Careful, the only plastic carboys that are appropriate for homebrewing are #1 grade, such as Better Bottles. Ordinary water bottles are typically a #6 or #7. Some use them anyway, but IMHO you're asking for problems. You could boil in a rusty kettle too, and maybe your beer will turn out fine for awhile, but it's bad form and it could rear its ugly head.Mr. Nice Guy said:I'm pretty sure I'll get a plastic one at Wal-Crap and make a batch with that too. I just like glass over plastic, why can't Graphix make plastic carboys, lol...
Mr. Nice Guy said:Thanks everybody for the quick replies, much appreciated. I live in the 4 corners area, Durango,Colorado. Lots of great beers here between all the local stuff and New Belguim of course with Fat Tire and one of my favorites, Sunshine Wheat. THANKS again...
olllllo said:You have, what... 4 micro in a town of 20,000 plus the Siebel Brewing Institute's ocasional seminars.
Dude count your blessings.
deathweed said:I do my apfelvein in a 5gal plastic water bottle, I save my carboys and $$ for my beer:cross:
chione said:I have my second batch going in a 5 gal water bottke (Arrowhead)! The first one turned out great. I also use the water bottles for secondaries and THEY WORK FINE I HAVE YET TO FIND ANYONE WHO USED WATER BOTTLES THAT HAS AN ISSUE WITH THEM. I call them better better bottles because they work like better bottles but are free and thus better
AFAJ Brew Guy said:True they do work, but they are easily scratched and they are also oxygen permeable.
IMO, not a risk I am willing to take, then again people do say that I have a "Type A" personality.
chione said:The question is the risk real or perceived?
mrkristofo said:The risk of oxygen permeability is very real. It has to deal with the chemistry of the polymer in the plastic.
Or in the words of Ron Burgundy, "It's Science."
chione said:I have looked at the O2 permeability and it doesn't seem to be the issue. Have you ever heard of anyone who has had their beer oxidize because of using a type 7 plastic carboy? I bet you a beer you have not....
olllllo said:#7 plastic uses a grab bag of plastics to manufacture a bottle, there's no way to tell what you are getting with respect to O2 permeability. You have chosen to gamble with that and it appears you have won. Congrats.
Better Bottle offers a product that is designed to address O2 permeability.
Most people choose to and advise others to play it safe and not use #7 bottles.
As an example, a few weeks ago I had the opportunity to take part in an oxidation experiment conducted by Kaiser and several others from this board. He had 4 beers which he purposely added various amounts O2 before bottling so that he could see the effects of oxidation.
None of the samples was discernible from the control.
The takeaway is that oxidation might be more difficult to get than most people think. However, it would be silly for anyone to recommend that it perfectly acceptable to aerate your beer before bottling.
So in a longish way, to answer your question, no, I have not heard of anyone personally getting oxidized product using a #7 because:
1) Most people follow the logic in the advice and don't risk it.
2) Most people do not secondary for very long (or do at all).
3) For what ever reason, those that do this seem so strident about it, I often see that they stop posting here because they can't seem to let it go. (Oddly enough one is another San Diegan that hasn't posted in 8 months.)
What is the longest that you've kept a secondary in a #7? Would you trust a barleywine in it?
olllllo said:As an example, a few weeks ago I had the opportunity to take part in an oxidation experiment conducted by Kaiser and several others from this board. He had 4 beers which he purposely added various amounts O2 before bottling so that he could see the effects of oxidation.