Cooling wort without an immersion chiller

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

eogaard

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
73
Reaction score
12
Location
Little Canada
My brother and I bought the brewers edge Mash and Boil to start apartment brewing. Our sink has a faucet that doesn't allow for attaching anything (it's one of those spray ones that you can pull out). Was looking for a way to cool the wort that doesn't involve diluting with ice water, because we're starting out just doing 2.5 gallon batches. My first thought is to fill a vessel with ice (something like a small metal bucket that wouldn't deform at almost boiling temperatures) and just dip it into the wort while stirring. Do you guys have any advice on this?
 
if your recipe does not have any hop additions late in the boil you can just put the lid on and let it cool overnight. The beer doesn't really need to be chilled quickly except that any flavor hops added in the final few minutes of the boil will become bittering hops as the hop oils continue to isomerize until the wort gets below about 170F.
 
If you can get your hands on a small pump, maybe you can connect a length of silicone tubing to the M&B outlet valve, and run that into a sink full of cold water and ice, then feed it back into the top of the M&B. Sort of a recirculation system for chilling, if you will. (The tubing is submerged in the ice water; it does not empty into it - obviously)

Similar to that, buy an immersion chiller - useful in the future? - but actually connect silicone tubing from the M&B to the inlet of the chiller, immerse the chiller in your sink of ice water, and run another length of silicone tubing from the outlet of the chiller back into the M&B. Again, you'll need a pump.

You would need to sanitize the chiller and/or tubing before use in this manner, and clean it afterwards by running very hot water through it. But that's not a big deal.
 
No, so that won't be doable for me. Also we will be using a fastferment 3 gallon conical so I don't think we can chill it in that either.

It depends on how much you want to spend to do this. I'm not a fan of no-chill brewing as there are still chemical processes going on while the wort cools, until it gets down below 170 degrees or so (DMS production is one thing, IIRC).

So chilling fast is usually a good thing. A cheap sump pump run through an immersion chiller would do it. You don't have to worry about sanitation as the water goes through the inside of the chiller.

Harbor Freight has a pond pump (620 gph) for about $40. If you want something a little more substantial, home stores have stuff that should work.
 
Thanks for the recommendations guys! I think we'll go the route of finding a pump + immersion chiller and pumping cold water from a reservoir. Seems like this will make the most sense
 
Thanks for the recommendations guys! I think we'll go the route of finding a pump + immersion chiller and pumping cold water from a reservoir. Seems like this will make the most sense

Sounds like the best option. One thing to note about immersion chillers: unless you move either the chiller (swishing it around) or the wort past the chiller (stirring it or using a whirlpool arm), it'll not chill all that fast. Probably you won't be able to swish the chiller that well so sanitize a spoon and use that to stir the wort past the chiller.
 
Sounds like the best option. One thing to note about immersion chillers: unless you move either the chiller (swishing it around) or the wort past the chiller (stirring it or using a whirlpool arm), it'll not chill all that fast. Probably you won't be able to swish the chiller that well so sanitize a spoon and use that to stir the wort past the chiller.
Thanks! I'll add that to the list
 
When I was caregiving for my mom we had a hose with an end that fit over the tub faucet and made it into a hand held shower. You could rig one of these for way less then 40$. I also have a faucet similar to yours and mine has a fitting on the end of the hose so you can replace the nozzle. You might be able to find an adapter to go between your garden hose and faucet hose.
 
It depends on how much you want to spend to do this. I'm not a fan of no-chill brewing as there are still chemical processes going on while the wort cools, until it gets down below 170 degrees or so (DMS production is one thing, IIRC).

So chilling fast is usually a good thing. A cheap sump pump run through an immersion chiller would do it. You don't have to worry about sanitation as the water goes through the inside of the chiller.

I've done the no chill and the fast chill on similar batches and I don't notice any difference in the taste nor have any other no chill brewers mentioned any off flavors from doing it. I've even done the fast chill to below 170 and then no chill from there on down with no noticeable differences.
 
That is what I was thinking at first, but this is an all in one unit, like a Grainfather.

Oh, I see. Well, then maybe just dumping the the wort in a big kettle after boiling would work. Still easier and probably cheaper, than the pump.

But on another note, I saw connectors for the sink which work on every single outlet. So an immersion chiller is not impossible to use. Just don't ask me what the name was for this type of connector. I saw it somewhere here so maybe somebody else can help.
 
If your sink is a double sink, get a fish pump, and fill the first sink with ice water. Use the fish pump to drive water through the wort chiller. Get something that drives 500 GPH or greater. The back pressure from the small tube size and length of the tube will restrict the flow. allow the wort chiller exhaust to flow in the other half of the sink. use a 25' chiller to ensure the pump can force the water through. Fish pond pumps are very cheap - like $15.00-$20.00
 
I've done the no chill and the fast chill on similar batches and I don't notice any difference in the taste nor have any other no chill brewers mentioned any off flavors from doing it. I've even done the fast chill to below 170 and then no chill from there on down with no noticeable differences.

