Cloning HopHands by Tired Hands Brewing Company
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Shake the keg. I started dry hopping in the keg and discovered the last of the 4 kegs from a batch would not carbonate. This happened twice, so I thought about it a while and had a eureka moment. The hop oils, after time, created a surface barrier to carbonating the beer. Give your keg a shake at your serving pressure and I guarantee you will hear your regulator putting in more gas. Do this over 3 days, shaking occasionally and you will be carbed perfectly.
Mine looks similar in color. I put mine on 30 psi for 36 hours then serve. Carbonation was fine.
I get about a half inch to inch of head on the pour but then subsides to what your glass looks like. May be fine.
I haven't done a hopstand/whirlpool before so, I just wanted to see if there's a general process for this people are using on this recipe? Should I start the whirlpool at flameout, when I get to 180, or another temp? If I'm not starting at flameout, I assume I should run my cooler until I hit the whirlpool temp, turn off the cooler, add hops and let it go till time is up and then resume cooling? How long of a whirlpool should I do?
Another technique question. Am I OK doing a single mash if I'm targeting 18% oats on the first? Or is everyone doing a protein rest around 120? I'm doing BIAB if it matters. Thanks!
Another technique question. Am I OK doing a single mash if I'm targeting 18% oats on the first? Or is everyone doing a protein rest around 120? I'm doing BIAB if it matters. Thanks!
I did 180 whirlpool/hop stand for 30 minutes. Chilled to 180, added hops whirlpooled and put lid on. I actually swirled it a few times in that 30 minutes. Then chill to 70 after the 30 minutes is up.
Single mash is fine. I did 15% oats.
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exileonmainst
Well-Known Member
I ended up shaking the keg and the head is better. I heard that "hop oils create a CO2 barrier" theory before, so maybe that's what happened. The head is still not perfect so maybe it just needs a bit more shaking. Thanks for the suggestion.
exileonmainst
Well-Known Member
TH's website lists it at 5.5%
http://www.tiredhands.com/cafe/beers/
I do recall it being lower when I first had it around a year ago, but I could be wrong. I suspect the recipe evolves slightly over time though.
Wonder if they use anything other than Pale Ale Malt and Oats? With 1318 it seems hard to get it to ferment down to 1.010 which is what someone said the FG is. Maybe they are using a small amount of corn sugar to dry it out?
ryancrook
Well-Known Member
I just had a problem with 1318 where it stalled around 1020. Had to throw some 05 dry yeast to finish it up.
Your welcome. Like I said, set at serving pressure, shake when you remember to, and within about a dozen times or so ( not scientific at this point ) you should reach equilibrium and carbonation.
My version of this with galaxy in place of the centennial has been in primary for about 10 days now. Getting ready to dry hop soon and was wondering if anyone has done a two stage dry hop on this recipe? Seems like a ton of hops in the dry hop to me, especially for a pale ale. I'm a little worried about over doing it (don't want it to smell like im dipping my nose in a bag od pellets) and was thinking about putting in half the hops for 5 days and then doing a second dry hop if I'm not satisfied with where it is at that point. Any thoughts?
mintyice
Well-Known Member
Yeah I've done 3oz in primary and another 3 in keg without any problems.
I have brewed this recipe like 4 times. I usually change the hops/water profile/yeast each time to see what difference it makes. They have ended up all real similar, but havent had them side by side. Do oats produce a unique flavor? I guess im not sure how to describe it, but i think it must be the oats i dont like. I love them for the mouthfeel etc but idk. I am going to a beer festival in SD this month and tired hands will be there so I am crossing my fingers to see what the real thing is like. Anyways my point is my other IPAs turn out alright and the oat based ones are always different, just wondering if people think the oats add flavor or something else is going on.
I think the oats definitely add a unique flavor and mouthfeel, one which I like a lot. Tired hands beers are amazing. You should definitely try as many tired hands beers as you can. I have the luxury of living 30 minutes away from the brewery. They tend to have oats and wheat added to a lot of their IPAs and pale ales. Definitely heavy on base malt with no specialty grains and heavy dry hopping. Lots of aroma.
Jeremym19
Active Member
Any thoughts on using 002 in this beer? My LHBS doesn't carry wyeast and was out of safale 04. Thanks for the research, tired hands is by far one of the best newer breweries that I have tried, everything they make is fantastic.
