Chugger pump fittings

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

lmd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2013
Messages
58
Reaction score
1
Location
Baltimore
I just got a chugger pump that I will primarily use to recirculate/whirlpool back into the kettle during cool down.

I am not sure what fittings/valves I need to get up and running. I don't need top of the line but I also don't need budget. Any suggestions?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
2nd on the BrewHardware Add-a-Pump kit. I am also using his weldless whirlpool port kit and street elbow drain kit. Add another valve, 1 type F camlock and 1 type A camlock and you will be good to go.
 
+1 BrewHardware. Also, spend the extra $5 and get the 3 piece valve. You can disassemble and rotate the valve piece in 90 degree steps to get the valve handle orientation where you want and still be able to tighten it enough to get a good seal.
 
+1 on everything above. I just did this last week. Bobby recommended I get the fitting that allows you to put the probe of a digital thermometer into the out flow from your kettle so you can monitor your temps. I used a tee after the ball valve on the kettle. It worked really well.
 
Look at the kit here: http://brewhardware.com/pumps/160-addapump

Buy that stuff. Keep in mind that list doesn't include the fittings on the kettle. It should be enough to get you started, though.

This and you'll want the male cam fittings for your kettle and whatever else you plan on hooking the pump into. Otherwise, I found that the add on kit on Bobby's site was worth every penny. I was dense and needed some guidance on where to put stuff but even on Easter sunday that man responds to me.
 
Thanks for the messages. I just got a chugger and have a 15 gallon blichman kettle. Will just get the fittings from Bobby
 
Imd

I should clarify that the drain kit I referred to is the weldless bulkhead option 3 with the EL barb. I centered the hole in my BC 1044 pot 1-5/8" from the exterior bottom. This put the barb opening approximately 3/16" off the interior bottom of my pot, so that the surface area of the imaginary cylinder through which the wort must pass entering the port equals the surface area of the port opening. My goal being to not restrict the flow while minimizing the liquid left in the pot. I can pick up all but a cup of water or a quart of wort/trub. My runoff did not appear to pick up any trub or hop pellet particles which weren't already still in suspension

I also downsized my whirlpool arm to 1/2" ID, instead of Bobby's standard 5/8", on the assumption the Chugger would still have sufficient pressure, even though magnetically coupled, to accelerate the wort though the smaller diameter tube. So far I am happy with that choice.

And Kingbogart is correct that the pump connection kit is what you need, not the add-a-pump.
 
+1 on everything above. I just did this last week. Bobby recommended I get the fitting that allows you to put the probe of a digital thermometer into the out flow from your kettle so you can monitor your temps. I used a tee after the ball valve on the kettle. It worked really well.


I use the the same set up, made transferable w a female cam lock on one leg if the T, a male cam lock on the "bull" of the T & the probe compression fitting on the other leg; this way I can use it to monitor my HLT return, then later the BK as it's cooling.



Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 

Latest posts

Back
Top