Corny lid with triclamp paired with coolstix

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hi all just wondering if anyone has tried this, my plan is to use a corny keg lid with 1.5 tc port and place a coolstix inside the keg to run glycol for fermentation control and/or for serving directly off the keg
Keg lid
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cornylidtc.htm
Coolstix
https://brewbuilt.com/products/brewbuilt-minimax-coolstix-triclamp-connections.html
I have, and it does work, but doesn't cool to the extent I had hoped. I think I simply had too much 'metal' exposed to ambient temperatures to make it work efficiently.

Basically, I had it set up on a 6.5 gallon Clawhammer keg with a removable 4" TC lid that has Gas In/Gas Out Cornelius posts, a ring-pull PRV, and a 1.5" TC port. I attached a 1.5" TC cross (4 x 1.5"TC ports) to the keg lid. The CoolStix passed through the vertical (top) port into the kegmenter. I attached a Spike spunding valve with a 1.5" TC 90^ elbow fitting to one side of the cross, and a 1.5" TC PRV to the other side. Then I connected the CoolStix to my glycol chiller. I've got three outputs to chiller coils, but at the time I was just using one (occasionally two) cooling output channels simultaneously. When I first used the setup, I had my unitank maintaining lager temps on an active fermentation, and one connected to the CoolStix.

Ambient temperature in my brew area runs about 55-60F in Winter, and 65-80F the rest of the year. The lager in the Unitank was fermenting around 48F, so some cooling load, but not a lot (it was a cool Spring outside). I had an ale going in the Clawhammer and the CoolStix was doing O.K. maintaining low 60s, but when I attempted to cold crash, it struggled mightily to get below 48F.

It wasn't that the glycol chiller wasn't up to the task. I've had two circuits chillin' and one circuit 'cold crashing' at the same time down to mid 30s, so I know it has the muscle to get 'er done. The CoolStix works well in the limited capacity range between say 50-65F with ambient temps in the upper 80s outside. You'll have no problem with fermenting ales and lagers, but don't expect being able to do a hard cold crash or lager in the upper 30s. I'm sure my setup with about 8-10" of extra stainless steel hangin' like a Christmas tree didn't help the efficiency by sapping cooling power, although I did use a neoprene sleeve on the keg.

In short, the system you described does work, but it doesn't work miracles, I was looking to add capacity and capability without spending money on another pressure capable unitank. If you want it to bend the temperature curve, it will. But you'll have to insulate your keg while also limiting the amount of exposed SS hardware on top, and have a reasonable capacity cooling system (glycol) to change the delta on ambient temperature to where you want the fermenter/keg to be.
 
I have, and it does work, but doesn't cool to the extent I had hoped. I think I simply had too much 'metal' exposed to ambient temperatures to make it work efficiently.

Basically, I had it set up on a 6.5 gallon Clawhammer keg with a removable 4" TC lid that has Gas In/Gas Out Cornelius posts, a ring-pull PRV, and a 1.5" TC port. I attached a 1.5" TC cross (4 x 1.5"TC ports) to the keg lid. The CoolStix passed through the vertical (top) port into the kegmenter. I attached a Spike spunding valve with a 1.5" TC 90^ elbow fitting to one side of the cross, and a 1.5" TC PRV to the other side. Then I connected the CoolStix to my glycol chiller. I've got three outputs to chiller coils, but at the time I was just using one (occasionally two) cooling output channels simultaneously. When I first used the setup, I had my unitank maintaining lager temps on an active fermentation, and one connected to the CoolStix.

Ambient temperature in my brew area runs about 55-60F in Winter, and 65-80F the rest of the year. The lager in the Unitank was fermenting around 48F, so some cooling load, but not a lot (it was a cool Spring outside). I had an ale going in the Clawhammer and the CoolStix was doing O.K. maintaining low 60s, but when I attempted to cold crash, it struggled mightily to get below 48F.

It wasn't that the glycol chiller wasn't up to the task. I've had two circuits chillin' and one circuit 'cold crashing' at the same time down to mid 30s, so I know it has the muscle to get 'er done. The CoolStix works well in the limited capacity range between say 50-65F with ambient temps in the upper 80s outside. You'll have no problem with fermenting ales and lagers, but don't expect being able to do a hard cold crash or lager in the upper 30s. I'm sure my setup with about 8-10" of extra stainless steel hangin' like a Christmas tree didn't help the efficiency by sapping cooling power, although I did use a neoprene sleeve on the keg.

In short, the system you described does work, but it doesn't work miracles, I was looking to add capacity and capability without spending money on another pressure capable unitank. If you want it to bend the temperature curve, it will. But you'll have to insulate your keg while also limiting the amount of exposed SS hardware on top, and have a reasonable capacity cooling system (glycol) to change the delta on ambient temperature to where you want the fermenter/keg to be.
Okay cool thank you for the information do you feel that a cooling jacket such as this one may be more efficient
https://www.brewtools.us/miniuni-ac...-cooling-jacket-850x180mm-for-miniuni-3-8-npt
 
Okay cool thank you for the information do you feel that a cooling jacket such as this one may be more efficient
https://www.brewtools.us/miniuni-ac...-cooling-jacket-850x180mm-for-miniuni-3-8-npt
That’s an interesting looking device. It looks like it could work, especially if you could wrap it around your fermenter and place the fermenter inside an insulating layer, kind of like what the BrewJacket did, big enough to hold a 7 gallon Big Mouth Bubbler.

You’d still probably have to put a load on your cooling supply source to get any serious temperature drop for crashing or lagering. I’ve tried a number of different solutions, and there’s just not anything short of an old refrigerator cold chamber or SS tanks hooked up to a glycol chiller that gives the same level of performance.

That’s not to say that CoolStix or BrewJacket don’t work. They do. Just not sufficiently to meet your objectives. And jacketed fermenters that have cooling channels around the cone in addition to just around the “waist” are going to be much more able to chill rapidly and to lower temperatures that you’re likely to want.

For a small batch brewer (5~10 gallon) there really is no comparison between an SS tank with internal chiller coils and the other cooling devices. The cost of entry is steep, but so is the satisfaction of being able to brew all seasons with total control of the temperature and very little hassle.
 
Hi all just wondering if anyone has tried this, my plan is to use a corny keg lid with 1.5 tc port and place a coolstix inside the keg to run glycol for fermentation control and/or for serving directly off the keg
Keg lid
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cornylidtc.htm
Coolstix
https://brewbuilt.com/products/brewbuilt-minimax-coolstix-triclamp-connections.html
I've always wondered about this combination, as I was aware of the coolstix, but the keg lid didn't hit the market until right after I built keg lids with SS coils.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...oils-and-glycol-chilled-water-for-now.690600/
 
Back
Top