Consecration kit from MoreBeer

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mbbransc

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Bottle (2) gallons of each separately. With the remaining (3) gallons of each, do 20/80, 50/50, and 80/20 splits. That way, you end up with (5) different beers.
 

TrickyDick

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Well...


I didn't do this.


I bottled all 5 gallons of the more soured version. I haven't as yet done anything with the other version.

I popped a bottle a few weeks ago. I had finished them with corks. It wasn't carbonated yet so I re-corked it. Popped it a couple weeks later and was ready! Very good!
I've not had commercial COnsecration in a few years. I have a 3 yr old bottle in the fridge. Heck, I brewed MY version 3 years ago too!
Had another bottle tonight, fully carbonated, and wow! Great stuff!

TD
 

The_Nid_Hog

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Anybody know if MoreBeer is still making the kit? I never got one, but I'd be up for it if it meant getting some Vinnie barrel fragments.

I've been brewing a version of this for about three years now, I keep the grain bill generally the same, and reuse the same old yeast cake while adding new Sacc each time (Wyeast Abbey II). I've varied the dried fruit, migrating from currants to pluots to cherries. With the last batch, I pulled off a couple of gallons to dry hop before bottling.

But all good things must come to an end, and I decided to make a clean start. I harvested some dregs just in case, but I'm going to start again from scratch. Beyond Roeselare, anybody have any recommendations for a good yeast/bug combo? Doesn't have to be an all-in-one thing. Right now, I've got sours going on ECY01 and Yeast Bay Mélange. Any suggestions?
 

mclaughlindw4

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Anybody know if MoreBeer is still making the kit? I never got one, but I'd be up for it if it meant getting some Vinnie barrel fragments.

I made this beer once with the more beer kit and if I were to make it again I wouldn't bother with the kit, especially if you can get the currants somewhere.

IMHO those barrel fragments were kind of garbage. They were like 90% raw oak and just a small piece of one side was actually the inside of the barrel. Just my opinion.
 

MFerBrew

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I made this beer once with the more beer kit and if I were to make it again I wouldn't bother with the kit, especially if you can get the currants somewhere.

IMHO those barrel fragments were kind of garbage. They were like 90% raw oak and just a small piece of one side was actually the inside of the barrel. Just my opinion.

Agree completely. We are planning on making this again, but ordering the ingredients individually. MoreBeer deserves compensation for putting this together and they got my initial order. But there's no reason to overpay for gimmick.
 

mitchard

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Build up some RR sour dregs, and age some oak cubes in there. Homemade Vinnie oak! Its generally pretty easy to obtain a bottle through trading if you aren't available to get them locally.
 

nduetime

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Agree completely. We are planning on making this again, but ordering the ingredients individually. MoreBeer deserves compensation for putting this together and they got my initial order. But there's no reason to overpay for gimmick.

Out of curiosity, does someone have the recipe for this? I've only seen a couple floating arround the internet but no comments on any of them in terms of how they conpare to the actual thing. I'm on my phone and can't search the website to see if it's been posted in the 65+ pages yet.
 

505-Brewer

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Out of curiosity, does someone have the recipe for this? I've only seen a couple floating arround the internet but no comments on any of them in terms of how they conpare to the actual thing. I'm on my phone and can't search the website to see if it's been posted in the 65+ pages yet.


Page 3 has recipe. Some of the info on stats is wrong (so I didnt include those) but recipe is correct I believe. Page 3 post 56 i think.

Here is the grain bill...

11 pounds rahr 2 row

8oz acidulated malt

4oz special b

4 oz carafa

Adjuncts..

1lb dark Belgian syrup

1lb corn sugar

Hops...

.5 oz styrian goldings. Bitter hop

1oz sterling flavor

1 oz sterling. Aroma



Whirlfloc..

Mash at 158-159




Extract build

8lbs ultralight me

.5 dry malt ext

1lb dark candi

1lb corn sugar

Steeping grains

8oz acidulated malt

4oz special b

4oz carafa

Hops

Same as above
 

The_Nid_Hog

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Getting ready to brew this again but, this time, I might go for all Brett primary fermentation. I'm about to rack a beer off ECY's Dirty Dozen, and i might put this right in on the yeast cake. Add bugs later.
 

andrewmaixner

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So I started my kit. Overshot the OG (1.092) because I added a little extra base malt, thinking I might have efficiency issues for high gravity BIAB -- not so, haha.
Mashed at 162 to hopefully get the high FG after primary -- again not so, my starter of Westmalle (WLP530) was still chugging away at 1.012 today (recipe targets 1.016), so I racked and added bugs.


My question is:
The description says that the brewer goes directly from primary to barrels, therefor it probably stays in barrels for 6-12 months.
The instructions, though, say not to add the included oak chunk until after souring is complete, "4-12 months" later.

Why not just add this small piece of oak right away? It is a chunk (about .5" x 1" x 2"), not chips/cubes, so I would think that over-oaking due to high surface area wouldn't be an issue?
 

mbbransc

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I think you answered your own question.

I brewed this up on 08/06/16. I fermented with 3787 and racked onto bugs and currants on 09/10. On 10/23 I added cab sav and an oak spiral. I boiled the spiral first to get most of the potent oak tannins out. Moved it under the stairs with the rest of the sours. Check on it next Fall.
 

andrewmaixner

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I think you answered your own question.

I brewed this up on 08/06/16. I fermented with 3787 and racked onto bugs and currants on 09/10. On 10/23 I added cab sav and an oak spiral. I boiled the spiral first to get most of the potent oak tannins out. Moved it under the stairs with the rest of the sours. Check on it next Fall.

