Converting oxygen regulator to ball lock setup

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KarmaCitra

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I've searched all over and only found one post pertaining to this, and the solution required machining the parts which I don't have the means to do.

I have a welding oxygen tank with the regulator that's compatible with the wand. It's worked fine but now have the capability to oxygenate using TC connections and ball lock connects. Problem is I'm not sure how to convert this small tubing out of the regulator into a width that can accommodate a ball lock connection. Any ideas?
 

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It might seem backwards because of the way you are thinking about it (increasing size) but a reducer coupling would work. You probably have 1/4" ID (inside diameter) tubing off the regulator? Then whatever size ID your gas line is to the your ball lock QD. Suppose it was 5/16" ID then a 5/16" x 1/4" reducer coupling. In this instance it would be barbed SS. That would be simplest in my opinion, just one fitting. I'd consider a ball valve in the line too as the O2 tank is potentially located somewhere not right near where you are working, possibly mounted. I have big tank chained to the wall myself.

I don't have any TC fittings but if you have a TC fitting leading to tubing, you could work with the ID off the TC to a reducer coupling. If it is a larger diameter then you might not find the specific reducer coupling you want in which case you could step down in ID size.
 

Deadalus

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Another way you could do it is if the fitting out of your regulator unscrews, is to find an adapter that uses the correct thread size for the regulator output. The threads on the regulator might be 1/4"NPT so something like a 1/4"NPT x 1/4" male flare adapter. Then you could use a 5/16" barbed x 1/4" swivel flare connector. That's the flare size on a ball lock QD. Or you could get the adapter with ptc (push-to-connect) on the other side and use Evabarrier tubing. Just note that Evabarrier tubing uses the outside diameter (OD) while barbed fittings are for ID. Either of those would actually be simpler as you wouldn't have the reducer coupling spliced in.

Just a note on the 1/4"NPT x 1/4" male flare adapter, you might need a washer on it. The ball lock QDs that have male flare connections have an internal rubber(?) gasket, as do most shutoff check valves with flare connections but the adapter might not.
 
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Nate R

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I have a welding oxygen tank with the regulator that's compatible with the wand
What size/ type tank are you currently using? The little red disposable kind, or a larger 5# or above?

I ask because with the TC i assume you are going to oxygenate a concial/ tank? This creates a little more pressure usually, and i found in my 5 gallon conical thoose little tanks need a little more pressure to pump the oxygen in. They were not lasting long for me. Instead, i would suggest a "food grade" tank with a better regulator. Gonna be like $200 or so all-in, but saves in the long run.
 
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KarmaCitra

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What size/ type tank are you currently using? The little red disposable kind, or a larger 5# or above?

I ask because with the TC i assume you are going to oxygenate a concial/ tank? This creates a little more pressure usually, and i found in my 5 gallon conical thoose little tanks need a little more pressure to pump the oxygen in. They were not lasting long for me. Instead, i would suggest a "food grade" tank with a better regulator. Gonna be like $200 or so all-in, but saves in the long run.
I'm using the 5# tank, not the disposable ones. Regulator I'm using one of these regulators. Looking closely it doesn't look like I can unscrew the barb but I could be wrong.
 

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KarmaCitra

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It might seem backwards because of the way you are thinking about it (increasing size) but a reducer coupling would work. You probably have 1/4" ID (inside diameter) tubing off the regulator? Then whatever size ID your gas line is to the your ball lock QD. Suppose it was 5/16" ID then a 5/16" x 1/4" reducer coupling. In this instance it would be barbed SS. That would be simplest in my opinion, just one fitting. I'd consider a ball valve in the line too as the O2 tank is potentially located somewhere not right near where you are working, possibly mounted. I have big tank chained to the wall myself.

I don't have any TC fittings but if you have a TC fitting leading to tubing, you could work with the ID off the TC to a reducer coupling. If it is a larger diameter then you might not find the specific reducer coupling you want in which case you could step down in ID size.
My tank is small so I just carry it to where I need it. I'll see if I can find a reducing coupler. I assume I'd keep a little hose between the barb and the coupler then run the 5/16" tubing after the coupler?
 

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My O2 line terminates with a 1/4" FFL. I can link it to most things I need to; from yeast starters, kettle outflows to FVs. Maybe even sausage rolls?
 
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KarmaCitra

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My O2 line terminates with a 1/4" FFL. I can link it to most things I need to; from yeast starters, kettle outflows to FVs. Maybe even sausage rolls?
Yeah this one doesn't have a threaded connection, just a barb at the end. Could be threaded on the inside but afraid to tweak it and break the internals. Maybe someone has experience with these specific regulators?
 

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I may be misunderstanding the desire here because this sounds really easy. You mentioned ball lock - so, get a flare fitting with the same size barb as the regulator and connect a tube with some hose clamps.

