Controller Wiring Help - 240V 50A 9000W, BCS460

[tmacd3]

Hello!
I'm in the process of putting together a 3 Vessel, 30 Gallon each, 2 pump eHERMS brewery set up, and I'd like to get some feedback on the controller design so far. Some details are in the drawing, and I'll clarify a few things here as well.

- 240V 50A wiring set up
- Devices controlled manually or by BCS460
- BCS460 is an internet connected temperature and relay control system.
- BCS460 is fed power off the main line, and its regulated down to suitable level
- 2 X 4500W Heating elements in Hot Liquor Tank, same in Boil
- Only 1 pair of elements on at once, controlled via switch. The selection system seems clunky, I'd like some input on it. Same with Contactor Activation. Just noticing that the Red leg would always be hot past the contactor
- 2 pumps
- extra plug for fan
- Each device has switch with 3 options, Off, Manual, Automatic
- Manual turns device On fully
- Automatic allows SSR to be turned on/off by BCS460
- Emergency stop button trips GFCI
- Key switch to provide main power (though I might scrap the key)
- Lights showing whenever a device is powered
- fuses at elements

Nothing is final yet, and I'm always open to suggestions on things. I like the BCS460 system for the level of control it provides as well as the data logging options. They are sometimes not physically included inside the main enclosure of the control panel, and instead act as a central control system for a brewery/fermentation set up, feeding signals to various stations around the brewery. I opted to include it directly inside my enclosure as I don't think I'll be requiring it for anything other than brewing. I assume I'd connect it via ethernet/wifi, though this isn't included in the diagram (I've seen several enclosure network options, but I'd like some suggestions). I also haven't included the temperature probe connections yet, though I planned on the XLR temperature probes that are readily available.

It is quite a bit to take in, apologies if it is sometimes difficult to read. I'm happy to answer any questions, or explain my thought process.

I'll attach the schematics here, as well as provide a link to imgure here

 

[doug293cz]

Didn't find any obvious errors in wiring.

Some around here are very negative on having the EPO trip the GFCI. You can avoid that by using an NC mushroom switch in series with the key switch.

It looks like the selector switches you are using may be lighted (based on how they are wired). If so, then you don't need the extra lights for the pumps and fan.

80A SSR's are overkill for the pumps and fan. If you are just using them to minimize the number of different component PN's in use, then thats legit.

I can't see an easier way to do the element selection switching.

Brew on

 

[tmacd3]

Thanks for the reply!

I've actually noticed a few things myself, I'll clarify so as to hopefully avoid sending anyone down an correct path.

I initially included an Altronix AL624, which I thought was a power supply that would take 120V AC and put out 6V DC. It turns out that the AL624 is for switching lower voltage AC (16-24V AC) to 6V DC. The BCS460 runs on anywhere from 6-10V DC which makes it a bit of a pain to switch from main AC. After searching around, a suitable solution seems to be to actually mount an AC plug outlet inside the case, and use the plug that the BCS460 comes with. This thread on the ECC forums discusses this and suggests something like this outlet. Seems simple, cheap, and easy, great!

I will have a 50A GFCI in a spa panel providing power to this controller. On the point of emergency shut off, I really like the mushroom button suggestion. Why isn't this normally always done this, perhaps because some controller design don't include this initial Coil?? It seems like I could include a button like this inline with the coil activation line for the 2 mains at the beginning, and that would cut all power without tripping the GFCI.

On the point of 80A SSR for pumps/fans, yeah its explicitly to keep the part numbers low, same reason the switches are all the same as well.

Good point on the switches I've included being illuminated, I actually didn't pick up on that when I was putting this together. Would this be an example of a switch that was included in my diagram? Its nice that I can remove the lights at the pumps, but perhaps it would make more sense to use illuminated switches for pumps and fans, and non illuminated switches for everything else (any suggestions on specific models/stores?) and 220v lamps at the mains power in, and element pairs.

Thanks for the help!

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks for the reply!

I've actually noticed a few things myself, I'll clarify so as to hopefully avoid sending anyone down an correct path.

I initially included an Altronix AL624, which I thought was a power supply that would take 120V AC and put out 6V DC. It turns out that the AL624 is for switching lower voltage AC (16-24V AC) to 6V DC. The BCS460 runs on anywhere from 6-10V DC which makes it a bit of a pain to switch from main AC. After searching around, a suitable solution seems to be to actually mount an AC plug outlet inside the case, and use the plug that the BCS460 comes with. This thread on the ECC forums discusses this and suggests something like this outlet. Seems simple, cheap, and easy, great!

I didn't look at your choice of low voltage power supply. Glad you picked up the problem.

I will have a 50A GFCI in a spa panel providing power to this controller. On the point of emergency shut off, I really like the mushroom button suggestion. Why isn't this normally always done this, perhaps because some controller design don't include this initial Coil?? It seems like I could include a button like this inline with the coil activation line for the 2 mains at the beginning, and that would cut all power without tripping the GFCI.

Yeah, I think the GFCI tripping EPO is used to avoid needing an extra contactor. But, with your design that contactor is not extra. The switch you linked should work just fine.

Good point on the switches I've included being illuminated, I actually didn't pick up on that when I was putting this together. Would this be an example of a switch that was included in my diagram? Its nice that I can remove the lights at the pumps, but perhaps it would make more sense to use illuminated switches for pumps and fans, and non illuminated switches for everything else (any suggestions on specific models/stores?) and 220v lamps at the mains power in, and element pairs.

Thanks for the help!

That switch will not work as is. It needs to have the 2 NC blocks replaced with 2 more NO blocks (http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...shbutton_Accessories/Contact_Blocks/ECX1040-2. The NC blocks will be "on" when the selector knob is in the center position.

Brew on