Cheap Ph Meter Vs. $100 Ph Meter Test

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I am in the market for a meter.

What three meters have this "seal of approval"?



Thank you.


I had the same question and the answer was this MW102. Just make sure you also buy the proper calibration solutions and probe storage solution.

It is a nice meter if you have about $150 you're willing to burn (with solutions). Make sure you have a solid water report first though otherwise you're flying blind...
 
The other two are the Omegaette and the Hach Pro +. These latter two are 'pen' style whereas the former uses the more conventional electrode/RTD arrangement. All three have replaceable (but more importantly stable) electrodes. The conventional electrode can be poked into a tighter place than the others in at least one of which (the Hach) the sample goes into a cup that also serves as the electrode's cover when stored.
 
Thank you both for the reply. I will look at those as well. I am sending my water sample out to Ward Labs today. I've been doing a lot of reading about water and meters, and the MW102 is atop my leader board. Also, the water primer sticky has been a great resource.
 
I will have to agree with audiodoggy. I bought one of the cheap pH meters to use with brewing and it works fine for me. It is not like I use the meter day in day out. I am lucky if a get to use mine twice a month. And as long as my wort pH is close to Brun Water results I am happy. I have had mine now for about a year. If it craps out so be it, I will just buy another one.
 
Am I missing something or is there a point difference between the two?


Not sure I understand your question. The two yellow meters are slightly different but obviously the same manufacturer. I purchased them roughly a year apart? Same specs.

The reason I bought another $11 pH meter was just to provide another set of datapoints. People disparage these meters so often I started to wonder if I had just gotten lucky with the one I had. Maybe one will crap out soon and I'll be sure to document that.
 
If you buy 2 meters that have a probability of failure of 50% in a year the probability that you will have two working meters at the end of a year is 25%. The probability that you will have two working meters at the end of 2 years is 6.25% and so on. So it is not really all that rare to be lucky. But most people won't be.

You can't derive significant reliability data from n = 2. This is why I encourage people to check the number of Amazon reviews on these things that report failure out of the box or within six months before wasting their money.

Now along these same lines no one but an idiot would buy a lottery ticket and yet you'd be amazed at the arguments I've had with people who think me a fool because I don't buy one. "Someone has to win" they say.
 
Now along these same lines no one but an idiot would buy a lottery ticket and yet you'd be amazed at the arguments I've had with people who think me a fool because I don't buy one. "Someone has to win" they say.

Lol. I've given up explaining to my work colleagues that buying lottery tickets as a group is not improving their chances of winning.
 
Not sure I understand your question. The two yellow meters are slightly different but obviously the same manufacturer. I purchased them roughly a year apart? Same specs.

The reason I bought another $11 pH meter was just to provide another set of datapoints. People disparage these meters so often I started to wonder if I had just gotten lucky with the one I had. Maybe one will crap out soon and I'll be sure to document that.

I see that there was a .1 difference between the meters which is a decent amount of difference.

I thought that you were justifying the cheap meter and was confused.
 
I see that there was a .1 difference between the meters which is a decent amount of difference.



I thought that you were justifying the cheap meter and was confused.


My goal is to determine if these cheap meters meet their specs, which is 0.1. For some folks, they want more precision and are willing to pay for it. For others, a water report, accurate software and a cheap pH meter with 0.1 resolution for a sanity check is good enough.

I'll leave it to the xbeerimenters to determine how noticeable 0.1 pH is in the range of 5.2 - 5.8...
 
But most people won't be.

You can't derive significant reliability data from n = 2. This is why I encourage people to check the number of Amazon reviews on these things that report failure out of the box or within six months before wasting...


You throw around a ton of numbers and statistics, and generally you're very accurate. But then you resort to vague statements like these....

Those are completely unqualified assertions. The truth is nobody knows what percentage of buyers end up with accurate meters for any length of time. Sure, some may be DOA, but some may have been misused and broken. Others might claim lack of functionality but have no way of verifying. Others like me seem to think they work as advertised and leave no feedback.


The major problem I see with pH meters in general are how damn hard they are to use properly. Temperature, proper buffers, storage solutions, patience, general knowledge of scientific procedures.... It's no wonder the casual user of cheap meters are deterred. Same goes for expensive meters I'm sure, but the demographic that buys those likely differs.

My goal here is to prove to myself that cheap meters either do or don't live up to their specs. I have no dog in this fight.

You get downright emotional about this topic AJ, I just don't see why. If these are junk like you say, time will tell. Or maybe they aren't that bad after all.
 
But most people won't be.

