Concerns with Homebrew Stores Equipment

[masa_ash]

Hello,

I am an absolute beginner so bare with me experts.

I recently bought a kit from my local homebrew store. My concern is, my primary fermenter did not have a hole in the lid for an airlock, which in most cases I had read online, it should.

The lid was just a sit loosely on the bucket lid. So you could not form a tight seal with it.

So, upon reading the instructions the homebrew store provided, it said to allow to ferment for 2-3 days in the loose top bucket, then transfer to the carboy with the airlock for final fermentation.

So I did this, and everything seems fine (carboy is bubbling away).. but I am just concerned that this method is something I should not continue with?? It just seems off, as everything I had read, does not conform to this method..


Thanks for any advice.
Ashley

fyi - I am using a kit, Coopers English Bitter. to keep things simple for my first batch. then slowly I want to move to more advanced methods.

 

[IrregularPulse]

This method is just fine. having a seal is not required. The loose lid provides the same escape of CO2 that the air lock does. You just don't have the visual indicator in with an air lock, which, IMO, causes more noob questions than it's worth. Bacteria are not ninjas after your wort, they will crawl up your fermentor. If they cannot drift through the air and land by gravity into the bucket (your lid is sitting on top) you are fine.

 

[kapbrew13]

Sounds odd. My fermentation bucket fits tight and I stick an airlock in it. You could probably get a new lid for it.
Co2 will release gases with the loose lid but there might be issues later when co2 gas production drops.

 

[kapbrew13]

Btw welcome!

 

[IrregularPulse]

Sounds odd. My fermentation bucket fits tight and I stick an airlock in it. You could probably get a new lid for it.
Co2 will release gases with the loose lid but there might be issues later when co2 gas production drops.

What kind of issues? There will still be a blanket of CO2 on top the beer for a very long time.

 

[masa_ash]

Thanks for clarifying, I knew it would be safe from bacteria, that is why I proceeded.

I think I am more concerned about disturbing the liquid out of the primary fermentation and moving to a secondary so early in the fermentation stages..

 

[terrapinj]

main issue i can think of is potential mess if you have an overactive fermentation since there isn't a good way to fashion a blow off tube

 

[kapbrew13]

What kind of issues? There will still be a blanket of CO2 on top the beer for a very long time.

Might. Left it open for others that may have had issues.

 

[Pappers_]

So, upon reading the instructions the homebrew store provided, it said to allow to ferment for 2-3 days in the loose top bucket, then transfer to the carboy with the airlock for final fermentation.

You are right to be concerned that these instructions aren't what many homebrewers would suggest. Racking your beer after 2-3 days isn't the best practice, in my opinion. I typically let my beer stay in its primary fermentation vessel (a carboy in my case, but a bucket is fine, too) for 2 - 4 weeks.

 

[TheMan]

Thanks for clarifying, I knew it would be safe from bacteria, that is why I proceeded.

I think I am more concerned about disturbing the liquid out of the primary fermentation and moving to a secondary so early in the fermentation stages..

This is what I was thinking. The secondary shouldn't have any real fermentation going on, maybe finish a couple points at most. At 2-3 days you may have just begun fermenting.

It sounds like your brew knowledge is above that of the instructions you recieved, well done.

Your beer should turn out just fine. I think most others here would recommend letting it sit in primary for a few days more.

Edit: To build on pappers, you'll find many methods of fermentation. If you intend on using a secondary, typically 5-7 days is what I would expect for the primary portion before transferring. (I just do a 3-4 week primary and then bottle or keg, you will have to decide what method you prefer)

 

[hudsonj6]

main issue i can think of is potential mess if you have an overactive fermentation since there isn't a good way to fashion a blow off tube

All depends on the size of the bucket. I have the 10 gallon bucket and mostly do 6 gallon batches and even my wildest fermentation (and it was pretty crazy), didn't threaten to blow the lid off.

 

[masa_ash]

It sounds like your brew knowledge is above that of the instructions you recieved, well done.

I've done a lot or research prior. I should have checked the equipment more thoroughly before purchasing equipment that was alien to me.

I think i would also like to keep my beer in the primary fermenter for the full fermentation duration. So, as a consensus, I think I will look for a new lid, or bucket, for my next batch...

 

[Homercidal]

Nothing wrong with leaving the lid loose if you want to. under normal circumstances this should be ok. I'd prefer a tight lid and airlock just in case someone or something bumps it off and accidentally gets something in there. But it would probably be just fine.

You know you can buy an airlock and grommet for next to nothing and drill a hole and put it in there.

Also, I'd probably leave the beer in there for about 3-4 weeks and then bottle. Not everyone does it this way. Some would probably leave it in there for a week or two then transfer to secondary. That's an option too. Either way works, I just prefer not messing with it and don't personally believe that doing a secondary gives a noticeable improvement in my beer. It's just more work.

Others claim that it can make your beer clearer and better tasting. Lots of people have quit doing a secondary and lots still say it's better. Do what you want, but only fermenting for 3 days before moving is not a good idea.

And I highly recommend checking your fermentation temps if you are not already. Most ale yeast will work bestat an ambient temperature of 60-62 ish. They LOVE warmer temps, but they also make more off-flavors at those higher temps too.

 

[hudsonj6]

I think I will look for a new lid, or bucket, for my next batch...

