Collar on a mini-fridge?

[Professor Frink]

Currently I have a kegerator from a minifridge that holds once corny, but doesn't quite fit a second one. I was thinking of upgrading with a chest freezer, but doing the math it would probably cost about $300

I was thinking, what if I put a collar on the fridge to make it about 4 inches or so deeper to fit the second corny? Then all I would need is another faucet, shank, lines and splitter. Has anyone ever done this or seen anyone do this? I smell a DIY project this weekend...

 

[Uncle Argyle]

What model fridge do you have? Cu Ft?

You might be able to remove the plastic door panel...this will give you more room without having to add a collar.

 

[Professor Frink]

The fridge is so old I don't even know the model, it was my parents' old bar fridge and probably 20 years old. I've already cut out the shelves that were on the door, so I don't think removing the door panel would yield enough space for another corny. I would guess it's 4-5 cubic feet, a little smaller than a Sanyo 4912, with a hump in the back for the compressor.

 

[MrFebtober]

So, to make sure i understand this right, the fridge is too narrow to fit too cornies side-by-side, but if you stagger them, the front one hangs out about 4" past the door. right?

I don't see any issue with a collar, except mounting it may require drilling and screwing into the side walls of the fridge (unless you get very clever) and that's typically where they put the radiator lines, so you'll just have to be careful to avoid those.

Also, consider how much work you want to put into a 20+ year-old minifridge, because it will probably be a lot.

 

[Professor Frink]

That's pretty much it. It's probably even less than 4" past the door when staggered, but I'll call it that just to be safe. I think with this old fridge, there aren't any radiator lines in the sides. It's one of the types that has the motor under the hump in the back, and that goes right to the freezer shelf, which is what gives off the coldness (I unhooked the shelf when I converted it and put it in the back behind the CO2, so that's where it cools from now). I don't mind doing the work if it'll save me some $$, I figured it might be worth a try.

But just in case, is there any way to check for the radiator lines on the side? I know on top you can check by spraying cold water on it.

Also, if that is an issue, what if I was to build the collar into the door where I know there are no lines, so that the only place it'll be connected is where the door swings from.

 

[bradsul]

You could make a wood platform for the fridge to sit on with the collar attached to it, then just use the weight of the fridge against the collar to hold it in place.

 

[rdwj]

I assume you have already moved the C02 outside, right?

 

[MrFebtober]

Well, there have to be condenser lines (I misspoke calling them "radiator lines" just because they radiate heat) somewhere, and if they aren't sticking out the back, then they are under the sheet metal. I've read of people smearing on a mixture of baking soda and spirits (vodka, isopropyl alcohol, etc.) and the heat from the lines evaporates the spirits fastest where the lines are, leaving white, dry, baking soda where the lines go. I've never tried it.

A simpler option would be to just stuff the kegs in there, with the front-most one on whichever side the door opens from (if hinged on the left side, front keg goes on right side) and construct a styrofoam wedge to fill the door gap. It's not as pleasing to the eye, but could be plenty functional if you RTV the wedge to the door and mount a magnetic catch the the wedge to hold the door shut. you could even make it real nice by backing the foam with 1/4 wood paneling.

 

[Professor Frink]

The CO2 is inside because it fits on the hump in the back, so it doesn't affect the kegs. The wedge seems like a good idea, except it's a door tap and not a tower tap, so the tap would face away from the front.

Bradsul, I'm not really sure what you mean?

 

[bradsul]

Instead of trying to attach the collar to the fridge, use a piece of plywood the size of the fridge footprint as a base. You attach the collar to the base and then sit the fridge on the base as well. But pushed up against the collar. The fridge door then attaches to the outside of the collar.

Basically the same as the freezer conversions except the fridge sits against the collar (with weatherstrip or some other kind of sealant) and isn't actually attached to it. No holes in the fridge required.

I can't draw worth a damn or I'd make you a picture but I won't embarrass myself like that.

 

[ColoradoXJ13]

I am in the same position you are in with the fridge that only fits one keg (bent the freezer shelf so it runs down the back)...I have just resigned to only having one cold keg at a time until I find a good deal on a chest freezer or sanyo 4912 on craigslist.

 

[Professor Frink]

That sounds like a good idea bradsul, maybe I'll try that. If it works, there'll be some DIY pics up.