RM, this is long, but I think you'll appreciate where it ends up. Bear with me:

It's always tough to know whether it doesn't make a difference, or that some people simply can't perceive it.

As well, people may come to accept a taste as part of the flavor profile even though it is a flaw for the style. There's some evidence people may do that with oxidation, and I've seen it with some people and extract twang.

From Barth's "The Chemistry of Beer" p. 205:

"Dimethyl sulfide (DMS, Fig. 11.10) can give a cooked vegetable flavor to beer. It has a flavor threshold of 50 micrograms per liter (50 ppb). Dimethyl sulfide is continuously produced in hot wort from a sulfur-containing amino acid called S-methylmethionine (Fig. 11.11) from the malt. DMS can be present at objectionable levels if boiling is not vigorous enough, if condensed steam is allowed to return to the kettle, or if some of the wort stays hot for a long time after boiling stops. This is the reason that wort is chilled as quickly as possible after the boil."


The question of course is that presuming the boil has been "vigorous enough," how much more DMS will be produced as the wort cools from boiling to whatever point where DMS is no longer being produced....

In this section of the book it doesn't say at what temp DMS production ceases, though I've read elsewhere various temps, including 156 F and 176 F. If one could get the wort temp below, say, 150 F, and then let it naturally cool the rest of the way, presumably DMS is minimized or eliminated.

As well, it also depends on whether we can perceive what is produced, or not.

*******

Further: the precursor SMM is in the malt; makes me wonder if different malts have different amounts of this, and thus different production of DMS. I'll have to dig into that. Possible that some doing no-chill are using recipes/malts that naturally produce less of SMM, and thus less DMS, and so it isn't as important in those contexts.

I don't know the answer to that. So to the web I go, and I find this on the MoreBeer site:

"Proteins and DMS. Protein levels also increase the potential for dimethyl sulphide (DMS) formation in beer. The precursor of DMS, S-methyl methionine (SMM), is formed through protein breakdown during malting (14,15). Much of the SMM is convetted to DMS through thermal decomposition during kilning and wort boiling. DMS formed during kilning and wort boiling is lost to the atmosphere. Pale malts generally have higher levels of SMM than do darker, highly kilned malts. When the length or vigor of boiling is inadequate to convett all residual SMM, DMS may continue to form as the wort cools. This DMS may persist into the beer. Although some DMS is desirable in lager beers, levels in excess of 50 ppb are thought to contribute a cooked or sweet corn flavor. Six-row malts contain higher levels of the DMS precursor SMM, presumably because of their higher protein content."

So....it would appear that, yes, the malt is an intervening variable. A darker malt bill will have less SMM and thus DMS produced than one using light malts.

Whether no-chill is a "process flaw" will thus depend on the grain bill. Possible two people using no-chill will produce different DMS levels because their malt bills are different.

*******

As I've often said on HBT, people get to decide how to brew, and to brew in a way that makes them happy, and there are many ways to get there. We get to choose....I like that. :) So if no-chill makes someone happy, more power to them.

My personal brewing odyssey has been one of continuous quality improvement. Whenever I learn of a process element that is supposed to improve the quality of the beer, I try to adopt it. Some of that is simple and obvious, such as the source of one's water. Or controlling fermentation temp. Or keeping oxygen away from the beer following fermentation.

Since, apparently, DMS is produced while no-chill is ongoing until a certain temp is reached, it was part of my process improvements that I would continue to chill wort to minimize DMS production.

Since it's also apparently dependent on the malt bill....it would seem the most prudent course of action, if one wants to be sure to minimize DMS, is to chill below the critical temp as quickly as possible, regardless of the malt bill.

@eogaard can choose whatever approach he wants. Perhaps he'll try both approaches and decide for himself what works best given his situation and palate and grain bills.

YMMV.
 
Last edited:
I do 2.5 gallon batches in the kitchen. What I do is chill to about 80 as quickly as I can, which doesn't take terribly long. Maybe 20-30 minutes. Then dump it in my FV and put in ferm chamber set at 66 or whatever I'm fermenting at and come back and pitch the yeast later. Sometimes same day or next morning, depending on what time I finish brewing. You said you're using conical so I don't know if you have a ferm chamber but I'm assuming you're controlling ferm temp somehow, so maybe that's an option.
 
When I started brewing, I had no access to water, especially winter when any garden hose would freeze. I grabbed a 22 lbs of ice (the big bags from the gas station) and 1-2 gal water in a bucket. Then, I took a harbor freight pond pump and recirculated the ice water through an immersion chiller. The ice will last longer and have more chilling capacity if you add just enough water to cover the pump. I still use the method to get down to lager pitching temps.
 
