copper manifold vs AS braid

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MattGuk

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Hi all,
just wondering if anybody could give their opinion on this.
for over a year I used 2 SS braids for my MT filter, I decided to make a copper manifold in the same arrangement the The braids were in.
anyhow, the 3 brews I have done with the copper, my efficiency dropped big time to about 60% as opposed to 76% with braids.
I batch sparge by the way, and this is the only thing that has changed, so I can only assume the copper manifold is causing an efficiency drop.

Any advice greatly welcomed.
 
Thanks for that, like I said this was the only thing that has changed and really dented my efficiency, so I have just installed braids again and will try them out on a batch this afternoon.
how does the manifold differ so much from the braids if they are aligned in the same pattern though?
 
That's curious. The manifold, braid, even a mesh bag (for BIAB) are simply tools to allow separation of the wort from the grain, I never considered that those could have an impact on mash efficiency. Assuming that you are still able to lauter the appropriate volume of wort from the mash. Would be interested in seeing other opinions on this.
 
I agree with CastleHollow. When you batch sparge, the method you use to seperate the wort from the grain doesn't have an impact on efficiency. There has to be something else in the process that is lowering it. Stir really well, vorlauf, lauter as fast as your system will allow with sticking.
 
Maybe this could be the issue, I have noticed that the copper manifold clogs easily so I can't drain fast as my bed gets compacted and I end up getting a stuck storage, so I have to drain VERY slow and takes about an hour to collect 30 litres of wort.
 
In batch sparging, the only thing that would cause a big drop is if you aren't draining the tun as efficiently - ie more wort gets left behind.

You can do a quick test with just water. Fill it with a gallon or so with the manifold in place. Drain as usual and measure what is left. Repeat with the braid.
 
I think the manifold design works better with a fly sparge, for batch sparge I find a bazooka tube works better.

I use a bazooka tube myself and all ways been happy with it. Thought about make a copper manifold that would make a u-shape with two tubes off the end, I have a big cooler.
 
I'm pretty sure my deadspace in the tun was the same with both, about 4 litres.
I'm at a loss as to where this drop could come from, I always crush my own grain so I'm sure it's not a crush issue.
the only thing that has changed over the last 3 batches is the filter type.
I have just mashed in so I will know in a couple hours if the braid 're-fit has worked.
 
Matt,
I used a stainless steel braid when I started doing all grain, the braid would get knocked around during stirring and was a pain to clean. I went to copper an it works great, I never had problems with stuck sparges as the previous posters have stated. My .02, go with copper, it's easy to clean(don't solder) and will not get dislodged during stirring.

200_4497.jpg
 
. . . so I have to drain VERY slow and takes about an hour to collect 30 litres of wort.
I'd go with this. When batch sparging, you stir like crazy to get the sugars in suspension and then drain before they can settle or cling to the grain. For a slow sparge, fly sparging has the advantage of constantly rinsing the grain bed with fresh liquor, but you lose that when batch sparging. Your manifold should work as good as a braid if you change the hole or slot configuration to allows for a faster lauter.
 
. . . the braid would get knocked around during stirring and was a pain to clean.
I'm now using a manifold type system in a larger tun, but here's the braid from my old MLT. I still use this for smaller batches. The copper core keeps it from getting knocked around and cleaning is as simple as back flushing it through the ball valve with a hose. I never have to take it off.

.

MLT11.jpg


MLT14.jpg
 
A problem I found with my manifold was that although I cut lost of very small slots, I had a fair amount of grain matter even after 2 gallons of vorlaufing. Never The whole husk but certainly lots of particles which I never got with a braid
 
I used the braid from a 3/4" x 12" water heater supply line. It is much heavier than most of the ones I see pictured. It is hose clamped on the outside of the fitting inside the tun. There is no barb so the entire passage through the valve is 1/2" I can beat the crap out of it while stirring - no problems and will drain in less than 5 minutes.
 
Ok, So far I have hit ny pre boil gravity for the first time in 3 batches so fingers crossed.
I have been able to drain much faster with the braid.
I know that when dealing with homebrew it is compulsory to drink homebrew, so here is my cream ale I'm enjoying

DSC_0908.jpg
 
Ok, So far I have hit ny pre boil gravity for the first time in 3 batches so fingers crossed.
I have been able to drain much faster with the braid.
I know that when dealing with homebrew it is compulsory to drink homebrew, so here is my cream ale I'm enjoying

Cool glass. Is that a metal base there?

I made a copper manifold for my tun, I made a figure-8 design, with an angled middle cross bar (the spigot for my cooler is at the front)
I cut probably a good hundred plus slots in in, and I can get pretty clear after about 3 qts of vorlaufing.
I don't know my exact efficiency, but I hit my expected gravity pretty much spot on each time I've used it. I even entered data into one of the brew calcuators after the fact and got within .001 of my actual results.
 
That's just a Coors pint glass that I robbed while on holiday lol.
I'm at a loss with the braid vs manifold thing, I finished my brew and was practically bang to my predicted SG.I think I will stick to my braids for now as it would appear it has helped for God knows what reason lol. I think I'm going to be busy this weekend re-brewing
 
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