Coopers Kits ?

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RiversC174

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Hey, just a quick question on the Coopers Hopped Malt Extract Kits. On the can they say they make 5 imperial gallons or 6 U.S. gallons. Many of the beginners brewing instructions I have read have said to ignore the directions on the can and follow their directions when using a beer kit. They all give directions based on a 5 gallon total volume, but the Coopers can says it makes 6 U.S. gallons. Well, the first time I brewed I followed the can and used 6 U.S. gallons. My question is this: should I have followed begginers homebrew instructions and just brewed with a final volume of 5 gallons or should I have followed the instructions on the can and used 6 gallons? On top of the 3.75 lb Coopers can I used 2 lbs. of Muntons Light dry malt extract. Because I used 6 gallons is my beer going to be watered down? Should I have used more dry malt extract because I used 6 gallons of water? Thanks a lot guys, looking forward to some answers, haha.

Joe

P.S. For my first couple of brews I am going to use hopped malt extracts just until I get fully comfortable with the process. I used a coopers kit first, are they any good and are there any better hopped malt extract kits I could use for next time? Thanks again.
 

Lounge Lizard

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Assuming you used the Lager kit, you will have beer similar to an American Lite beer. Five gallons would have been better than six. With my first brew, I went with a Coopers Lager kit and filled all the way to six gallons, just like you. Except I used 2.2 lbs. of corn sugar instead of DME. Yours will taste better than mine! Mine has bit of a cidery taste that I don't like. It would have been better with more hops too.

I have read where people use two hopped kits and omit other fermentables. You could do that or simply do a boil with some hops in it. It's not that hard, and cheaper than using two kits.

The rule of thumb seems to be one pound of fermentables per gallon of brew. I like more. You are a little less than that. I would use more next time, especially if you like alcohol... ;)
 

DAAB

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I've the instructions for Cooper kits and they say

Dissolve contents of can and other fermentables with 2 Litres of boiling water (4 pts is close enough or rinse the can out twice).

Top Up Fermenter with cold water to the 20 Litre mark mix thoroughly with plastic spoon and check temperature, idealy 21-27 deg c (70-80 deg F)

Top up with cold/hot water inorder to achieve 21-27 deg c

Take sg reading and add yeast

Note if the wort is not within the ideal temp range but within 18-32 deg c (65-90 deg f) add the yeast as the wort is vunerable and prompt addition of yeast is more important.

................................................................................................

I dont see anything wrong with following those instructions, they are nice and simple and the result will be fine.

for the additional fermentables

The IPA kit I have calls for 500g (1.1lb) of light DME+300 g (0.66lb) brewing sugar

and the Lager Kit I have calls for 1kg (2.2lb) of brewing sugar.

I would add a standard 1 kg (2.2lb) of DME to both kits

You could up the alcohol content by adding up to 8 oz of brewing sugar (corn sugar)

If you are planning on adding any hops I would keep it to a small amount and boil them for 10 mins in the water to be used for disolving the fermentables just to add a little flavour rather than bitterness.
 

Homebrewtruth

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I've the instructions for Cooper kits and they say

Dissolve contents of can and other fermentables with 2 Litres of boiling water (4 pts is close enough or rinse the can out twice).

Top Up Fermenter with cold water to the 20 Litre mark mix thoroughly with plastic spoon and check temperature, idealy 21-27 deg c (70-80 deg F)

Top up with cold/hot water inorder to achieve 21-27 deg c

Take sg reading and add yeast

Note if the wort is not within the ideal temp range but within 18-32 deg c (65-90 deg f) add the yeast as the wort is vunerable and prompt addition of yeast is more important.

................................................................................................

I dont see anything wrong with following those instructions, they are nice and simple and the result will be fine.

for the additional fermentables

The IPA kit I have calls for 500g (1.1lb) of light DME+300 g (0.66lb) brewing sugar

and the Lager Kit I have calls for 1kg (2.2lb) of brewing sugar.

I would add a standard 1 kg (2.2lb) of DME to both kits

You could up the alcohol content by adding up to 8 oz of brewing sugar (corn sugar)

If you are planning on adding any hops I would keep it to a small amount and boil them for 10 mins in the water to be used for disolving the fermentables just to add a little flavour rather than bitterness.
You don't see anything wrong with pitching the yeast at 32 degrees centigrade?
 

unionrdr

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When those instructions say to top up to 20L,they say that to get a temp so you'll know what temp water to finish topping off with to 23L to get a good pitch temp. I had trouble doing it there way the first 2 times. So I came up with my own process that works better. Check out my recipes for how I do it. That's easier than a long disertation here.
Now,if you want to make it a bit stronger & fuller bodied,top up to 19L,which equals 5.028 US gallons. 23L equals 6.072 US gallons. But even in AU,they mostly top off to 20L if they aren't adding other things.
 

Homebrewtruth

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When those instructions say to top up to 20L,they say that to get a temp so you'll know what temp water to finish topping off with to 23L to get a good pitch temp. I had trouble doing it there way the first 2 times. So I came up with my own process that works better. Check out my recipes for how I do it. That's easier than a long disertation here.
Now,if you want to make it a bit stronger & fuller bodied,top up to 19L,which equals 5.028 US gallons. 23L equals 6.072 US gallons. But even in AU,they mostly top off to 20L if they aren't adding other things.
Reducing the volume of water completely messes up the balance of the beer. I brewed an IPA, only topping it up to 20L, and it was far too bitter.
 

jmprdood

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I've always had good success with Coopers stuff. I top to 23L and use half dme and half sugar to make up the fermentables. I'll usually boil up .5oz of cascade or Willamette hops with the sugar in 2L water for 10 mins for the aroma and flavor and away we go. Not gold medal beer, but good solid home brew and dead easy.

Cheers!
 

unionrdr

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Reducing the volume of water completely messes up the balance of the beer. I brewed an IPA, only topping it up to 20L, and it was far too bitter.
Only if you use a pre hopped LME that has a lot of bittering to start with. That's why I use pre-hopped cans that only have a little bittering. Then build my own hop profile. That way,the bittering can be controled in relation to the total volume.
 

ncbrewer

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Reducing the volume of water completely messes up the balance of the beer. I brewed an IPA, only topping it up to 20L, and it was far too bitter.
Glenn Tinseth was interviewed in a podcast - http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2011/02/10/beer-bitterness-and-ibus-with-glenn-tinseth-bshb-podcast-9/
He stated that the malt/hop balance is the key to the perception of bitterness, and that the IBU:GU ratio is a good tool for evaluating this balance. (GU is the gravity units – last three digets of the SG). So more or less water should just affect the concentration of flavors, but should not affect the perceived bitterness. I realize there is some difference in opinion about this.
 
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