You can't derive significant reliability data from n = 2. This is why I encourage people to check the number of Amazon reviews on these things that report failure out of the box or within six months before wasting .

You throw around a ton of numbers and statistics, and generally you're very accurate. But then you resort to vague statements like these....
Which part of this is vague? Those are three very plain statements of fact.

Those are completely unqualified assertions. The truth is nobody knows what percentage of buyers end up with accurate meters for any length of time. Sure, some may be DOA, but some may have been misused and broken. Others might claim lack of functionality but have no way of verifying. Others like me seem to think they work as advertised and leave no feedback.

The worst way to infer the reliability of a product is to buy 2, say they both work after a couple of years and declare the product reliable (actually, of course, worse yet is to buy one). The best way is to obtain a sample large enough that some statistical significance can be attached to the observed survival rate. Somewhere in between is to try to draw conclusions from the experiences of a large body of users. Yes, competitors will post that the product is a POS and the supplier will post that it's the best thing to ever hit the market and the ignorant will post "works good". Anyone with common sense should know how to apply some English to such reviews. But when a guy says "worked OK for 3 months then failed" or "didn't work out of the box" you know that guy had a problem and the number of such reports on these cheap meters runs about 30%. Are Amazon reviews the best source of reliability data? No, clearly not but they are much better than the experience of a guy who had two meters that didn't fail after 2 years.

Then there is common sense. Can Fedex possibly deliver to your door in the USA a product made in China for a price of $10 that is more than a toy? Now i've had lengthy arguments here that the $10 meter is really the same as a $110 meter with the difference being $100 of marketing hype. Anyone that has held a $10 meter in one hand and a $110 meter in the other sees the fallacy of that argument.


The major problem I see with pH meters in general are how damn hard they are to use properly. Temperature, proper buffers, storage solutions, patience, general knowledge of scientific procedures.... It's no wonder the casual user of cheap meters are deterred.
They actually aren't that hard to use at all if you understand how they work and how to use them properly. Perhaps my feeling that this is the case is colored somewhat by how much easier they have become to use in the past 10 - 20 years. Cost of a good meter is way down and electrode stability and longevity much improved.


Same goes for expensive meters I'm sure, but the demographic that buys those likely differs.
An expensive meter and a less expensive meter (but one of sufficient quality to be useful to a brewer) are the same in use except that the more expensive meter may be a little easier to use because of better stability and/or because it has 'bells and whistles' (such as automatic logging of readings, the ability to accept other types of electrodes, ability to be commanded by and transfer data to a computer...)

My goal here is to prove to myself that cheap meters either do or don't live up to their specs. I have no dog in this fight.
Actually your goal here is to convince yourself that they do. That is clear from the way you write. You do have a dog in the fight and his name is Confirmation Bias. In any case, even if you could put Confimation Bias back in his kennel, you won't be able to prove your cases unless you buy say 50 (I'm throwing that out as a number - you'd have to chose n carefully based on the level of confidence you want) of these things and check them out.


You get downright emotional about this topic AJ, I just don't see why.
I'm trying to help brewers. People that try to convince brewers that a meter with a resolution of 0.1 and unacceptable failure rates may think they are helping brewers but they aren't. I do get frustrated as this subject keeps coming up over and over again and people keep getting taken in.


If these are junk like you say, time will tell. Or maybe they aren't that bad after all.

I think time has pretty much told. Usually when I get into one of these discussions several people chime in with their bad experiences with these cheap meters. Whether that will happen this time or not I do not know.
 
My goal is to determine if these cheap meters meet their specs, which is 0.1.
I'll leave it to the xbeerimenters to determine how noticeable 0.1 pH is in the range of 5.2 - 5.8...

I don't think you understand what 0.1 accuracy means. It does not mean that the meter displays a value that is within 0.1 of the true value of the sample's pH for every reading. It means that the error will be equal to or less than 0.1 pH 68% of the time or, put another way, 68% of the time the reading will be within a ±0.1 pH band centered around the true pH. But then 32% of the time the error will be larger than 0.1. The probability that the reading is in a ±0.2 pH band is 95%. That means that 5% of measurements are insufficiently accurate to even let us know if we are in the 5.2 - 5.6 target pH band. Is that acceptable? If it is then, as I put in another post, why spend the $10? Just rely on the accuracy of you spreadsheets predictions. They are comparable.
 
Serious question AJ - do you have Asperger Syndrome? You are obviously one of the most knowledgeable people around here when it comes to water chemistry, but the way you consistently imply that people who disagree with you lack common sense and intelligence make me wonder. I've even seen you rudely snap at Martin Brungard. I'm just trying to put your replies into perspective here.

