corn sugar

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hello, i am going to substitute corn sugar for malt to try to make a lighter beer. the plan is to add a little after i steep my grains and then add the rest toward the end of the boil. is this a good idea? will this be effective in lowering calories? The plan is to use an agressive yeast to eat all the sugar. any suggestions?

:mug:
 
If you use all corn sugar and no malt, you'll wind up with a cidery twang that probably won't taste very good....

It's really not possible to make a high ABV beer with low calories....
 
I am trying to make a hoppy ale that doesn't have a lot of calories and carbs. I weigh 300 pounds now and have determined that all the great craft beers I drink are making me fat. Of course, a lot of it has to do with the lack of exercise. Either way, I would like to make a nice ale that tastes nice but doesn't have 200 calories and 40 grams of carbs.
 
well then you need to look at less fermentables, not exchanging them.....

it doesn't matter if it's 2-row or corn sugar; you're gonna have a lot of calories unless you make beers low in starting gravities....
 
thank you az ipa for the info. You seem to be very knowledgable and have already shared great stuff. I am new to the process of home brewing and just want to make my own lighter ale that I can enjoy drinking. I just cannot handle commercial light beer, it is terrible. I am not sure I understand what you mean by starting gravities. Do you have any suggestions on what I could do to make the ale a little lighter without killing the flavor? I plan on using some citra and cascades for flavor and aroma but I am not so good with the grains and malt part of the process.
 
Specific gravity is the measure we use to indicate how much fermentable sugars are in the wort or beer. Starting gravity, or sometime called O.G./original gravity, is the measure of sugars in the wort before it is fermented. Final gravity is the measured value after fermentation is complete. We get these measurements by using a hydrometer or a refractometer. If you do not have one, you should pick up a hydrometer. It is a "must have" for brewing and costs only ~$9.

Three main things will determine the flavor of the beer: malt, being in an extract or grain version, hops and yeast. You are looking to reduce calories in the beer and there are several ways to add flavor while reducing calories. Hops can be adjusted in quantity and varieties without added any calories. Too many hops at the beginning of the boil can make the beer almost too bitter, so some caution needs to be taken. Different yeast can also add different flavors. Yeast flavors can range from neutral to fruity and estery. Malt is the area that you will need to pay the most attention to since it will be the main/only contributor of calories to the beer. It sounds like you are doing extract with steeping grain brews. You should be able to dial back the amount of extract you are using therefore reducing you starting gravity(see above) to 1.035-1.040 range and with the use of steeping grains and the proper yeast can yield a very tasty beer.

Along with malt, hops and yeast, you can add spices to the beer to increase flavor. I have a belgium wit fermenting right now that I added a good handful of orange zest at flameout. The zest combined with the belgium yeast adds tons of flavor. The original gravity of this beer was 1.040 and finished at 1.012. This gives the beer 138 calories per 12 oz.

Along with the hydrometer, you should look into brewing software such as Beersmith. It will do all the math for you to figure how many calories will be inyour beer.

So to help you further, what kind of beers interest you? What kind of style would you like to shoot for?
 
wow chunk1227, if I didn't know any better I would think you are a beer brewing professor. Thank you for your answer, you really helped me with a lot of questions I had. The beers that interest me are ales and lagers. I love IPA's but we both know they are loaded with carbs and calories. I am using beano during fermentation to cut down on the carbs. I was hoping to develop a nice hoppy ale/ipa with low calories. 138 is pretty awesome. Ideally I would like to have something around 120 or so. I am not looking to have a super high abv, maybe around 4-5, because I know that will contribute calories as well. I am going to download beer smith now. Thanks again for your help!
 
Do you realize that alcohol also contributes calories? In fact, ethanol has 7 kCal/g as opposed to the 4 kCal/g that carbohydrates contain. If you want to brew a light beer then you need to go light on the malt and also add adjuncts. Adjuncts like corn or rice usually ferment out completely, leaving ethanol with little residual carbs. To make a beer like bud light, this is how it's accomplished. Also, bud light is low in calories because it has a lower ABV (4.2%).

If you use beano to cut down on carbs, then you are going to increase the amount of sugars that the yeast can eat and create more alcohol. Beano/amylase is not going to cut down on calories by itself, it's a give and take situation.

Not to be condescending, but you could just drink less beer. One IPA a day would be about the same as 2 or 3 light beers in terms of calories, right? That's how I see it at least, but to each his own.
 
scottseverance said:
The beers that interest me are ales and lagers.
This made me laugh. Can I use that in my signature?


On a recent episode of The Sunday Session, they had the White brothers from White Labs on to talk about some of their new enzymes and yeast supplements. At one point in the podcast they were discussing how you can reduce the calorie content in your finished product. You might want to check it out. You can download it here. I think it was about the mid point of the show. The beginning was just small talk about a SF Marathon puker (not what you're thinking) and the naming of Gladstone 005 White.
 
