having to use feeler gauges was worth the extra money..

After hearing your story, I'm glad I did...

That's the efficiency I was getting from the LHBS crushed grain...
 
The move was my fault. I built a frame around the mill, and had to use longer bolts to adjust the mill. I didn't put lock nuts on the bolts the first time around. . .

B
 
Monster Mill 2 something. I wanted it small enough to fit in a 5 gallon bucket with hopper holder attached. I live in an NYC apartment and try to keep everything compact.
 
I'm getting 77-80% efficiency on my C&S 2S at the factory setting.
 
You guys that have similar setups, what is the gap you use? How fine can I go before I have to worry about stuck sparges?

I now routinely double crush my grain with the Crankenstein 3D. I'd like to do a single pass, but my motor doesn't have the horsepower for that. I crush it first at about 0.045, then down to about 0.036. This crushes the bejeezus out of it. I get a good bit of flour. I do however condition my malt so I get good big chunks of husks and rarely have sparge issues.
 
Thanks man.. It comes set at .045.. I was kind of asking this question to see if it was safe starting out a click or two under (.040-.035).. Unless I hear otherwise, I think I'll try the .040
:mug:

I condition malt and set my MM3 at .025. Provides an awesome crush even at that narrow setting. I probably wouldn't recommend it that narrow unless you are conditioning your malt, but if you are, crank it down!

edit: Oh, and I had an issue with my MM3 loosening as well, but once I cranked down the locking pins with a wrench it has been solid. I re-check the gap periodically, but it's been rock solid.
 
I got a MM3 and haven't had any issues with the pins backing out. I check it every few brews and it's always stayed put. I get 80-83% at .045
 
I set mine to .039. Did me well until I didn't notice it moved between batches. Crushed at .048 and got about 55% eff.

Checked my crush and the next batch was better.

B

I have the same seting and have about 80% eficiency but last time had almost stack sparge. I'm going to do malt conditioning next time and use some rice hulls. I tied to motorize it but my puleys were sliping(belt too narow) and had to use 4.5 amps drill to mill.
 
Once you get to a certain point it is less about efficiency (which has a lot of other variables) and more about providing an excellent filter bed by retaining the mass of husks as best as possible. Most folks get 80% efficiency once they start crushing their own grain with one of these nicer mills.
 
I condition malt and set my MM3 at .025. Provides an awesome crush even at that narrow setting. I probably wouldn't recommend it that narrow unless you are conditioning your malt, but if you are, crank it down!

I have the MM 2 roller, crush at .025 also, and I condition the grain with 2oz of water.. spray, shake.. spray, shake.. spray, shake. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, then grind. Beautiful, never a stuck sparge.

tom
 
Yeah, I do 3 oz per 10 lbs to do it the night before... crush first thing int he morning (helps husks evenly absorb the water)
 
I never checked my Barley Mill and used it right out of the box. I get great efficiency, because I left Brewtarget at 75%, but when I checked the S.G. of a batch calculated at that efficiency to end up at about 1.056, it was 1.064, and I think I used more water than the recipe called for.
 
I have the cranknstien with 2 rollers. I have it set to .30 I do not condition the malt. With normal barley grain bills I have no problems with the lauter. I only have lauter problems with wheat beers. For wheat beers I add in rice hulls and that seams to work fine.
 
This thing has totally changed my brew day experience, my efficiency, and the taste of my beer.. in a positive way for all three...
 
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