Likely will attenuate more than 1318 and 002 will drop out like a rock when done, so the beer will probably be very clear.
I am brewing this up for the second time tomorrow. I bumped up the pale malt to 9 lbs and the flakes oats to 2 lbs (18%). Will hop the same just looking for more oat creaminess and accounting for efficiency loss. My batch came in around 1.042 last time.
Will post back results in a couple weeks.
Will post back results in a couple weeks.
Jeremym19
Active Member
Thanks for the reply, I'll give it a try and do another batch with 1318 to compare
mintyice
Well-Known Member
Just kegged a variant on this recipe. 82.5% pale, 17.5% oats. All Azacca and Mosaic in the boil. Dry hopped with 2oz Centennial, 1oz Azacca, 1 oz Mosaic. Fermented 50/50 with 1318 and Brett C. Smells super fruity and dank at the same time. I'll let you know how it is once I tap it.
Jesterdeal
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Thanks for sharing this recipe. Had a pretty good first run. As someone who isn't primarily kegging, do you have any advice for bottle conditioning? The finished product was on the dry/bitter side (still freaking great, though).
Coff
Well-Known Member
I posted the recipe I have been using all summer, I believe this to be my final recipe and dont expect to be changing it at all. The few tweaks made over the last year have made this beer even better.
http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2015/08/tired-hands-hophands-clone-revisted.html
http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2015/08/tired-hands-hophands-clone-revisted.html
Thanks for the "final" recipe Coff, I'm gonna brew this one again with the changes you noted.
Few clarifications - when you dry hop in the keg do you dry hop at room temp and then remove them? Or at keg temp and leave them in? Also, what carb level do you shoot for? I've heard of a lower carb helping in the creaminess of a beer like this. What psi & temp do you carb it at?
Few clarifications - when you dry hop in the keg do you dry hop at room temp and then remove them? Or at keg temp and leave them in? Also, what carb level do you shoot for? I've heard of a lower carb helping in the creaminess of a beer like this. What psi & temp do you carb it at?
mintyice
Well-Known Member
My method:
Purge the keg with O2, bag the hops and weigh it down with a sanitized shot glass or spoon, tie the bag to a keg post with dental floss. Dry hop at room temp (65-70) and shake the keg once a day for 4 days. Take them out after 4 days and fridge it. I shoot for 2.0-2.2 volumes CO2 but that depends on the temperature of your fridge.
Lately I've just been adding the hops in primary towards the end of fermentation but that's just me being lazy. I'll cold crash in the fridge before racking to a keg. I've had problems with too much hop matter getting into the keg and getting pours with hop bits.
Best way is to do a sealed transfer with CO2 from primary to the liquid in post of a purged keg full of bagged/contained hops. After dry hopping, push the beer with CO2 from the liquid in to the liquid out of another purged serving keg. You need to make a keg to keg jumper with 2 liquid posts and tubing though.
Thanks. I've done the keg hop at keezer temp until the keg floats but always seem to get a bit of gunk for the first 7-8 pints. I've also thrown the hops in loose before in the primary bucket and was happy with the resulta. Lately with the conical setup I've dry hopped at the end of primary with loose hops but usually end up with some debris that I can't cold crash out that winds up plugging the keg during transfer. I transfer via CO2 from primary to the keg. I don't think I have the patience to burn two cleaned kegs just for one beer.
Always interested to hear somebody's method when theyve totally nailed down the recipe exactly the way they want.
Always interested to hear somebody's method when theyve totally nailed down the recipe exactly the way they want.
dstar26t
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing
Ed, can you talk about your procedure for mineral additions? What form of Calcium Chloride you use and when do you add it and the Gypsum if you don't mind?
mintyice
Well-Known Member
Not Ed, but I brew this enough I think I have it dialed it:
I target 120ppm sulfate. I have experimented with 300ppm (perception of drying bitterness went way up) and 200ppm, but 100-120ppm seems like the sweet spot. I target 100ppm Chloride. I use Bru'n water, so salts get added when adding the grains to the mash, and again when I batch sparge. I aim for 5.2-5.4 mash pH, usually planning for 5.3 so it can swing either way. I add lactic acid to both unheated mash and sparge water (typically around 2mL each).
Hope that helps.
dstar26t
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing
It does, thanks. Are you using a CaCl2 solution or the straight LD Carlson prills?