I adamantly disagree that you can draw any firm conclusions on a device's performance based on Amazon reviews. I realize that my 2 meters will not be the end all, be all, but so far it's the only systematic long term comparison I've ever seen. If anyone wants to ship me a cheap meter or two I'm happy to throw them in the mix.

As far as determining if these meters meet their specs, with enough measurements I should very clearly be able to determine if their standard deviation is less than 0.1. That's the point of my ongoing tests. This isn't a peer reviewed white paper, this is a transparent ongoing homebrew experiment. After a while, if it turns out that these meters are pure crap after XX months, or if they are rock solid, I will attempt to draw a conclusion and quantify the results.

The jury is still out in my opinion...

P.S. - the reason I contend that a low resolution, but reliable, meter is still useful is that I depend on city water. That water is subject to change with very little notice. I don't plan to get weekly water tests, so if something is way off I can investigate accordingly before blaming infections, etc.
 
Serious question AJ - do you have Asperger Syndrome?
I'm hardly qualified to judge but yes, I rather think I am so blessed. A lifetime of ignoring what is now called 'political correctness' and, in general, wondering what all the fuss is about (e.g. this post) has brought me more success in life than I had ever hoped for. I did see once an article in which the author was trying to quantify the 'suffering' of Asperger's only to find that the victims of this 'malady' unanimously consider it a gift. I certainly do and that's why I think I may qualify. I m definitely of the opinion that the Asperger's-ish guys (remember that I was an engineer and so know many, many of them) have got it right and that the world would operate a lot more smoothly if people thought the way we do. There is no question that this personality trait defines an eccentric and so I definitely plead guilty to that label if you need to go labeling people.

You are obviously one of the most knowledgeable people around here when it comes to water chemistry,
Thanks. But see Dilbert's 'The Knack' on YouTube

..but the way you consistently imply that people who disagree with you lack common sense...
We both know that common sense is extremely rare these day(much rarer today than it was in the past). Nevertheless I do often appeal to common sense because it is very powerful. If common sense dictates that you can't produce a product to a high quality standard in a country half way around the world and ship it to a consumer in the US for $10 (unless it's toothpicks or chop sticks or something like that) and someone thinks that you can and you advise that person to use his common sense you are obviously implying that that person has not used his common sense but you are not implying that he has none. You will note that the posts do not say 'You have no common sense'. They say things like 'Common sense should tell you' or 'Use common sense.' If you realize that you have put your common sense on hold and, as a result of such a comment, get it down and use it then you have benefited. If your feelings got hurt, well that's "stiff bikkies" as the Aussies say. You have still benefited. In the olden days shaming a student for failure to think or use common sense was a common pedagogical technique and it worked. The current policies in which teachers are directed to put the student's self esteem before his intellectual progress is responsible for the appalling state of public education in this country.


...and intelligence make me wonder.
Let's face it: 90% of the population is in the bottom 9 deciles. I can't do anything about that except hope that some 'education' (what I try to provide here) will help them understand their world (brewing world anyway) a little better. I have never used phrases like "That's stupid" or "You are stupid" in a post. While lots of stupid statements are made here usually the post is the result of ignorance rather than stupidity, You, for example, seem to be ignorant of basic statistical knowledge. OK. So what? Perhaps you are a brilliant poet or musician. It doesn't matter. I can try to give you some insight into the statistical methods you need to understand if not lay out the whole necessary nine yards. If that makes you feel stupid, it shouldn't. It should make you feel ignorant and resolved to remove that ignorance. If your feelings get hurt then that's your problem - not mine. My intent is to help you understand the science (this is a science forum), not boost your self esteem.


.I've even seen you rudely snap at Martin Brungard.
Wasn't aware Martin had protected status here.


I'm just trying to put your replies into perspective here.

To help me help you let's consider a recent sequence

I cannot seem to find anywhere either on my PC software (beersmith) or the other calculators of how much my water pH will be reduced without adding grain and just adding salt.

Oh, come on. Don't toy with the person.

Yes, adding calcium salts like gypsum or calcium chloride won't change the pH of WATER, but they do change the pH of the wort in a mash.

To which I responded "Que?"

Would that be an example of me being rude to Martin or Martin being rude to me?


I adamantly disagree that you can draw any firm conclusions on a device's performance based on Amazon reviews.
For there to be a disagreement, adamant or otherwise, you would have to find where I said that you could draw firm conclusions and you won'y be able to do that. A basic understanding of freshman statistics says that you will probably get a more realistic picture that way than from your observations of 2 meters though and that's why I recommend people do that. Common sense also tells you the shortcomings of the Amazon method.