Check out the link I posted above. If it's a simialar bucket then there's no real need to get a new bucket or lid. I've used mine for every batch with no issues. That being said, if you find the hobby as addicting as many of us do, you might be buying a new bucket anyways to have multiple batches going at the same time

 

[masa_ash]

You know you can buy an airlock and grommet for next to nothing and drill a hole and put it in there.

I still have to purchase a lid, as it does not form a seal. It is just meant to keep airborne particles out.

 

[masa_ash]

Check out the link I posted above. If it's a simialar bucket then there's no real need to get a new bucket or lid. I've used mine for every batch with no issues. That being said, if you find the hobby as addicting as many of us do, you might be buying a new bucket anyways to have multiple batches going at the same time

I have a 6 gallon bucket. It looks the same in every way to other fermentation buckets, except the lid is probably more like yours.

 

[paraordnance]

If you kit has one of these 10 gal plastic primary fermentor I would seriously consider it replacing with something also despite what others say in this thread

I used this type of fermentor once for my first batch and it got infected. Fruit flies could easily got inside (I seen them hovering around) and thats what spoiled my brew I think. It may be fine to use it for couple days but I would say ferment in your carboy instead and forget about secondary altogether

 

[masa_ash]

It may be fine to use it for couple days but I would say ferment in your carboy instead and forget about secondary altogether

I was thinking this as well and just buying a funnel. Hydrometer readings and initial wort stirring could be a pain though, but I guess I could use the bucket..

 

[Clann]

http://www.gamma2.net/new/GSL.html

Buckets are nice and easy

 

[Homercidal]

My buckets have always been decent about sealing, at least enough to keep from getting knocked off or letting anything in. Some required a fair amount of pushing to snap on tight.

 

[biggerthanyou83]

buy a lid with a hole.... i wouldnt gamble with the lose lid idea. And one thing that i started doing since i had a lid blow of was to use a blow off valve the first few days its in the primary.

 

[kapbrew13]

I've done a lot or research prior. I should have checked the equipment more thoroughly before purchasing equipment that was alien to me.

I think i would also like to keep my beer in the primary fermenter for the full fermentation duration. So, as a consensus, I think I will look for a new lid, or bucket, for my next batch...

Worst case if buy a new bucket and lid and.this one works. You'll have to keep both full.

 

[masa_ash]

You'll have to keep both full.

*nods*

Thanks everyone! I will have to hunt down a better lid, and as suggested, maybe a whole new bucket so I can get two batches on the go!

Cheers,
Ash

 

[Revvy]

It doesn't sound like there's anything wrong with the equipment you were sold, just that you don't know all the variations of kits out there. There are several fermenters out there including the ones pictures that don't have airlock bungholes added, and don't need airlocks on them.

And are perfectly fine.

Some you do need to drill, while others don't and the lids don't sit all that tight on them.

There's nothing wrong with that at all, And the mr beer fermenter doesn't even have an airlock, and SOMEHOW beer manages to still ferment in those things.

An airlock is nothing more than a valve to keep the lid from blowing off and painting your ceiling with your beer.

The bad stuff are not ninja acrobats, they really can't get into stuff. The co2 coming out will prevent anything getting in.

The airlock is one of the most superfluous things in brewing, that new brewers seem to put the most stock in.

A lot of folks don't use them at all. In fact many folks with arthitis and other issues don't snap the lid down on their buckets anyway, and may folks just put tinfoil, plastic wrap, metal cookie sheets or even plexiglass sheets on top of the bucket instead. It's really not crucial to be tight.

Some folks use blowoff tubes exclusively...

The newest thing, that is replacing airlocks on carboys is this.

These food grade silicone stoppers feature several vent holes lightly sealed with a silicone top flap. Gases can escape, but cannot get in. Just put the stopper on your carboy, and forget it. No worries about evaporation or water getting into your fermenter. This #10 size is pictured at right above, and fits all Better Bottles, and other containers with a 1.75" opening.

http://www.fyurl.com/rr.php?c=2&sit....com/10-VENTED-SILICONE-STOPPER-P2667C94.aspx

Millions of gallons of beer have been brewed in those things with no problems whatsoever, if there were issuse then they would no longer be in the marketplace.[/i]

You're being an overly worried new brewer over stressing the role of an airtight lid and airlocks when they're not needed at all.

You don't need to replace your lid, you don't need to replace your bucket, and more importantly you don't need to think you were sold crap or anything like that, you were just sold one of the many perfectly fine fermenters out there.

Just because it's not like all those others, doesn't mean it's bad, or junk, or great beer can't be brewed in them.

A fermenter is a fermenter is a fermenter...it's just a tool, it's what goes into it that's important. People ferment in all manner of things, homer buckets, water jugs, jerry cans, and they all work.

Relax.

 

[masa_ash]

Thanks for the info Revvy. I was just more concerned about the 2-3 day secondary fermentation transfer rather then everything else however.

It was a good read none the less.

As with everything, noobs are going to be nervous, and I am glad there are forums like these out there for people to utilize.

 

[Skarekrough]

All things being equal I wouldn't trust the "loose lid" method.

For my mind there are too many things that could go wrong.

A sealed lid and an airlock provide enough assurance for my mind that outside contaminants will remain outside. With that system a contaminant would need to navigate itself through the small holes on top of the airlock, through the water which is consistently being in the opposite direction and through the bottom of the airlock and into the wort.

With a blow-off tube the contaminant would need to travel through the water in the bucket, up the length of the tube, take a nearly 180 degree turn and then into the wort.

I spend too much time, money and effort in my brewing to trust a "loose lid" to keep contaminants out.