Ya. It was mentioned elsewhere that part of the kit oak has never been in contact with liquid before, so might be more harsh. Maybe I'll soak it in some wine before I add it, then let it go long term. it couldn't possibly be as harsh as a full spiral.
 

Burndog

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Question: Since this beer was originally fermented in a cask, should we be doing some level of darkness on our fermentation containers? Closet, towel, anything?

I’m using a glass cartboy so have some concerns, just not sure if they are warranted.
 

RPh_Guy

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Light is bad for all beers. Not a bad idea to keep all fermenters dark. Makes no difference if the beer you're trying to clone was a barrel aged beer.
Does light harm beers without hops? Or with very low hop levels?
 
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How does light harm unhopped beer?

Light is a friend of lots of living things. Barley and hops for example. ;)

True. But tell that to my uncle, the Count.

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suprchunk

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How does light harm unhopped beer?

Light is a friend of lots of living things. Barley and hops for example. ;)

Really? You are comparing plants, that need light in order to grow, with a product that has yeast, phenols, esters, and myriad other compounds in it and wonder how they differ?

I see the winking smiley, but am unsure what context it is supposed to put your comment in. Has someone actually compared the two prior to you?
 

RPh_Guy

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You said "light is not a friend of most any living thing."
I pointed out that this statement is false because plants and algae are alive and need sunlight. The smiley was to help ease the blow in case you're easily offended. :)
I wasn't making any kind of comparison.

Do you have any sources of scientific data that indicate light is harmful for unhopped beer? If no, then what's your basis for that assertion?
I'm really interested.

Which compounds in beer are damaged by UV and/or visible light? What reactions do they undergo?
 
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suprchunk

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You said "light is not a friend of most any living thing."
I pointed out that this statement is false because plants and algae are alive and need sunlight. The smiley was to help ease the blow in case you're easily offended. :)
I wasn't making any kind of comparison.

Do you have any sources of scientific data that indicate light is harmful for unhopped beer? If no, then what's your basis for that assertion?
I'm really interested.

Which compounds in beer are damaged by UV and/or visible light? What reactions do they undergo?

Ah, I see. You think light is good for living things. Well keep the light on it indefinitely and see. Light is not a friend of most any living thing. Either is oxygen, hydrogen, ........

But if you think that you might think the life cycle of what is in your beer and a plant can be compared.

Or you can take what someone says in the context of the subject being discussed, surprisingly it's beer in this case, and take it out of context to do what exactly?

My assertion, I guess common sense. I noticed a few others had used this as well, but somehow you took umbrage with my use of it. I see delving out help with sprigs of anecdotal humor is met with antagonism from the newbs. Take care, and well wishes.
 

RPh_Guy

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My assertion, I guess common sense.
I was looking for science.
That's fine if you can't help. No reason to take it so personally that I doubt your assertion without seeing any scientific evidence or even an anecdote.

Probably the most research on the affect of light in unhopped fermented beverages is with wines ... However grapes contain a lot of photosensitive compounds that beer doesn't, like pigments.
Commercial white wine, rose wine, fruit wine, and cider are frequently packaged in clear bottles, so there must not be too much of an issue with light, despite retail lights being on all day and all night in some cases.

I've never heard of anyone getting a skunked sour beer in a carboy. .. or any beer for that matter. Must be pretty rare.

Brew on!
 

bracconiere

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You are comparing plants, that need light in order to grow, with a product that has yeast, phenols, esters, and myriad other compounds in it and wonder how they differ?

in rph-guy's defense, and in my confusion....don't plants contain esters, phenols, and myriad of other compounds? lol

edit: (as a sub-note, cocaine is an ester and it needs light...)
 

Burndog

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Help!

I brewed this per the recipe (5 gallons) noted on prior pages and added Brettanomyces. I actually added them twice as the LBS gave me the first vile which was past expiration.

It's been 10 months and while the taste is good, the sourness is not anywhere near where it should be as I did a side by side with Consecration.

Should I re-pitch more Brett? I've already close transferred half the batch to a 2.6 keg and carbonated. Really disappointed after investing so much time in this one.
 

Burndog

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Agreed! Grab a bottle of good sour beer and add the dregs. Did you use the Roselare (?) yeast blend for primary?

Yes, I did use Roselare as the primary. I just ordered up some more and will split it between the 2 gals in the small keg and the remaining cart boy qty.
 

jrgtr42

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I brewed this beer some time ago per the kit, and was happy with it.
I brewed it again a couple years ago, making some changes. Instead of the currents, I used Montmorency cherries. Instead of sticking with the staves (I tossed those in as well) I had oak cubes soaking in rum for a few months, then tossed those in. I liked this batch better than the first.
But you need to use a souring blend, Pedio, Lacto, etc, along with the Brett, to get the right character.
I used the Imperial Sour Batch Kids blend, supplemented by dregs from a few different beers I had in the meantime. If I had a sour beer while that was in secondary, I'd save a bit plus the dregs any add them in to the secondary.
 
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I brewed up a mini-mash version last Saturday based on Morebeer's kit sheet. I fermented it warm with 3522 Ardennes and now that it's just about finished up I'm racking it to secondary onto 2lbs of Sun-Maid zante currents and pitching 3278 Lambic blend. I don't have a RR barrel chunk so I'll be adding cabernet-soaked oak chips at the ~3 month mark.
 
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