As far as determining if these meters meet their specs, with enough measurements I should very clearly be able to determine if their standard deviation is less than 0.1.
You can determine whether the rmse of the readings from the two meters is less than 0.1 but you cannot determine the accuracy of the meters. To do that you would need a more accurate meter to compare your meter's readings to.


That's the point of my ongoing tests. This isn't a peer reviewed white paper, this is a transparent ongoing homebrew experiment. After a while, if it turns out that these meters are pure crap after XX months, or if they are rock solid, I will attempt to draw a conclusion and quantify the results.
You need to get a basic statistics text and learn enough to be able to 'design' your experiment(s). A big part of this is determining the sample size that will give you results that carry reasonable statistical confidence. You will quickly discover that you won't get that with n = 2.

The jury is still out in my opinion...
That's because your thinking is ruled by bias. Try to free yourself of this and see things as they are. Even if the meter does meet it's spec of 0.1 rmse that is not sufficient for most people who use a pH meter in brewing. You can;t see, for example, if an acid addition gives you the desired 0.05 decrease in mash pH in a case where that's what you want.
 
You're focused on N=2 here. The point is that I can make hundreds measurements with each to achieve proper statistics, again, to determine if these meters meet their spec. My target audience here is the average Homebrewer, which in my opinion does not obsess over the hundredths mash pH. Maybe I'm wrong, but you are clearly operations at 10/10ths when the majority are happy with 7/10ths.
 
My beers have gotten real good since I started adjusting the water. A good part of that is reading and following (though not always understanding) what Martin and AJ post here, part is being able to get my mash pH 'close enough' with the cheap toy meter. Probably it is surplus to requirements in that its accuracy is likely similar to bru'n'water, but it is close enough to let me know I'm on the right track and there is value in that. Also it is handy for checking if the bucket of starsan is still good to use. I do this after checking the mash while the meter is calibrated.
While a lab precision meter would be nice, I think there is some value in the cheap meters for brewers like me.
 
You're focused on N=2 here.
Yes, I am and you need to be too.

The point is that I can make hundreds measurements with each to achieve proper statistics, again, to determine if these meters meet their spec.
As far as I can determine from your posts you don't have the equipment to do that but perhaps you do have, but haven't mentioned that you do, a meter with accuracy of ±0.01 or ±0.02 pH whose readings you will compare to the test piece's reading in order to estimate the error. To 'achieve proper statistics' the standard of comparison needs to produce measurement errors at least 5 times and preferably 10 times smaller than the device being tested.

In this case it is pretty easy to determine how many error measurements you need to make. An instrument with precision of 0.1 cannot possibly be more accurate than ±0.028 so you will want the standard error in the mean (SEM) of your measurement series to be less than that magnitude by a factor of at least five. Assuming that errors will be approximately as specified for the UUT we get so n ~ (5*0.1/(0.028))^2 =320 will do and if you don't really want to measure the quantizing noise but just accept that it is ±0.028 and look for the other error sources then a couple dozen measurements will do. But 0.028 is a substantial part of the specified error budget.

Now I'm afraid you have to ask yourself at this point "Do I understand what he put in those last couple of paragraphs? If the answer is "No" you have to accept that you don't have the basic statistics you need to conduct a simple test. You will need to aquire that knowlege. A freshman statisitics text will serve.

Now to get onto the n=2 upon which we must focus. Lets say that the two units you have in hand each is perfect in every way and you have done a few hundred tests. These will indicate that the accuracy of these UUT's is ±0.028 and you can then report here that you measured 2 units and both gave accuracy of ±0.028. Appeciably better than spec!. That isn't totally valueless but it is pretty much valueless to the reader as he doesn't care how accurate the meter(s) you have in hand are. What he wants to know is how accurate the meter he is likely to find in that Amazon box is likely to be. What the reader wants to see is a statement such as "We checked 100 meters and found that 90% of them delivered specified or better accuracy"

Of course someone who buys a meter with a resolution of 0.1 doesn't really care about accuracy as while he probably doesn't know about the 0.028 limitation nor what specified accuracy of 0.1 implies he doubtless understands that it's not as good as ±0.02 or ±0.01. What he does care about is whether the thing is likely to be dead out of the box so he want's to see a statement like "We obtained 100 units. Twenty arrived non functioning. Another 20 failed in the first month..." You aren't going to be buying 100 units and testing them and I am not either so the best way available to a potential purchaser is to try to glean what he can of such information from Amazon reviews, comments by users here etc.


