Confused about PH Stabalizer

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ShortSnoutBrewing

Kwanesum Chinook Illahee
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
3,189
Reaction score
25
Location
Portland, OR
Did a quick search and I'm still a little confused. I'm doing my second AG this weekend. FIrst one didn't come out to well for two reasons. First, my temps were too high, but second I've got very hard water with a high PH. I picked up some stabalizer but where I'm lost is where and when to actually add it. Is it added to the mash/sparge water as I'm heating it? To an empty MT? On top of the grain bed?

Thanks all.
 
Same here. I also add it based on the volume going into the kettle pre-boil. So if my pre-boil volume is 13.5 gallons, I'll add 2 tablespoons and 2 teaspoons into the mash water as it's heating. I saw a good 5% point jump in efficiency and haven't had any other effects from using it. Its best for light colored beers though it will work with dark colored beers as well.
 
Kilted Brewer said:
Did a quick search and I'm still a little confused. I'm doing my second AG this weekend. FIrst one didn't come out to well for two reasons. First, my temps were too high, but second I've got very hard water with a high PH. I picked up some stabalizer but where I'm lost is where and when to actually add it. Is it added to the mash/sparge water as I'm heating it? To an empty MT? On top of the grain bed?

Thanks all.
I believe it should be added to both the mash and sparge water. If your water is very hard it might be worth while diluting it some with bottled water or RO water. If you have to use an excessive amount of buffer you will get off flavors from the large amount of salt in the brew.

Craig
 
There is usually no need to use it for dark colored beers. I have moderately hard water (its actual pH is irrelevant) and as long as there is more then about 5% specialty grains the grain bill itself pulls the pH down into an appropriate range. I also use less then recommended as I have found that about 1/4 the amount is sufficient to adjust my pH.

GT
 
CBBaron said:
I believe it should be added to both the mash and sparge water. If your water is very hard it might be worth while diluting it some with bottled water or RO water. If you have to use an excessive amount of buffer you will get off flavors from the large amount of salt in the brew.

Craig

Although the directions are not very well written, you really only should add it to the mash. pH of the sparge water isn't very important. The grains and buffer will keep the pH from rising during the sparge.
 
I like to mix it into the top 1/3 or so of my bucket of crushed grain. That way, it gets mixed in at the same time as the rest of the mash.
 
I mix it in with my strike water and sparge water, unless I'm brewing something pretty dark. Then, I just mix it in with my sparge water, as that's when dilution can raise your pH above where you want it.


TL
 
Add it while you're doughing in your mash - you don't need to add it to your sparge water.

- GL63
 
I'm brewing right now and forgot to add it to the mash water. Just threw it in 5 min after dough in. I'm sure it will work fine.
 
Thanks all. I'm one that adds a little water, then some grains, then more water etc. So I just divided my Stabalizer by how many times I alternated then added a little at each grain addition. We'll see how she comes out.
 
Back
Top