corny keg won't hold pressure

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STAD

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The title pretty much says it. I have replaced all of the o-rings and all that jazz. It still leaks from the lid (even under 15 psi). If I let it sit overnight, and try to pull the relief valve, I find that all the pressure has already escaped. What are some things I can try to get it to hold pressure?

And in the event that I can't get it to hold pressure, what the hell do I do with this thing?
 
Keg lube - helped me with 2 of mine. I use it each time I keg now... probally over kill but hey.. it is working.
 
Hit it with 30PSI, it really snaps the lid into place. Assuming the keg is quite full of beer it won't really make a great deal of difference to the carbonation and once it's snapped into place and properly sealed you can then generally come down from that to the level you want but it needs that initial 'hit'.
 
As an addendum to this, you may have to experiment to get the lid in the right place (turn 180 degrees) and mess about until it seats correctly but I've never yet needed keg lube or otherwise. I's dead easy to see if you have a leak, hit it with 30PSI, remove the gas and turn the keg upside down. If you see beer coming out it isn't sealed and you have a problem. I'll bet you don't though. :)
 
Put a dime under each leg of the lid and close, works for me:mug:

I have a keg where the lid is so loose that's it's a joke and I thought I was going to have to do things like that. I can safely unlock all 12 of my kegs including the one with the lid that was ridiculously loose and leave them unlocked indefinitely. Hit it with a blast to 'snap' it into place and it'll be fine.
 
Also ensure your pressure relief valve isnt leaking or dirty. Ive found that this can be the culprit from time to time as well.
+1 on the lube as well.
-Me
 
When you put the lid on you have some wiggle room to 'clock' it a little to the left or to the right...look at the gap between the lid and the rim all the way around and try to clock it such that the gap is even all the way around. It's easy to get these a little off.

Don't push the locking bar down (i.e. lock the lid on) until after you've sealed it. Just get the lid lined up in the proper position and then give it some gas and let it seal...then lower the bar and lock it down.

I's dead easy to see if you have a leak, hit it with 30PSI, remove the gas and turn the keg upside down.

If you don't have any...make yourself some leak check solution and put it in a spray bottle. It's just water with a little liquid soap (like liquid dishwashing detergent or Softsoap) added to make it a little sudsy/foamy. Just spray it on and bubbles will form wherever there is a leak. The bottle should last a long time and it works great. I work with a LOT of pneumatics at work (including functionally testing pneumatic components/systems) and we use Leak Check solution...a LOT. Plus...this way you leak check the keg before you fill it with beer.:)

And in the event that I can't get it to hold pressure, what the hell do I do with this thing?
Sell it to me really cheap.:D
 
Also, everything I wrote above is assuming there is no damage to the lid or the sealing surface (rim) of the keg. If there is damage then you might want to take pics (macros if possible) and post them. Also, if you run your finger underneath the rim of the keg (the sealing surface)...it should be smooth all the way around. Corrosion, burrs, or scratches might have to be buffed/polished out.
 
Also ensure your pressure relief valve isnt leaking or dirty. Ive found that this can be the culprit from time to time as well.
+1 on the lube as well.
-Me

my release valve is leaking. where is the best place to get a replacement
 
Also check the o-ring to make sure you do not a a flat spot on 1 side if so try to roll it over, and +1 for the keg lube it works!!
 
Either use the spray bottle method as mentioned above, or fill it to the top with water. Pressurize, and turn it upside down. With the water on the "top" now, and the keg pressurized you should able to see quickly where the water is leaking from. Where water leaks when the keg is upside down, CO2 leaks when right-side up. That'll help pin point leaks at the keg....if the leaks are on the "in" side hoses and fittings, the spray bottle will work well.
 
Either use the spray bottle method as mentioned above, or fill it to the top with water. Pressurize, and turn it upside down. With the water on the "top" now, and the keg pressurized you should able to see quickly where the water is leaking from. Where water leaks when the keg is upside down, CO2 leaks when right-side up. That'll help pin point leaks at the keg....if the leaks are on the "in" side hoses and fittings, the spray bottle will work well.
Keep in mind that it's easier to seal against water leaks than gas leaks (and if you REALLY want to put it to the test...use Helium...MUCH harder to seal Helium than GN2 or CO2 or Air). So even if it seals water it still might not seal gas and when it's right side up. Even when full of liquid that OUT fitting will be seeing gas from the outside of the dip tube. I would still test the liquid side using gas and with leak check.

FWIW, I would test your manifold/harnesses by submerging in water and looking for bubbles where possible and use leak check elsewhere.
 

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