Don't pretend your syntax technicalities absolve you of being a keyboard warrior.
I pretend nothing but I don't know what a 'keyboard warrior' is. I also don't know what 'syntax technicalities' are.

Either you do you have a clinical condition or you'd never actually speak like this to people's face.
And you would be qualified to judge this?

I do in fact talk to people in this way all the time. I was an engineer and engineers are interested in solving problems. If someone's screws up and his feelings get a little hurt when what he doesn't understand is explained to him that person will, it is hoped, learn from the experience. Now when dealing with my colleagues I was privileged to be dealing with the top decile (or better) in intelligence. These guys were, by virtue of their intelligence, usually mature and self confident enough that a little back and forth between us was not a problem. Martin fits into this group and he and I poke at each other all the time. I don't mind a bit and I hope he doesn't either.

To be continued on my next brew day....

https://youtu.be/C6BYzLIqKB8

My kind of guy!

My target audience here is the average Homebrewer, which in my opinion does not obsess over the hundredths mash pH. Maybe I'm wrong, but you are clearly operations at 10/10ths when the majority are happy with 7/10ths.

Que?

I will point out that we are in the Brew Science forum which is, by and large, about brewing science. People interested in the science of brewing do indeed 'obsess' about hundredths of pH all the time. Perhaps if you posted your findings in one of the beginners forums it would be a better fit.
 
Again - if we were evaluating these meters in a NIST metrology lab, I agree. We're not. I'm trying to determine if a couple of cheap meters can demonstrate accuracy within 0.1pH of a so-called "HBT Approved" expensive meter. So far I only have a couple of meters and a few measurements. We'll see where this thread goes as I make more measurements.

I'm glad you quoted my posts as a Moderator has apparently removed much of my last post. This is not my area of expertise, and I don't mind being proven wrong. I'm also an engineer and work daily with the top decile in intelligence - the big difference is that very few people I've come across talk to people the way you do. The immediate assault on others' intelligence if they disagree is an undesirable trait in the scientific community. You do this every single time someone does not immediately fall in line with your view on a particular topic. It's a free country and I'm not asking moderators to censor you, but I'd also like the freedom to call out a-hole behavior when I see it more than once.

Regarding 10/10ths - I'm implying that you are an extreme example of someone that takes into account the smallest minutia when homebrewing. Your effort and rigor far exceed that of any homebrewer I've ever met, and likely a huge percentage of homebrewers at large. This is not a bad thing, just your thing.

I consider myself something like a 7/10ths brewer - someone who wants to take as much as possible into account when brewing, but only so far as is required to produce great beer. I simply don't have the time required to delve into the details and fret about the small stuff.

This thread was intended to START the process of peeling back the veil on cheap pH meters. I hear a lot about how bad they are so I wanted to see that for myself. So far I haven't been able to replicate the horror stories, but maybe this will change. I don't know yet.
 
It's a free country and I'm not asking moderators to censor you, but I'd also like the freedom to call out a-hole behavior when I see it more than once.

No name-calling here. It's in the HBT Constitution's Bill of Wrongs.

To everyone involved here: I don't think it's useful to post if you don't intend on being effective. To be effective, you can't condescend to your audience. Also, explicit namecalling and veiled attempts at it are both counterproductive and result in the subject changing from technical to emotional. That's not an effective way to communicate.
 
I want to chime in on the $10 meter. I had 3 crap out on me in a year 1 DOA, 1 that was wildly inaccurate, and 1 that worked well enough for 3 months. They looked like the same yellow one pictured.

Bought a Hach pocket pro+ and it has worked very well I have only recalibrated in once in the time I have owned it as it is always true in buffer solutions. (I brew 2-4 times a month)
 
Again - if we were evaluating these meters in a NIST metrology lab, I agree. We're not. I'm trying to determine if a couple of cheap meters can demonstrate accuracy within 0.1pH of a so-called "HBT Approved" expensive meter. So far I only have a couple of meters and a few measurements. We'll see where this thread goes as I make more measurements.

I don't think there is really any question about that. A meter that has just been calibrated in 4 buffer and 7 buffers that reads 4.0 and 7.0 in the stability test for a period of an hour is going to read within 0.1 pH of a stable higher quality meter that has also been calibrated. If 0.1 is sufficient all you really need to do is the stability test and see if the UUT stays at 4.0 for as long as you need it to on your brew day. It is, of course, of some value to verify that they do this as if they only stay within 0.1 for 15 minutes then they aren't worth much (though they could still be used if one were willing to calibrate them before each reading). Thus I applaud an effort to check the stability of these items but as I have strongly encouraged buyers of any meter to do the stability check I don't think you are adding much to the body of knowledge as if the brewer does check his new meter (and common sense says that he would on a $10 item) what you experienced isn't as important to him as what he saw. Of course your 2 data points are 2 more data points and there is some value in that.

