CO2 Leak

[DrumForHire]

I clearly have a CO2 leak somewhere, as the last two times my canister has run out before finishing two kegs. After the first time, I redid all the Teflon tape on the regulator, manifold, and lines and did the "soapy water" test and had no bubbles.

I noticed while I was picking up more Teflon tape that Home Depot had some listed as "gas". Should I be using this stuff instead of the normal Teflon tape I've been using for liquids? This still doesn't explain why I don't see a leak in my setup.

I also realized that it's probably been a while since the keg posts have had their Teflon tape replaced. (I use a pump-driven cleaner that hooks up to the posts, so no need to remove them for cleaning). Could this be the issue? I've never seen anyone suggest doing a leak test on the posts, so I'm not sure how it's done. I'll probably replace the tape anyway just because it's easy and cheap.

 

[day_trippr]

Gas tape is for burnable gas applications - propane, natural gas, etc.

From your description it seems you are applying tape to places that should not be taped.
Keg posts need no tape, period, and in fact tape can screw them up.
Flare fittings should never be taped, either.
It would not be surprising to find all that tape is actually causing leaks...

Cheers!

 

[cannman]

Make sure that the cylinder valve (before the regulator) is opened all the way. A partially open cylinder will leak.

 

[fatherdan]

I found my leaks were at the quick connects to the keg itself. actually submerge them in a glass of water/starsan. Sanitize and check for leaks at the same time.

 

[Morrey]

The first thing I do is test and eliminate keg(s) as a source of the leak. I lube my o rings carefully, seat the lid and apply 15-20 psi gas to the keg, then remove disconnect. Fill your bathtub with water and submerge and hold keg under. You'll be able to tell (soapy water is not THAT good of a test) if there is a leak by a tiny stream of bubbles coming from the tank at the lid or valve posts. Be mindful of leaks that may develop along the welded seams, and while more rare, this may be the end of the life of that particular keg.

Eliminate your keg first before you continue on. I bought a batch of used ball locks from Pespi. I replaced o rings on all and did the water test. One keg had a valve poppet leak which was easily solved.

If your keg is clear, work backwards to your gas disconnect as fatherdan suggests. Just go backwards and you'll find it sooner or later. I have submerged my CO2 tank with regulator with gas applied to the keg in the bathtub too, keeping the gauges out of the water as much as possible. I had one leaking at the o ring when the ball lock connect was attached. New o ring with lube fixed it.

 

[DrumForHire]

From your description it seems you are applying tape to places that should not be taped.
Keg posts need no tape, period, and in fact tape can screw them up.
Flare fittings should never be taped, either.
It would not be surprising to find all that tape is actually causing leaks...

Cheers!

Interesting. This could make sense; I pretty much err on the side of taping. What fittings should be taped?

 

[day_trippr]

Pipe threads, only. For instance, all of the threaded connections directly to the regulator body would be taped, so the stem of the tank coupler, the gauges, and the shut-off valve (presuming so equipped, otherwise the barb).

If you have a manifold, all of the threaded fittings that directly screw into it would be taped.

And that's pretty much the end of it.

The coupler at the cylinder valve should never be taped. That's a flare fitting, and relies on either a gasket or an O-ring on the face of the coupler stem.

Any and all flare fittings (eg: swivel nut/barb combos) should never be taped. There's no point: there's a big hole right in the middle of the swivel nut that no thread tape is going to seal.

Swivel/barbs rely on a gasket: if threaded to a shut-off valve, it's a separable nylon flare gasket; if threaded onto a Quick Disconnect, the QD typically has an integrated gasket at the tip of the male thread.

There's nothing on a keg - Sanke or Cornelius - that should be taped.
The connection to a faucet shank is another flare fitting that uses a gasket, and a faucet relies on its own O-ring...

Cheers!

 

[Natdavis777]

Make sure you arent missing your teflon gasket from the regulator to the tank... That will drain a tank quickly.

 

[jpakstis]

Deleted: duplicate!

 

[jpakstis]

Make sure you arent missing your teflon gasket from the regulator to the tank... That will drain a tank quickly.

This happened to me. My first two fills were empty with a week. When I went back to fill it up again the guy gave me a couple of those washers and I've been on the same tank since November. He told me anytime you have metal touching metal put a washer there. That includes those nylon washers where the screw-in connectors attach to the distributor of you have those.

 

[DrumForHire]

Make sure you arent missing your teflon gasket from the regulator to the tank... That will drain a tank quickly.

I think you've hit the nail on the head. Got my equipment secondhand from a friend and I've never even knew there's supposed to be a washer! Stopped by the shop today and picked one up.

Here's what my regulator looks like now, so I don't think I have anything taped that I shouldn't. The parts I'm not sure of are all at the top: the stem that comes from the tank, the gauge, and the vent. The stem I was having a hard time loosening at all, and the other two spots I was worried might have small parts that I'll lose. Thoughts?

View attachment 1462052541602.jpg

 

[DrumForHire]

Deleted: Multi-post