Corny kegs or not.

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Jezwald101

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Hello all.

New to the scene of Homebrewing. Looking to get into keeping. Could someone tell me if these are the proper corny kegs that will work for 5 gallon batches of homebrew.looks like they have 2 ball Valves on either side also. Thank you. Brew on..
 

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Dr_Jeff

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What is pictured is one ball lock keg an done pin lock kegs along with a steel 20# bottle.
$50 is a good deal.

The plugs can be swapped out if you want to for consistency on the pin lock keg.
The pin lock keg is a Spartanburg for what its worth.
 

CascadesBrewer

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Used kegs sell in the $40 to $50 range for just one, so this looks like a solid price. I am not sure if the tank comes with a regulator, or if you will need to get one of those.
 
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Jezwald101

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Which is better pin lock or ball lock?. Can I change these to match. It doesn't come with a regulator. So I can get new o rings and or seals at northern brewer or somewhere like that?. Thanks in advance
 

CascadesBrewer

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I don't think there is a massive advantage to one type or the other. Ball locks are more common and there are a lot more accessories for ball lock than pin locks. Pin lock kegs are a little fatter and shorter and pin lock kegs don't have the manual release valve like ball locks. If you use threaded connectors, you can swap out pin and ball lock disconnects on your lines. I have seen kits to swap the posts on Pin lock over to Ball lock.
 

burtom

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Hello all.

New to the scene of Homebrewing. Looking to get into keeping. Could someone tell me if these are the proper corny kegs that will work for 5 gallon batches of homebrew.looks like they have 2 ball Valves on either side also. Thank you. Brew on..
If the Hydrostatic test on the CO2 bottle is past due it will cost $35 to $90 dollars to have it tested.
 

CascadesBrewer

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If the Hydrostatic test on the CO2 bottle is past due it will cost $35 to $90 dollars to have it tested.
It depend a lot on where you go. I have never had a tank tested, because the air gas place where I exchange will take an expired tank. I suspect they just include a small fee in every exchange to cover testing. When I have to get my 15# tank certified, friends have said the fire equipment store charges $15 to $20 and it takes a few days to complete.
 
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Jezwald101

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so they may or may not just exchange me tanks.. hope I can find a place that will just exchange
 

matt_m

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My gas place in far SE MI would charge you a $35 recert fee on a swap if that tank is out of date. Still not a bad deal for 2 kegs and a tank for $85.

If you put MFL connectors on your hoses you can pretty easily switch between ball and pin until you decide which way to go.
 

IslandLizard

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Most gas places will swap for a full tank now, and only very few will fill while you wait. Many swap places won't charge you if the tank you bring in happens to be out of date, as long as it's in good physical shape otherwise.

Really, call around, find out, and get pricing.

[Edit - Zooming in really helps! ;)]
Now that picture you posted, there's some sort of bent tube sticking out of the valve/connector, in the back.
It should screw off, there's a nut on it. So that should not be a problem. Remove it before you trade it in, you don't want to answer questions...
 

Deadalus

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Pin locks don't always have a manual pressure release valve. It looks like the lids might have been switched as the Coke keg has the release valve on the lid. Not having the PRV is one reason the pin locks are often less, as a new lid is about $15. You can add one in yourself for a little less but I haven't been pleased with results myself. Pin locks are shorter but fatter, about 1" diameter wider than ball locks. This can matter when setting up a keezer as far as floor space. I don't see any major dents. Personally, that's a deal breaker for me, they're just ugly but doesn't mean they aren't functional. With just one photo, any dents are likely on the back. But $50 is a good deal on a 20# tank. In general, a used ball lock without dents that pressure tests is about $40-50. Pin locks usually sell for about $30-40 in that condition. Those are 5 gallon prices. If you are lucky, sometimes nicer newer ball locks are put up for about $50-60 when someone quits the hobby.
 

Beermeister32

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Be careful, sometimes other liquids like pesticides and other chemicals are stored in Cornelius Kegs. Some chemicals can even permeate the pores of the metal and are impossible to return to food grade service.

Unless you have a solid history of those kegs I would humbly suggest you buy a good used or new set from a reputable home brew dealer or shop. My favorite are AEB Italian made kegs.
 
