Cereal Mash: Amylase

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goforevercrazywithit

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I'm dipping my toes into the all-grain big kids pool with a cream ale (though it is going to be BIAB style)

Anyway, I've never done a cereal mash before and am trying to learn about the benefits of using amylase instead of 6-row barley.

I work at a distillery and have access to alpha-amylase and gluco-amylase. My cereal mash will contain a couple pounds of corn I've crushed to powder in our mill.

My understanding is that around 10% of total 6-row amount should be used in the cereal mash. My question is would there be any benefit to using alpha-amylase or gluco-amylase in the cereal mash or anywhere in the brew process instead?

Thanks
 
I'm dipping my toes into the all-grain big kids pool with a cream ale (though it is going to be BIAB style)

Anyway, I've never done a cereal mash before and am trying to learn about the benefits of using amylase instead of 6-row barley.

I work at a distillery and have access to alpha-amylase and gluco-amylase. My cereal mash will contain a couple pounds of corn I've crushed to powder in our mill.

My understanding is that around 10% of total 6-row amount should be used in the cereal mash. My question is would there be any benefit to using alpha-amylase or gluco-amylase in the cereal mash or anywhere in the brew process instead?

Thanks

https://byo.com/hops/item/442-cereal-mashing-techniques

I recon you could use your alfa-amylase instead of a part of your grain bill for convertion of the adjunk.

Cheers
 
Is a cereal mash really needed at the homebrew level?

I recall reading that a cereal mash was developed to aid In mashing and lautering at a commercial scale.

I typically cook adjuncts well in water then add straight to the mash.

Sorry if I'm way off base here.
 
If you have access to a heat stable alpha amylase (like Termamyl)...use that in the cereal mash, it works like a charm.
 
What he says. ^

I always boil my flaked corn for 30 minutes in the boil kettle. It takes quite a bit of water, relatively to the amount of corn, like 3-4 times the amount, to get it into the consistency of a thin polenta that doesn't stick to the bottom permanently. Keep stirring while it boils slowly.

I then use that thin polenta as my strike water, adding some cold water to get it to strike temps. Then add the rest of the grist and finish the mash. Works like a charm.

The average DP of your total grist should be above 30-35 for complete conversion. If it's close to that borderline, a long and low mash is preferred.
 
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