If one goes to the user reviews on these meters one doesn't see many complaints about their failure to hold calibration (as the function of calibration is to remove error any meter is error free at calibration if it has the resolution to display the actual buffer pH and inaccuracy in a meter is thus failure to hold calibration). What one does see is frequent reports of failure after a month or two such as in the post just before this one. Thus in assaying accuracy I think you are addressing a problem the community is not interested in.

I'm glad you quoted my posts as a Moderator has apparently removed much of my last post. This is not my area of expertise, and I don't mind being proven wrong. I'm also an engineer and work daily with the top decile in intelligence - the big difference is that very few people I've come across talk to people the way you do. The immediate assault on others' intelligence if they disagree is an undesirable trait in the scientific community. You do this every single time someone does not immediately fall in line with your view on a particular topic.
Then you should have no trouble finding a couple of examples of this in my posts. As I said in an earlier post I am not aware that I have ever called anyone stupid or said that a remark they made was stupid but I don't remember everything I have written so if you could point me to a couple of places where I did that I'd appreciate it. I would also hope that the administrators would have call it to my attention if I did what you say I did but then they can't be on top of everything all the time.

It's a free country and I'm not asking moderators to censor you, but I'd also like the freedom to call out a-hole behavior when I see it more than once.
By all means. Let's see the examples. As far as I am concerned you are welcome to call me on such behaviour every time you see it but you had better have chapter and verse when you do.

Regarding 10/10ths - I'm implying that you are an extreme example of someone that takes into account the smallest minutia when homebrewing. Your effort and rigor far exceed that of any homebrewer I've ever met, and likely a huge percentage of homebrewers at large. This is not a bad thing, just your thing.
Well I readily admit that I am after rigor and again I'll remind you that we are in the Brew Science forum.

I consider myself something like a 7/10ths brewer - someone who wants to take as much as possible into account when brewing, but only so far as is required to produce great beer. I simply don't have the time required to delve into the details and fret about the small stuff.
Better is the enemy of good enough.

This thread was intended to START the process of peeling back the veil on cheap pH meters. I hear a lot about how bad they are so I wanted to see that for myself. So far I haven't been able to replicate the horror stories, but maybe this will change. I don't know yet.
As an engineer you should know that you aren't going to be able to draw conclusions about reliability based on a sample size of 2. When you buy component's from a supplier don't you look at the 'ility' data?
 
I have the Milawaukee 102 and am curious about the actual temp of the probe.

I had mine in a high 50s basement and then was checking some pHs. Should I store that actual probe at about the same temperature as my samples?
 
I want to chime in on the $10 meter. I had 3 crap out on me in a year 1 DOA, 1 that was wildly inaccurate, and 1 that worked well enough for 3 months. They looked like the same yellow one pictured.
From the data in this thread we have 3 meters that worked for a year and 3 that didn't. The best we can say at this point is that the probability of getting a meter that lasts a year from this source is 50%. But we have no (or little) confidence in that number because n = 6 is too small a sample. Supposing the reliability is really 50%. The probability of 3 or more failures is only 34%. Suppose the probability of failure is 90%. Then the probability of 3 or more failures is 98.4%. Thus we can be 98.4% confident that the probability of failure is less that 90% but only 34% confident that it is less that 50%. I wouldn't buy one of these based on those numbers but then I wouldn't want to make the decision based on n = 6.

Bought a Hach pocket pro+ and it has worked very well I have only recalibrated in once in the time I have owned it as it is always true in buffer solutions. (I brew 2-4 times a month)
I really do recommend a full cal every time you brew (with new buffers). The cal isn't really more difficult at all than a cal check unless it flunks the cal check and you wind up having to do the full cal anyway.
 
I had mine in a high 50s basement and then was checking some pHs. Should I store that actual probe at about the same temperature as my samples?

The less temperature stress to which the electrode is subjected the better. Changing from 50 °F to 70°F for a measurement isn't much of a stress but if you store closer to measurement temperature the stress will be even less and your probe will come to thermal equilibrium with the sample faster.
 
The less temperature stress to which the electrode is subjected the better. Changing from 50 °F to 70°F for a measurement isn't much of a stress but if you store closer to measurement temperature the stress will be even less and your probe will come to thermal equilibrium with the sample faster.

Perfect.

