Cloudy Beer

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distantdrumming

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Due to space constraints, I have to use my converted upright freezer for my fermentation and bottle conditioning. The problem is, my beer doesn't clear. So I've got maybe one in bottles, close to ready. Another in bottles probably 2-3 weeks out. One in carboy that just won't clear...takes forever to clear...And another I plan on making next week. Got space for 2 carboys and 2 batches bottled. i want to brew the following week too. But the one in carboy just won't clear for bottling. I got impatient with the last and bottled after maybe 3-4 weeks...it's gonna have a huge pile of sediment by the time it's ready, was cloudy with no signs of clearing. After 4 weeks! This one I got going is the same. I want to keep things moving, but this cloudy beer issue is keeping me from bottling for at least a month. Then you got the bottle conditioning which is another month. I can't cold crash, with everything else I've got going on in there. I'm gonna try Irish moss next brew, but I really thought when I started this I could drink my beer within a month...maybe a month and a half. This cloudy beer is bringing me down on the whole thing. Does anyone have an idea?
 
Cold crashing would help, but you said that isn't an option. Other than waiting, which might or might not help anyway, I can't think of many things you can do. Other than filter it, but that can filter out hop aroma too.
Out of curiosity, what is your method for chilling after boil, and transferring to your carboy?
 
fix your process issues and the clarity issue will solve itself. cold crashing is not necessary.
 
Wort chiller takes maybe 10 minutes to get to around 70 degrees. Transferring, I use a Venturi thing. Good aeration until the last gallon or so, then slows down.
 
irish moss is helpful.

whats your set up? extract? biab? all-grain?

lots of things cause haze
 
You have to use kettle fining at minimum, whirfloc is best, very cheap insurance. I have the same space problem and just take my fermenter(s) out of the chest freezer after about a week if needed and crash the beer with gelatin. After the first week the change in temp wont hurt because the flavors have been made and raising it helps the yeast finish.
 
Many years ago I used gelatine as a fining and it created as many issues as it solved, such as slithers of congealed gunk in the beer!

By finding consistency with mash temperature, sparging methods, fermentation temperature and time (4-6 weeks) and watching how transfers occurred, my beer cleared up a treat. Now I only use Irish Moss and only see haze when I want it, such as with wheats!
 
lots of things cause haze

:rockin:

jimi-hendrix-purple-haze.jpg
 
Since you didn't post your recipe or what type of brewing you do (wort in a bag, extract, all grain) or the process you used, all we can do is guess. Try giving us the full story and we'll have a better chance of fixing the problem.
 
Just out of curiosity, post your recipe on the last batch that is not clearing.

But if you are confident on your pH, mash temp, solid boil, quick chilling, then I would again wonder how much hotbreak is getting into your fermenter. There are several things that lead to hazy beer that won't clear, but that is the first one I'd look at. Solid whirlpool after boil is helpful.
 
7.5 lbs marris otter
0.8 lb English crystal 40L
0.8 lb Munich
0.8 lb special roast
0.1 lb Pale chocolate

1 oz cascade (20 min)
1 oz chinook (10 min)
1 oz cascade (flameout)

Safale us-05 yeast

Water:
0.5 tab Campden
1.25 tsp calcium chloride
1.25 tsp gypsum

Can you explain 'hot break' for me?
 
Hot break is the small to large "chunks" or blobs you see in your boil. During a vigorous boil, some proteins, polyphenols and carbohydrates clump together. Some of the hot side break getting into the fermenter is ok, if not beneficial, but too much can cause problems in the end product.

do you whirlpool at all before chilling? How cloudy is the wort in the fermenter before you pitch the yeast?
 
Hot break in the fermenter is not a problem, they did an xBmt on Brulosophy and the batch that had more trub (hot and cold break) actually cleared better than the batch with no trub. Based on your recipe the ph should be ok, you really do need to add whirfloc or Irish moss at the end of the boil. If your beer clears when warm you have chill haze.
 
I will try Irish moss with my next batch. I'm wondering if the cloudiness may be a result of transfer from kettle to carboy. My kettle has a ball valve, when I get to around the last two gallons it stops draining and I have to tilt the kettle. Could that be part of my problem? If so, what can I do about it?

I do whirlpool with spoon, but think tipping the kettle might eliminate its effect. And I honestly can't remember how clear the wort was before adding yeast. I'll make note if it with my next batch.
 
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