Corny Lid with tri clamp

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Ridenour64

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I have been in search of something like this for a long time. I wasn’t able to find it on their website but I assume it’ll be up soon? Posting for others that may be interested. Not sure why the tri clamp pipe is so tall though.
 

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Spikybits

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Brewershardware - ive purchased a few things from them - they are down the freeway from me - lol i hit them up on IG - sending them an email for a quote and am going to ask if the spool can be shorter
 
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Ridenour64

Ridenour64

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I want one of their conicals pretty bad. I’m trying to convince myself it’s a bad idea. How is the quality? I haven’t ordered from them. Let me know when you hear back about pricing on these. This would resolve my issue with dry hopping while fermenting in my torpedo keg.
 

SanPancho

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I have been in search of something like this for a long time. I wasn’t able to find it on their website but I assume it’ll be up soon? Posting for others that may be interested. Not sure why the tri clamp pipe is so tall though.
is this a joke? how do you expect to get the lid inside the corny so you can close it up? no way that'll work.

this is what you want.

i made one a few years ago, but broke off the handle and had to sort of rig it up. this guy figured out how to reuse the handle, so its much better. i made one over xmas. works like a charm.

it really helps if you have a vise to hold it while you bend the handle. and buy cutting oil. you'll thank yourself.
 
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Ridenour64

Ridenour64

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But you have to be able to weld the loops for the handle no? I already have the hole saw that Bobby sells, along with the Weldless tri clamp ferrule. I added one to my spike kettle for a steam slayer and CIP.
 

SanPancho

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no- essentially you take one of the feet, bend it to be as straight as you can get it, then pinch the legs together until the foot pops out of the holder. then the other side slides out.

flip the handle around 180 degrees, then reverse the steps, putting it back into the lid and finally bending the foot back into a 90 and bobs your niece.

that's why i said it definitely helps if you have a vise. if you were a pretty good welder you could likely do it that way in some fashion, but i'm definitely not good enough to be sure that the force you apply to get the lid sealed wouldn't pop your weld off. i cant be 100% sure, but it seemed to me it was definitely harder to snap the handle down after i flipped it around than it was in the normal position.
 
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Ridenour64

Ridenour64

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I understand now. Interesting. I’ll have to try this. I’ve tried searching Google and everywhere else for a way to do this and couldn’t find anything.
 

SanPancho

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The guy did a blog post but for some reason I can’t find it. I think he also posted on Reddit showing what he did and linking to his blog with The steps. Maybe search there. You also need to cut the rubber handle on your corny so handle lays flat.
 

SanPancho

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I understand now. Interesting. I’ll have to try this. I’ve tried searching Google and everywhere else for a way to do this and couldn’t find anything.
you ever end up trying this? i cant find my old one. and the one i made recently is giving me issues. basically, when i put the butterfly on the weight of it pushes down on the lid and tilts it, breaking seal. not sure i can see a way around that, but i dont recall having the issue on the old one so trying to figure out what went wrong...
 

Spikybits

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you ever end up trying this? i cant find my old one. and the one i made recently is giving me issues. basically, when i put the butterfly on the weight of it pushes down on the lid and tilts it, breaking seal. not sure i can see a way around that, but i dont recall having the issue on the old one so trying to figure out what went wrong...
try bending the legs of the lid down further - it will be harder to close but it should provide more upward pressure on the lid when closed - also you could raise the PSI in the keg possibly
 

SanPancho

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its already pretty tight when the legs are vertical, but when you let the handle all the way down the legs kick out and i guess thats the issue. its pretty damn stiff as it is, not sure bending down further would be wise. although i could always put something under the handle to keep it so the legs are vertical. or under the butterfly for that matter....
 
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Ridenour64

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I have not. I’ve been considering just buying another fermenter for my hazy IPA’s and other beers that require dry hopping, and then continuing to ferment my other beers in my keg.

I wanted the tri clamp port to make dry hopping easier and oxygen free, but even if I do that, I have the issue of clogged poppets. I used a floating dip tube and dry hopped at pitch, waited two weeks and this was still the result (Photos attached). It clogged immediately. Luckily 30 PSI got the beer transferred after a very long time.
 

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SanPancho

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yeah, i feel you. i have a 50% success rate in getting clear beer even with a floater. one thing i've been meaning to try and have never gotten around to is run some non-flavored dental floss through the float ball/filter set up to suspend it during fermentation. then waiting to drop it until after beers been crashed. unfortunately you cant take samples, but i've got a ispindle on the way so that'll have to be it.

one thing that seems to help is that i crash for at least 2 if not 3 days to give the biofine time to work. and after the first 24 hours i give the keg a good swirl. you cant see into the keg, but in a regular carboy you can see how little co2 bubbles sort of stick to the hop particles and keep them floating. swirling seems to help drop them out. mostly.

give those two a try.
 
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