I see that there's a liquid inside of the probe and it made me wonder.
 
I appreciate the restraint that has been shown here and rules are not being violated. But, sometimes its not just about following the rules. Other members are reporting this thread because it is becoming unreadable - AJ and Eduardo, please refrain from replying to each other for a while. Lets get the thread back on track here.
 
I see that there's a liquid inside of the probe and it made me wonder.

The liquid in the pH sensing bulb is sealed in so as the temperature in the bulb rises so does the pressure but I have been led to believe that that is not the concern. Rather it is the stress in the glass itself that is. What happens if you pour boiling water into a cheap glass tumbler? That sort of thing.

The other fluid containing chamber (the reference cell) is open to the outside and so increase in pressure there isn't a concern either.
 
No one deserves protected status here and I use my real name in forums to keep me honest and civil. I wish more participants would, but I know of cases where participants had to remain more anonymous to protect their job. I do try to think before typing, try to add REAL value to a thread, stand by my words, and be nice!

AJ's response of Que? was appropriate since I did miss that the original question referred to the water before the grain was incorporated. In a way, I was therefore wrong. AJ does keep me honest and I try to do the same...when necessary. This was not one of those cases.

I do caution the premise of this thread. It is difficult to assess the reliability and performance of an electronic instrument based on this informal forum. But I do believe that it would be difficult to contend that a $10 instrument that has some moderately complicated elements in it, could be as reliable or accurate as a more costly unit. The good thing is that the accuracy and reliability of a cheap pH meter doesn't matter much, since lives or livelihoods aren't on the line in homebrewing. But for a pro-brewer to rely on such an instrument is foolish. I was brought in to consult at a brewery several years ago that was using cheap instruments. They had 100's of barrels of beer that were destroyed due to their inability to measure and control their brewing. Unfortunately, I was brought in too late to fix their problems and they went out of business a couple of weeks later.

If your brewing matters, buy the best equipment that you can afford. That means different things to each of us, but do the best you can.
 
Wow, can't believe I haven't brewed for 7 months! I've been drinking less beer lately, so I guess that's a good thing.

Back at it again with a Maris Otter SMASH-ish. Original batteries on everything so far.

BLUF: These cheapo meters still seem to be holding their own! MW201 - 5.43, Cheapo1 - 5.5, Cheapo2 - 5.5!

:tank:

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So what does this tell us?

Fiirst, that one person bought two cheepies and they both worked for more than a year. Assuming the population probability of failure in that time to be 0.3 (30% - no claim that that is the number - just that user reports seem to indicate a number like that) the probability of 0 failures in a sample of 2 is (1 - 0.3)^2 = 0.49 or 49%. Even with a pretty high (IMO) failure rate about half of people who buy two will find neither fails in over a year. And the probability of failure of at least one is 2*(0.3)*(0.7) = 0.42 (43%) and of two is (0.3)^3 = 0.09 or 9%. Thus, in statistical terms, we have very little confidence that the failure rate is less than 30%. By comparison, if we tested 10 meters and had no failures the probability of that event would be (1 - 0.3)^10 = 0.04 (4%) and we would be able to say, at less than the 5% confidence level, that the meters have better reliability than 30%. Five percent is often the minimum acceptable confidence level. Thus the survival of two meters for more than a year doesn't tell us anything useful with respect to the hypothesis that these are really reliable. One would need to do this test on at least 10. And then, of course, we'd complain that 5% isn't a very comfortable confidence level but that's the nature of statistics folks!

Second, that the apparent accuracy of these meters would be unacceptable to many brewers. While one can no more draw any statistically significant information as to whether the population of these meters meet their specified accuracy from a sample of two than he can about reliability, it may be helpful to some to look into what these readings tell us about the meters assuming they do meet their specified accuracy of 0.1 pH rms. The meter reads a voltage and temperature. Both of these are corrupted by noise and bias and one of the differences between cheap and more expensive meters is in processing done to minimize the effects of the noise with the biases taken out by calibration (that's what the buffer stuff is all about). The meter takes the measured voltage and temperature and sticks them into an equation which produces a number. This number is then rounded (which introduces 'quantizing noise') and the rounded number displayed. The quantizing noise is, in a good system, about 10 or more dB below the other noises so it doesn't distort the reading. The quantizing noise for an 0.1 precision display is 0.029 pH and this is 10.7dB below the stated accuracy of these cheapie meters which is 0.1 pH. For the Milwaukee meter the quantizing noise is around 0.0029 pH which is 17 db below the specified accuracy of 0.02 pH. Both meters are well designed in this regard. So we accept that the meters both read and display, unencumbered by quatizing noise, the actual pH with the readings corrupted only by the random noises as accurately described by their accuracy specifications (0.1 and 0.02). This means that what the display says isn't the actual, true, pH but something 'close' to it with what close means depending on the accuracy. The meter reads the most likely pH but other pH's are possible.