It sounds like you need to start at square one or homebrewing 101 before you start trying to make your own low calorie beer or any recipes on you own. Chuck isn't explaining to you anything too "proffessorial" an understanding of gravities is basic brewing knowledge, and sort of the building block of brewing.

I think you really need to start with a getting a handle on the basics before you start trying stuff. I'm all for experimentation, but experimentation should come from a base knowlege and not from just trying to throw stuff together.

You have a good idea, trying to make great tasting low calorie beer, but you need to understand what goes intom making a NORMAL beer first.

Start with this book. It will give you the basic understanding you need. It also does cover recipe creation later on.

http://howtobrew.com/intro.html
 
Adjuncts like corn or rice usually ferment out completely, leaving ethanol with little residual carbs. To make a beer like bud light, this is how it's accomplished. Also, bud light is low in calories because it has a lower ABV (4.2%).

They also mix it with carbonated water to carbonate and thin it out.
 
I think they make a big beer with mostly sugars and hop it for flavor. At least that is what my relative told me. They worked for one of the big breweries for a while. They said it was just fermented "sugar water with hops for flavor mixed with carbonated water." They make a bigger beer, not sure how big I want to say half, then mix it to carbonate.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I am starting my first batch. I will definitely get some trial runs of basic home brew so that I can understand the fundamentals. Maybe someday soon I can figure out the light beer stuff.
 
So this was going to be your first batch ever? And you were going to nuke it with corn sugar? I'd be willing to bet that if you went through with it, it would have been so bad that you wouldn't have ever tried brewing again.

At least if you follow a recipe or use a kit, you'll know that there is a potential good outcome. Go ahead with this one, but in the next couple of weeks do your homework and learn everything you can. Especially, get the book that Revvy mentioned.
 
glad i didn't go througih with it! I used beer smith and calculated an amber recipe (with the help of a friend) that has 130 calories per 12 oz serving. Not bad. I can tweek the recipe and remove the victory grains and take it down to 120 calories but then the abv will be a bit lower than a normal ale. It's good times. Thanks again for all the info. Man I love beer and I love making it myself!
 
Care to post the recipe? There are a lot of people on here that can help you refine it further.
 
I have a lot of work to do on brewing I think. Once I feel confident enough to share the recipe with everyone I will. I just want to taste this batch first to make sure it is what I am looking for. If it is cider like garbage I want to refine it. Once it is good I will share it with everyone. I just don't want to get trashed. Give me 14 days to ferment and another 3 weeks to condition in bottles. I would like to thank everyone for the information they are shared. Everyone has been very helpful with this.
 
If you post the recipe, people here can tell you if it's going to tates like garbage or not. Why waste your time brewing it if you don't know.

BTW, are you related to Joan?
 
If you post the recipe, people here can tell you if it's going to tates like garbage or not. Why waste your time brewing it if you don't know.

Yeah, what are you afraid of, that we;re going to tell you it's going to suck???? It might since you really don't know alot about what you are doing yet.

One thing we do on here, is that we critique each other's recipes before we brew them. Especially if it is a style that we're not familiar with...

Heck I've got a ton of threads asking for help with certain styles and recipes...and I supposedly know what I'm doing ;)

Here's one from a couple weeks ago https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/he...emorial-5-year-aged-barleywine-recipe-195096/

And one from awhile ago. You can actually see how I went from zero understanding of the type of beer, to getting it.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/lets-partyyyy-gyle-pumpkin-porter-ale-one-mash-74927/

That's normally what we do on here, when we're trying to tweak a recipe we share it and let others give us suggestions.
 
It's really worth looking at getting a kit from Midwest, Northern brewer, Austin, or some place like that. If you have a LHBS check out the Brewer's Best kits. I know some places have lighter beer kits.

You could also just get a Cooper's kit and not add the extra DME. That lowers the alcohol level, with not too bad a hit job on the flavor. If it's your first brew you want to make it manageable.
 
Thanks Revvy. Glad to have the help form others. Also, glad to hear you are sexy and drive like a maniac. The recipe consists of 3/4 pound of crystal 40 and a half pound of victory. I used a 3 pound bag of extra light malt. I used simcoe for a full 60 minute boil and threw in cascade at 20, citra at 10 and a mix of all 3 at 5 minutes. I added a pound of corn sugar towards the end of the boil. Added some moss at 15 minutes left. I was thinking of adding some beno during fermentation but I did not this time, maybe another time I will try it. According to beer smith it is not quite a amber ale or ipa. It meets more of the specs of an ipa. I guess because of the hops. This batch isn't too light at 138 calories per 12oz serving. I would like to get around 120 if possible and will try removing the victory next time. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
oh and just saw the question now. yes bja, I am related to Joan. It is a distant cousin thing but it's pretty funny. I played in a band with a kid with the last name tweed. We used to tell people we were the bastard children of softcore porn stars. It was a good laugh, our band sucked. I think that is how I came to love beer so much.
 
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