Control panel build-help

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AceCC

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I’m working on my first control panel build. It’s fairly simple but Im having issues figuring out how to wire these LED Switches. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The NC contacts, the ones with a red block, are closed when the switch is in the off position. Those are normally used on the pump and boil switches to prevent the main switch from operating the contacter if you have left either in the on position.

The NO contacts, the ones with a green block, are closed with the switch is in the on position. Those you use for the actual function needed.

The X1 and X2 terminals are the connectors for the indicator lamp. Polarity is not a problem apparently, but as to the voltage needed, you will have to check the specifications out on the supplier's site. It can be 12V, 24V or 110/240V. You can pop off the connector modules from the metal base to check the exact model fitted. I've attached the Schnieder Electrical instruction sheet which appears to be the same modules as the Electric Brewing Supply ones.
 

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The NC contacts, the ones with a red block, are closed when the switch is in the off position. Those are normally used on the pump and boil switches to prevent the main switch from operating the contacter if you have left either in the on position.

The NO contacts, the ones with a green block, are closed with the switch is in the on position. Those you use for the actual function needed.

The X1 and X2 terminals are the connectors for the indicator lamp. Polarity is not a problem apparently, but as to the voltage needed, you will have to check the specifications out on the supplier's site. It can be 12V, 24V or 110/240V. You can pop off the connector modules from the metal base to check the exact model fitted. I've attached the Schnieder Electrical instruction sheet which appears to be the same modules as the Electric Brewing Supply ones.
Thank you but I’m really confused now. Maybe I purchased the wrong switches. I had plans on one of these turning on the 220 side where the heating element with PiD, and 1 would turn on the 2 110 accessories outlets and 1 would turn on the 110 thumper pre heat element
 
It is always good to follow up the specs, by using an ohm meter to verify continuity of terminals when the switch is either open or closed position. If you have a small power supply then you can also run some current through, at the proper voltage, to verify that the LED lights work in the correct switch positions.
 
Thank you but I’m really confused now. Maybe I purchased the wrong switches. I had plans on one of these turning on the 220 side where the heating element with PiD, and 1 would turn on the 2 110 accessories outlets and 1 would turn on the 110 thumper pre heat element
Can you post your build circuit design, then we can guide you on how they need to be connected and if you are missing anything.
 
Thank you but I’m really confused now. Maybe I purchased the wrong switches. I had plans on one of these turning on the 220 side where the heating element with PiD, and 1 would turn on the 2 110 accessories outlets and 1 would turn on the 110 thumper pre heat element
Most of the switches typically used on brew control panels are rated for a maximum of 10A, and heating elements usually draw well over that amount of current. This is why in most designs the switches are used to control a contactor (high current double pole relay) which actually connects/disconnects power from the heating element circuit branches.

As @bruce_the_loon said, a schematic design for the controller you a planning would be a big help to those trying to offer assistance.

Brew on :mug:
 
The NC contacts, the ones with a red block, are closed when the switch is in the off position. Those are normally used on the pump and boil switches to prevent the main switch from operating the contacter if you have left either in the on position.

The NO contacts, the ones with a green block, are closed with the switch is in the on position. Those you use for the actual function needed.

The X1 and X2 terminals are the connectors for the indicator lamp. Polarity is not a problem apparently, but as to the voltage needed, you will have to check the specifications out on the supplier's site. It can be 12V, 24V or 110/240V. You can pop off the connector modules from the metal base to check the exact model fitted. I've attached the Schnieder Electrical instruction sheet which appears to be the same modules as the Electric Brewing Supply ones.
Not a lot of useful information on that single page document. Is this the doc you meant to post?

Brew on :mug:
 
I don’t really have a written out design. I’ll try to explain what I’m after and what I’ve done so far.

My goal is to have a panel with the following:

The left red switch below to turn power on/off to the PiD with SSR that’s running my 5500w 220 element

The green middle switch is to turn power on to 2x 110 outlets for accessories ( pump etc..)

The left red switch is for the 110 element for the thumper pre heat

And I wanted the mushroom switch to kill power to the panel as an emergency shutoff
 

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I don’t really have a written out design. I’ll try to explain what I’m after and what I’ve done so far.

My goal is to have a panel with the following:

The left red switch below to turn power on/off to the PiD with SSR that’s running my 5500w 220 element

The green middle switch is to turn power on to 2x 110 outlets for accessories ( pump etc..)

The left red switch is for the 110 element for the thumper pre heat

And I wanted the mushroom switch to kill power to the panel as an emergency shutoff
Here are pictures of the what I have wired so far. I think I have almost everything figured out except for the main kill switch. I am more than willing to talk to someone on the phone that’s willing to help
 

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Some questions:
  • What is the power rating of your thumper preheat element?
  • What is the current rating on the breaker for the structure circuit that will be providing power to the control panel?
  • What size wire do you plan to run from the wall to the control panel?
  • What is the current rating of your "emergency power off" switch?
  • Are you aware that SSRs do not remove voltage from their switched loads (they just limit current to very low values)?
  • Are you aware that the most common failure for SSRs is to get stuck in the "on" mode (either temporarily due to over temperature, or permanently due to internal component failure)?
Brew on :mug:
 
I think I figured out my issue, I need to add the following: 1x 2 Pole 63a, 220v Coil, DIN Rail Contactor and 2x 1 pole 25a, coil, DIN Rail Contactor

  • What is the power rating of your thumper preheat element? 1500 w
  • What is the current rating on the breaker for the structure circuit that will be providing power to the control panel? 60a
  • What size wire do you plan to run from the wall to the control panel? 6awg
  • What is the current rating of your "emergency power off" switch? 10a but that should be ok with using a contacter
  • Are you aware that SSRs do not remove voltage from their switched loads (they just limit current to very low values)? Yes
  • Are you aware that the most common failure for SSRs is to get stuck in the "on" mode (either temporarily due to over temperature, or permanently due to internal component failure)? Yes
 
I think I figured out my issue, I need to add the following: 1x 2 Pole 63a, 220v Coil, DIN Rail Contactor and 2x 1 pole 25a, coil, DIN Rail Contactor

  • What is the power rating of your thumper preheat element? 1500 w
  • What is the current rating on the breaker for the structure circuit that will be providing power to the control panel? 60a
  • What size wire do you plan to run from the wall to the control panel? 6awg
  • What is the current rating of your "emergency power off" switch? 10a but that should be ok with using a contacter
  • Are you aware that SSRs do not remove voltage from their switched loads (they just limit current to very low values)? Yes
  • Are you aware that the most common failure for SSRs is to get stuck in the "on" mode (either temporarily due to over temperature, or permanently due to internal component failure)? Yes
They will be a definite improvement to the safety of the design.

Brew on :mug:
 
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