The curves below show the distribution of probable actual pH's from the two meters given their readings. The most likely pH's are at the 0.5 (median, 50%) level but the distributions of the probable actual pH's about that point are quite different. Looking first at the Milwaukee curves we see that the probable actual pH will be above between 5.44 in 10% of measurements where the meter reads 5.43 and below 5.46 in 90% of measurements so we conclude 5.44 < pH < 5.46 80% of the time. The numbers from the cheapie meters are 5.37 < pH < 5.62 in 80% of measurements.

Now whether that spread is acceptable or not depends entirely on the user's perspective which, in turn, depends on what he is trying to do. If all he cares about is getting his mash into the 5.4 - 5.6 range then likely it is. If he's trying to see if a difference in mash pH between 5.4 and 5.5 makes a perceptible difference in his beer then clearly it isn't.

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@PGEduardo Re: "n = 2"
[I know I should stay out of this] I usually have to read everything AJ says about 3 or 4 times before I understand a little of it. I think I'm a pretty smart guy, but chemistry and statistics are way outside my areas of expertise and it's been over 35 years since I studied them. Anyway,

The Milwaukee MW102 meter is sufficiently-higher in accuracy to use it as a standard by which to judge the two cheap meters, so long as you keep it calibrated. AJ could tell you the exact margin of error, and I think he has already in a previous post.

The biggest problem with your test is the sample size. You have shown that your two cheap meters have held up for a year and still provide useful readings. But nobody knows whether your two meters are good representatives or if you just got lucky (or unlucky) in the draw. Taking more meter reading with the same 2 meters does not increase the sample size (it does tell you something, I'm not sure exactly what, perhaps how much those 2 meters drift) you'd have to buy a bunch more meters (100 more? 300 more?) and test them too to have statistically valid results. And the information gleaned from that testing would probably not be worth the cost.

I appreciate you putting your test results out there for everyone to see. A little bit of data is better than no data as long as one doesn't try to draw sweeping conclusions from it.
 
If anyone wants to ship me some cheapos I'll gladly throw them in the mix.

I think I actually agree with AJ here - my goal is to shed some light on whether these cheap meters are useful at all for the casual hobbyist. IE - is your mash in the right range.

If you are perfecting a recipe and really dialing in your chemistry these are not the meters for you.
 
Greetings to everyone
I'm new to the forum and a new owner of a yellow pH meter. Whether one of you measured the pH of the garden soil with it (in 3 x more water, dissolved soil). The results were 8, which is completely false. The litmus strips gave me a pH of 5.
Tap water have 7.2, baking soda 8.1.
 
If you are happy with the results you get using an economy pH meter, then that's great. If you are happy with the results you get using a higher end pH meter, then that's great too. Whether you love or hate sour beers is a personal preference. The same thing applies to pH meters and many other things in life. It seems pointless, and exhausting, trying to convert someone to your way of thinking.
 
Greetings to everyone
Whether one of you measured the pH of the garden soil with it (in 3 x more water, dissolved soil). The results were 8, which is completely false. The litmus strips gave me a pH of 5.
I'm not 100% certain how to interpret this (perhaps English is not the first language here) but if it says that this meter read 8 in a soil sample when pH strips said 5 and that, therefore, the meter is wrong I'll point out that you can't draw that conclusion. Yes, the inexpensive meters are often off by quite a bit but litmus paper is pretty useless for pH measurement. Telling us what litmus paper says is about as valuable as telling us your hydrangeas are blue.
Tap water have 7.2,
As tap water pH can range from below 6 to 10 or more that's not very useful.
baking soda 8.1.
Now here we're getting somewhere. A sodium bicarbonate solution has a pH of about 8.3 so at first blush it appears this meter is off by 0.2.

To meaningfully characterize the performance of this meter carry out the stability test in the sticky at the top of this forum.
 
Just meticulously tried to calibrate a cheapo meter. Not stable at all, even during the calibration process!
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Came back to it and retested after the meter was off for a while and it's on the money! I'll retest this evening and tomorrow to check stability over a little time. How long will the calibration solution last?
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My el cheapo Chinese junk from the Amazon still works fine after 2 years. If it ever fails, which maybe it won't, I'll buy the same model again. It's the same kind as the purple one above.
 
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