confused about temperature sensors

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SweetStout

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There seem to be a number of different types of temperature sensors and I'm wondering if someone can help me understand the differences, and in particular what would be compatible with an Auber controller.

I'm designing something around the Auber DSPR110.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560

From the instructions:
This controller can read either a type K thermocouple or a RTD temperature sensor. The RTD sensor is highly recommended for its accuracy. Here is the link for RTD temperature sensors (Pt100 type) that can be used with this controller.

So the obvious choice for a temperature sensor would be one of the Auber PT100 type sensors. However, they only come in NPT threaded models. I was hoping to mount the sensor through the wall of the kettle. There is a weld bung available
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_35&products_id=178
and that might be my best option. Since I don't weld, I was also wondering what else might be available (I haven't ruled out the PT100, just wondering what other options there are).

Here is where I get confused by the terminology.

ElectricBrewingSupply has what they call a "BCS Temperature Probe"
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/deluxe-bcs-temperature-probe/

Brewers Hardware also has BCS probes.

BrewBoss sells something they just call a "Digital Temperature Probe"
http://www.brew-boss.com/product-p/tempprobe.htm

Those all appear to be reasonable options for a kettle probe mount that doesn't need to be welded. But it isn't clear to me if these probes are compatible with the DSPR110.

Can anyone help clarify the types of probes and what would be compatible with the Auber controllers?

Thanks in advance,

- SS
 
Use the Auber RTD probes with the Auber controller and your life will be good.

BCS is a different type of controller and the probe uses different technology (NTC thermistor, not RTD) so it is not compatible. I don't know Brew Boss's probe design but their controller is built on Arduino, so either thermistor or one-wire is probable.
 
First off, the truth of temperature probes is a "K" would work fine, your not doing an activity that requires the "accuracy" as they say of more. You don't need the capability of measuring 850F, ever... And Im betting you can not get your equipment to hold temps withing .oo5 degree anyway.

Millions of K types are in use today doing every job imaginable, and doing it just fine.

The more important thing is correct mounting so the sensor can do its job efficiently. So your better of (far better off) using a K mounted right than any other type that's not ideal.

Remember brewing isn't like growing a bacteria to cure a disease, type of activity. :) So find one, without worrying about type that works with your PID (the BCS will not), that mounts the best.
 
A RTD uses a known resistance that will change when the temp changes. While a t/c uses two different wired metals joined together to measure a voltage drop. To calculate your temp.

RTD's are generally more accurate but are more expensive. However, for homebrew both would do fine.
 
If you want proven stuff with lots of support and knowledge here, get the Auber components. If you want to be adventurous and maybe spend a few bucks less if you get lucky because you sources everything correctly, then you can go that route.

I would personally go for RTD over a thermocouple any day of the week. I have a BCS and have been happy with the probes I made, using high tolerance thermistors. I used the Auber bodies and cables, and they give you lots of mounting options. But if BCS used RTD, I would have used them right off the shelf.
 
Thanks again everyone for the input.

Decided to go with the Auber 1/4 NPT - I'll work up a weldless option first, but get that bung in case I decide to have someone tack it on for me down the road.
 
Thanks again for the feedback. I did end up going with the Auber. Although I wish they had a shorter probe, I think I was able to make it work fine through the kettle wall.

Outside and inside views:

0318161744.jpg


0318161744a.jpg
 
Yep, that's how we do it. I would have suggested the sensor be mounted a little further from the element to get away from convective currents prior to the boil, but that's really no biggie. Once boiling, 212 is 212 (or whatever your boil temp is).
 
The hole was already in this kettle, and if it wasn't I probably would have just put the temperature sensor on the outlet.

Most of the time I will be using a cooler as a mash tun, but if I did want to do a recirculating mash in the kettle I'm thinking that long sensor is going to be in the way.
 
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