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Jezwald101

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So finally got to go get the kegs. Here is pics of the ball lock one. Will a regular rebuild kit work on this since the lid isn't round? And is there a way to disassy the ball locks? Opened it up and doesn't small like chemicals. Smells like water.so that's good. Does have 2 dents by the top of vessel. Is that ok? And should I replace the relief valve? Thanks
 

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CascadesBrewer

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So finally got to go get the kegs. Here is pics of the ball lock one. Will a regular rebuild kit work on this since the lid isn't round? And is there a way to disassy the ball locks? Opened it up and doesn't small like chemicals. Smells like water.so that's good. Does have 2 dents by the top of vessel. Is that ok? And should I replace the relief valve? Thanks
The posts on both the ball lock and the pin lock keg can be unscrewed with a wrench. Some ball lock kegs have a star shaped post on the gas disconnect that needs a 12 point wrench, but yours is just needs a standard wrench. You can buy special sockets notched for pin lock posts, but just using an adjustable wrench works as well.

The lid shown in the picture is for a pin lock keg. I think they are the same shape (but not positive) and the ball lock kegs have a manual release valve. You probably do not need to replace the relief valve. I only replaced one of mine that was broken.
 
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Jezwald101

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The ball lock one looks fair, no beauty. The dents should not hurt, as long as it holds pressure. Why rebuild the lid?

But more importantly, did you get the CO2 tank? That's the real value, consider the kegs were free.
The relief valve looks like dry rotted plastic on top. I did get the 20# co2 tank also and it is aluminum. Score I hope?.
 

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matt_m

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Corny lids are normally oval. I just replace all seals as a matter of practice including often tossing a set of the universal poppets in..

Aluminum cylinders are the norm for 20lb CO2. This one is waaaaay out of date unless there's another stamp somewhere but looks to be in fine shape so I doubt you'll get much hassle exchanging it (but expect to pay a recert fee.)
 

camonick

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Will a standard corny rebuild kit work on the oval shaped lid?
Those are both “standard” lids which are oval and the lids are interchangeable on both the pinlock and ball lock kegs. There is another style of lid called a racetrack lid, but that’s not what you have. For your lids, one has a static pressure relief valve originally found on most of the pin lock kegs (Coke kegs) and the other has a manual relief valve. If you pressurize the kegs and the valves don’t leak, I wouldn’t worry too much about doing anything with them. If they do leak, you have a couple options. Either replace the valves, or replace the entire lid assembly. The static valves are becoming increasingly hard to find, and the particular manual valve on your other lid is an obsolete style that might be hard to replace. You can find new lids like this by doing a google search. The dents are mostly cosmetic and nothing to be concerned with. One other thing to be aware of is the o-rings on the pinlock posts are a slightly different size than the ball lock posts.
6AEB39BA-1EBE-4643-A648-061419403716.jpeg

I did get the 20# co2 tank also and it is aluminum. Score I hope?.
That should be a good tank for a swap/trade. As mentioned above, it is WAY out of certification. Unless there’s another stamp somewhere, it was last certified in September 1981.
CCD83D06-B2B4-44C1-9FF2-5595E3AE7A86.jpeg
The certifications are good for 5 years. That doesn’t mean there’s anything wrong with that tank, it just needs tested again before it can be filled. Depending on the company you deal with for refills or swaps, be prepared to pay a recertification fee. Are there any other stamps that look like the one I circled above?
Regardless of the issues everyone has mentioned, you got a hell of a deal even if you have to do a little maintenance.
 
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Jezwald101

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Thank guys you are very helpful with getting me going here with these kegs and the tank. Ill pry just replace the lids and get new ball locks for them and rebuild kits. As for the tank, that's the only stamp I can find on it.. getting excited to do some kegging instead of all the bottling
 

camonick

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getting excited to do some kegging instead of all the bottling
I will suggest that you seriously consider Duotight fittings and EVABarrier tubing when you set up the rest of your draft system.
There is even a compatible picnic tap available now if you won’t be using standard shanks and faucets.
 
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Jezwald101

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Oh. Thats no good. I thought there were only 2 different threads one for ball lock and one for pin lock. Thanks for the information.
 

J2W2

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Oh. Thats no good. I thought there were only 2 different threads one for ball lock and one for pin lock. Thanks for the information.
I recently converted my pin lock kegs to ball locks. I ordered a mix of ball lock posts with 19/32 x 18 and 9/16 x 18 threads. One or the other worked great on all of my kegs but one. On that one, both types of ball lock fittings just slide right on, no screwing required. The mark on that keg says Goodwill Bottling, which from what I can tell is/was in British Columbia, Canada. So I have no idea what size threads those are. Possibly metric? I'm guessing those threads are closer to 1/2".
 
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Jezwald101

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They were 9/16" -18.. the gas post treads were a little messed up, that's why I couldn't get it to screw on.
 
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