If needed you can measure the diameter of the O2 fitting and figure out if it's 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, or whatever. It'll be something like this: Swivel Nut Set 1/4 x 5/16 Barb [SwvlNutSet-1/4nX5/16b-04C03293ih] - $1.41 : The Chi-Company, a home brewing company since 1996, New and used beverage equipment for Homebrewing, Home winemaking, Soda systems and used Pepsi vending equipment

What's on the regulator now is undoubtedly thread but if you remove it it could strip or break if a high strength threadlocker was used. Just measure the barb itself.
 

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I may be misunderstanding the desire here because this sounds really easy. You mentioned ball lock - so, get a flare fitting with the same size barb as the regulator and connect a tube with some hose clamps.

If needed you can measure the diameter of the O2 fitting and figure out if it's 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, or whatever. It'll be something like this: Swivel Nut Set 1/4 x 5/16 Barb [SwvlNutSet-1/4nX5/16b-04C03293ih] - $1.41 : The Chi-Company, a home brewing company since 1996, New and used beverage equipment for Homebrewing, Home winemaking, Soda systems and used Pepsi vending equipment

What's on the regulator now is undoubtedly thread but if you remove it it could strip or break if a high strength threadlocker was used. Just measure the barb itself.
Working the other end would work too. I thought the gas QDs were 5/16" barbs but looks like they are 1/4" barbs which is what I have seen on O2 regulators. (My barbed swivel flare nuts use a 5/16" barb on my gas QDS, they're kinda fat.) Maybe there's other sizes too, I thought they were all standardized for gas and liquid but I've been using the flare ones for a long time now. I was surprised recently when I noticed that the Duotight ptc QDs came in multiple sizes.

There's a nut on that regulator barb that was posted but I don't know about it whether it would come off either. I was thinking the regulator in question was more like one of these, but the one linked looks a lot like the medical grade one I have.
 
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Deadalus

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My tank is small so I just carry it to where I need it. I'll see if I can find a reducing coupler. I assume I'd keep a little hose between the barb and the coupler then run the 5/16" tubing after the coupler?
That would work for the suggestion I made for the reducer coupling but @tracer bullet 's suggestion ought to work as a gas QD barb is 1/4" not 5/16" as I was thinking. I used 1/4" line on both my O2 regulators but looking at the specific regulator you linked they say to use 3/16" fish tank line. I don't think you'd have any problem getting vinyl tubing of 3/16" ID on a 1/4" barb, stick the tubing in some hot water if needed. The tubing size you currently have is likely printed somewhere on the tubing.
 

tracer bullet

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The other end of the fitting in the regulator is probably like 1/8 NPT but will agree it's a gamble to remove it and find out. I'd just run it as is and adjust he ball lock side accordingly. It's not a line (I wouldn't think) that would always be on where you need to think of hard plumbed stainless or something. Barbs w/ clamps should be enough.
 
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KarmaCitra

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That would work for the suggestion I made for the reducer coupling but @tracer bullet 's suggestion ought to work as a gas QD barb is 1/4" not 5/16" as I was thinking. I used 1/4" line on both my O2 regulators but looking at the specific regulator you linked they say to use 3/16" fish tank line. I don't think you'd have any problem getting vinyl tubing of 3/16" ID on a 1/4" barb, stick the tubing in some hot water if needed. The tubing size you currently have is likely printed somewhere on the tubing.
Yep it's 3/16" ID tubing
 
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KarmaCitra

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I may be misunderstanding the desire here because this sounds really easy. You mentioned ball lock - so, get a flare fitting with the same size barb as the regulator and connect a tube with some hose clamps.

If needed you can measure the diameter of the O2 fitting and figure out if it's 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, or whatever. It'll be something like this: Swivel Nut Set 1/4 x 5/16 Barb [SwvlNutSet-1/4nX5/16b-04C03293ih] - $1.41 : The Chi-Company, a home brewing company since 1996, New and used beverage equipment for Homebrewing, Home winemaking, Soda systems and used Pepsi vending equipment

What's on the regulator now is undoubtedly thread but if you remove it it could strip or break if a high strength threadlocker was used. Just measure the barb itself.
Guess I was just overthinking it. I think my gas lines are 5/16" but the post has the swivel nut so I can just swap it out. To your point I don't use it often so it doesn't have to be a dedicated connection.
 

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Guess I was just overthinking it. I think my gas lines are 5/16" but the post has the swivel nut so I can just swap it out. To your point I don't use it often so it doesn't have to be a dedicated connection.

For some completely unknown reason, the beverage industry seems to have standardized on 5/16" ID tubing for Co2 lines when it's completely unnecessary. No matter though, you're making a completely dedicated hose for adding oxygen so just get the correct sized tubing for the barb on the regulator and get the matching barb size for the grey QD. Maybe you didn't know, but if you get a grey QD with a MFL output, you can get any hose barb size swivel adapter for it including 3/16, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2"

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Alternatively, you can grab a length of 4mm ID EVA barrier tubing and just push this QD on.

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