Changing o-ring while keg is already carbonated??

[BigEasy43]

I have a two keg setup on one regulator and it seems one keg is pouring alot quicker and both have 11ft of line and regulator is set to 11psi. I have read that changing the o ring on the dip tube might fix this issue. My question is since the keg is already carbonated will I cause issues changing this o ring? Any help would be great.

 

[day_trippr]

Compare the beer lines between the two kegs: if the suspect one has a lot of foam while the "good" one is running clear, it is possible the suspect keg has a damaged O-ring located under the long dip tube flange. If that O-ring is missing or nicked it can allow CO2 under pressure in the head space to be injected into the beer at the Out post.

Otoh, if the two lines are both running clear, your problem is unlikely to be caused by an O-ring.

Pretty much any "repair" on a pressurized corny keg is nbd: disconnect both lines, lock the PRV open to keep the head space at atmospheric pressure, and then you can replace any parts you desire...

Cheers!

 

[CadiBrewer]

Compare the beer lines between the two kegs: if the suspect one has a lot of foam while the "good" one is running clear, it is possible the suspect keg has a damaged O-ring located under the long dip tube flange. If that O-ring is missing or nicked it can allow CO2 under pressure in the head space to be injected into the beer at the Out post.

Otoh, if the two lines are both running clear, your problem is unlikely to be caused by an O-ring.

Pretty much any "repair" on a pressurized corny keg is nbd: disconnect both lines, lock the PRV open to keep the head space at atmospheric pressure, and then you can replace any parts you desire...

Cheers!

This is pretty great info on the dip tube o-ring. I always assumed that it that o-ring were bad, beer would leak out from under the post, but as long as that weren't happening, things are okay.

I have two kegs that were both from the same batch and were bulk carbonated in the conical. The first one was foamy the entire keg and poured quickly even though it has 20 feet of bev-seal line. It kicked two nights ago, so I tapped the second keg. Perfect pours from the first draw. I'll check the o-ring to be sure, but I remember it being a bit wonky when I put the clean keg together before kegging.

 

[day_trippr]

If you ever experience "spitting foam" that's a classic symptom for this O-ring issue.
One must remember that single O-ring is sealing the dip tube to the threaded keg riser, and is sealing the keg post as well (via the bulging O-ring pressing against the inside of the post). Three bits of metal all held gas tight by one puny O-ring. It's amazing it works as well as it does

Last tip: both small O-rings under their respective dip tube flanges are subjected to both compression and frictional forces, and its easy for the two to conspire to tear the ring surface. Avoid installing dry posts - at least wet the bits with some water, if keg lube isn't available...

Cheers!

 

[CadiBrewer]

When I said "wonky", tearing the ring surface is exactly it. I sometimes end up with o-rings that have the outer diameter reduced by perfectly tearing all the way around to become smaller in diameter. They are wet from sanitizing, but keg lube and not overtightening would be better bets.

 

[BigEasy43]

Compare the beer lines between the two kegs: if the suspect one has a lot of foam while the "good" one is running clear, it is possible the suspect keg has a damaged O-ring located under the long dip tube flange. If that O-ring is missing or nicked it can allow CO2 under pressure in the head space to be injected into the beer at the Out post.

Otoh, if the two lines are both running clear, your problem is unlikely to be caused by an O-ring.

Pretty much any "repair" on a pressurized corny keg is nbd: disconnect both lines, lock the PRV open to keep the head space at atmospheric pressure, and then you can replace any parts you desire...

Cheers!

Replaced the O-Ring but no luck still coming out as fast and causing a ton of head. The other keg pours fine with no issues. Anything else I can do?

 

[BigEasy43]

If you ever experience "spitting foam" that's a classic symptom for this O-ring issue.
One must remember that single O-ring is sealing the dip tube to the threaded keg riser, and is sealing the keg post as well (via the bulging O-ring pressing against the inside of the post). Three bits of metal all held gas tight by one puny O-ring. It's amazing it works as well as it does

Last tip: both small O-rings under their respective dip tube flanges are subjected to both compression and frictional forces, and its easy for the two to conspire to tear the ring surface. Avoid installing dry posts - at least wet the bits with some water, if keg lube isn't available...

Cheers!

I only replaced the o-ring on the long dip tube, should I replace the other one as well?

 

[day_trippr]

As I indicated, if you weren't seeing foam in the beer line replacing the - or any - O-ring was unlikely to resolve the problem.

What happens if you switch the beer lines between the two kegs?

Cheers!

 

[BigEasy43]

As I indicated, if you weren't seeing foam in the beer line replacing the - or any - O-ring was unlikely to resolve the problem.

What happens if you switch the beer lines between the two kegs?

Cheers!

So I switched beer lines between the two kegs, but just disconnecting the ball lock quick disconnect and the same thing happened with the keg. So I disconnected the lines from the faucet handles and the keg that was flowing fast was fine on the other faucet. So it seems my issue is with the cheap faucet I bought. I guess sometimes you get what you pay for....