CO2 leak

[brewit2it]

I have a leak where the red CO2 tubing connects to the QD. The clamp is the one that came pre-assembled from Kegconnections and it doesn't have a screw, it looks like it is clamped on with a special crimping tool. So what do I do next?

It seems pretty obvious, take off the clamp that is on and put on a new one but just wondering if anyone knows exactly what I am looking for from home depot as far as size and type. Also any tips on removing the clamp that is one there? I was thinking to try to pry it open with a screwdriver.

Thanks

 

[Mischief_Brewing]

I just took a pair of pliers and squeezed the existing until I couldn't spin the red hose on the barb any longer. No more leak for me.

 

[hamiltont]

Cut the clamp with a pair of wire cutters/dikes and cut the tubing above the mess you just made . Use a ~1/2" worm gear hose clamp to reassemble it. Cheers!!!

 

[Golddiggie]

Hose clamps are typically made to cover a range of tubing sizes. Simply measure the OD of the tubing at the connector and get a package of clamps that has that size in it's range. You're probably looking for the smallest ones they have, or the next size up...

Unless you use lock-tite on the clamp threads, you will want to check them from time to time. Just to make sure they haven't started to come lose. I needed to do that for my IC when I used it last week.

 

[724b]

If it's an Oettiker style clamp you can use a standard nipper tool, like this-
http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/ear-clamping-tool.html

 

[abracadabra]

It probably is an Oettiker as 724b says and his suggestion of a nipper tool is right on the money, and as Mischief suggests trying to squeeze it tighter should be your first action before you cut it off and go to with a worm drive type c clamp.

 

[brewit2it]

Thanks for the replies. I'll try squeezing it tighter but Im guessing I'll end up with the cut it off and attach a 1/2 inch worm gear clamp to reassemble.

 

[724b]

I prefer Oettiker clamps where something needs to be clamped all of the time. These don't eat into the tubing. They also don't have the sharp end (the better to scratch you with my dear) that worm clamps have.

If it needs to go on and off periodically, for sure... worm clamps.

 

[Cacaman]

I also have a CO2 leak, and I already tried doing this, plus changing the ball lock disconnect. It seemed to have worked, since the pressure stayed stable for 2 days. After I removed the keg and CO2 from the keezer and put it in room temp, the CO2 tank completely drained overnight (about 400psi). I don't know what else to do :'(

 

[724b]

Was CO2 hooked up to the keg when it was outside of the keezer? If so, maybe the gas orings are the issue.

You can get those at McMaster http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2010/12/bulk-keg-o-rings-at-mcmaster.html

Have you sprayed the whole thing down with star san to check for bubbles?

 

[starsailor]

I've had the same problem, a leaking Oettiker clamp. They can be crimped on or crimped tigher with a pair of dikes or a pair of nippers like others have said. Personally, I prefer a pair of nippers. Their a handy tool to have to cut wire and pull nails, so they're worth having anyway and cost about $5-$8 at a HW store.

I prefer the Oettiker style clamp because they clamp 100% of the way around the tube and once tight enough never come loose. Screw clamps can loosen and only clamp about 80% around the tube as they always have a flat spot under the screw.

They are pretty permanent though. You can cut them off by, in increasing level of difficulty, a cutting wheel on a Dremel or angle grinder, carefully pry them apart with a small flat screwdriver, or carefully cut them with a hacksaw.

New Oettiker clamps are hard to find unless you order from a kegging supply place. However, a nearly identical clamp that also clamps 100% can be found at HD and Lowes. They're "Shark Bite" clamps made for PEX tubing and can be found in the plumbing section. They clamp on the same way with a nipper or dikes. I have them on all my gas and beer lines. Resist buying the special crimping tool for them unless you're a plumber and will use it every day because it's a special tool that really has no other use.

For your leaking clamp I'd try to crimp it tigher first and then cut if off and replace it with a "Shark Bite" clamp only if recrimping doesn't do the trick.

 

[Cacaman]

Was CO2 hooked up to the keg when it was outside of the keezer? If so, maybe the gas orings are the issue.

You can get those at McMaster http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2010/12/bulk-keg-o-rings-at-mcmaster.html

Have you sprayed the whole thing down with star san to check for bubbles?

Yes the keg has been connected to the CO2 the whole time. My next step then is to spray it down with starsand and replace the clamps with oetiker clamps. Any other suggestions?

 

[724b]

The only leak (in my experience) you can't test by spraying is the gas oring. You can get to it so you can see the bubbles. Orings are so cheap, I just replace them if there is any doubt.

I like to hook everything up and then turn of the tank. If the pressure on the regulator drops quickly, you've got a fast leak. If it holds steady there isn't a major or intermediate leak.

If it's a fast leak, you should be able to hear it.

Definitely spray and check for bubbles.

 

[hamiltont]

Keg Lube on all the rubber parts (O-rings, poppets and relief valve) is pretty effective unless there is structural damage to the component. Cheers!!!

 

[Cacaman]

Took it to the gas shop, filled it up, sprayed with soap water, noticed the regulator attachment had bubbles, so we tightened it. Also, we noticed the regulator nipple attachment had bubbles, so as soon as I got home, added more Teflon tape, and mega tightened it. Issue resolved. Nothing wrong with keg. Thanks all for your tips!

-Alex