My brother and I bought the brewers edge Mash and Boil to start apartment brewing. Our sink has a faucet that doesn't allow for attaching anything (it's one of those spray ones that you can pull out). Was looking for a way to cool the wort that doesn't involve diluting with ice water, because we're starting out just doing 2.5 gallon batches. My first thought is to fill a vessel with ice (something like a small metal bucket that wouldn't deform at almost boiling temperatures) and just dip it into the wort while stirring. Do you guys have any advice on this?
2.5 gallons is small enough you could possibly do the ice bath in the kitchen sink method. The problem is still taking a pot of boiling temperature liquid and risk sloshing or spilling it on yourself. 3rd degree burns arent pleasant. eventually if you decide to up your brewing volume to 5 gallons , I would suggest investing in an immersion chiller .Might need to redo some plumbing to get a hookup close by. As simple as sweating in ,or if cpvc gluing in , or even a SharkBite fitting (no glue, no sweat),a tee fitting ,threaded nipple or pertinent connection and installing an additional hose bib fitting on the cold side.
 
When I started brewing, I had no access to water, especially winter when any garden hose would freeze. I grabbed a 22 lbs of ice (the big bags from the gas station) and 1-2 gal water in a bucket. Then, I took a harbor freight pond pump and recirculated the ice water through an immersion chiller. The ice will last longer and have more chilling capacity if you add just enough water to cover the pump. I still use the method to get down to lager pitching temps.
Done this myself many times. Works as long as the ice holds out.
 
I frequently brew on the loading dock of my shop, where there is no water. I use a recirculating chilling system, as others have mentioned above. It works great, so well in fact that I use it even when I brew in another location where there is water.

What I do is first recirculate from a bucket of tap water (if the weather is cold I leave it outside the night before). That water gets fairly hot after recirculation, so I put a lid on it and save it to be used as my wash water for cleanup. Then I switch to recirculating from a cooler filled with 20lb of ice and another bucket of water. The resulting warm water is used as rinse water during cleanup.

There's some photos of my chiller in this post. I use a Drummond 1/10HP water transfer pump, which has proven to be solid and reliable.
 
Someone (I guess that's me) should also mention that a prolonged cold break (slow chill) may result in chill haze down the line. Not that chill haze is a bad thing, i.e., not affecting the taste of the beer, but if clear beer is your goal then a quick post-boil chill is necessary to drop those proteins out of suspension before going into the fermenter.
 
I agree with the above who recommend the bucket of ice water and pump with an immersion chiller Start out with just cold tap water in the bucket, as you don't want to waste ice when the wort is hot. You'll probably have to change the water a few times along the way. Then when the wort gets cooler, pour a bunch of ice into the bucket, and keep adding ice and run the system until the wort is at pitching temp.

You're in MN--check the garden section at Fleet Farm or Menard's for a pond or "waterfall" pump.
 
Another great place to buy pumps is online. I picked one up off Amazon for 18$Can on sale that was quality equivalent to a 50$pump and does the trick wonderfully.

Then like others have said, do cold water and later ice water. To be honest I don't even do ice water sometimes since my sinks hold enough cold water and it chills fast enough.
 
Here's a thought. This is what I did last week because all my outdoor hoses were frozen. I also happen to have a plate chiller hanging around. It worked pretty well. Hooked up a chugger pump to a plate chiller and dropped the chiller in a bucket of snow. I did not run any extra cooling through the place chiller. Took about 30min to chill. Next time I'm going to use a pond pump and recirculate ice water through the chiller lines. This system could work for you.
 

Attachments

  • 96574211-5FF5-4E3E-A1CE-F8789B51F23A.JPG
    96574211-5FF5-4E3E-A1CE-F8789B51F23A.JPG
    1 MB · Views: 29
  • IMG_8308 2.JPG
    IMG_8308 2.JPG
    1.8 MB · Views: 30
  • IMG_7855 2.JPG
    IMG_7855 2.JPG
    1.9 MB · Views: 27
I recently kitchen brewed a 3 gallon batch. My kettle just fits into the sink, stuck the pot in, filled the sink with 1 bag of ice and cold water. After 20 minutes I syphoned the water out of the sink (careful it'll be really warm) and down the drain. Then refilled the sink with cold water and tossed 3 sealed and sanitized frozen bottles of water into the wort. I switched the water once more and that got me down to pitch temp.

I'm thinking next time, once the sink water is below scalding to turn the tap on a trickle and run the syphon so it's slowly cycling water past the kettle and get less insulation from the water bath.
 
Last time I brewed we were in the middle of a fruitfly invasion and I didn't want to leave the wort open long enough to run the immersion chiller. So I drained the hot kettle right into a white plastic bucket lined with a paint strainer bag. I lifted out the bag to filter out all the hot break and the hops, then put a lid on the bucket and set it outside (I'm in Minnesota) for a few hours until it was cool enough to pitch.

Or maybe I pulled out the bag to filter it right before I pitched the yeast. I don't remember that little detail.

Frozen water bottles are good for dropping the temperature 10 degrees or so. I wouldn't use them to try to drop it 100 degrees.
 
if you have a fermenter that can stand the heat and heat changes, so hdpe or steel, you can just dump the wort in the fermenter and use an icebath.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top